Warm running motor
Printed From: CorrectCraftFan.com
Category: Repairs and Maintenance
Forum Name: Boat Maintenance
Forum Discription: Discuss maintenance of your Correct Craft
URL: http://www.CorrectCraftFan.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=41986
Printed Date: April-28-2024 at 5:10pm
Topic: Warm running motor
Posted By: leftseat88
Subject: Warm running motor
Date Posted: September-25-2017 at 12:29am
Evening Everyone,
I have a 96 Sport Nautique GT-40 with a warm/ hot running motor. 160 degrees while running at speed, 180 while idling after that. Yesterday, I saw the water temp approach 200, luckily I was done for the day at the dock. I'm going to replace both the impeller and the thermostat just to be safe as they are old and need to be replaced. Is there a way to know which one is bad, other than a visual inspection on the impeller?
Thanks
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Replies:
Posted By: gt40KS
Date Posted: September-25-2017 at 12:53am
Don't know of a way other than removing both. Thermostat can be tested in boiling water. Make sure it's not sticking open as it cools as well. As inexpensive as they are I would replace it anyway, but testing it may narrow the search for the root problem. Impeller should be obvious. Have you checked or cleaned the sea strainer lately?
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JCCI
1995 Ski Nautique GT40
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Posted By: leftseat88
Date Posted: September-25-2017 at 12:57am
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I will check the strainer on Tuesday and then if that doesn't fix it, I will try the thermostat. Can I replace the impeller while the boat is in the water?
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Posted By: 2001SAN
Date Posted: September-25-2017 at 4:51am
Yup - sure can.
D.
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A little knowledge is a dangerous thing...
2001 Super Air Nautique
1989 Fairline Corniche 31
www.bannrivercruises.co.uk
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Posted By: MrMcD
Date Posted: September-25-2017 at 5:47am
You will also need to check the clamps on each hose from the bottom of your boat to the raw water pump. If there is a air leak it can suck air rather than water. Same is true for the strainer. There is a rubber gasket in the strainer that can fail. I had the same thing happen to my 95 GT40 when I first bought it. I did all the above and changed the raw water pump impeller. Not sure which fixed it for sure but it has been perfect since. I only run the impellers 2 years and then change it. Some will run them longer but that has not worked well for me. Never had one fail on the 2 season plan.
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Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: September-25-2017 at 8:03am
Jason,
Before you throw parts at the problem, I suggest getting a true engine temp with an IR temp gun. Shoot the temp next to the gauge temp sender. BTW, the 160 at speed and then the 180 dropping back to idle I consider normal. When did you get the 200 reading?
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/diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow -
54 Atom
/diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique
64 X55 Dunphy
Keep it original, Pete
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Posted By: leftseat88
Date Posted: September-25-2017 at 9:54am
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I got the 200 reading after running about 20 mins back to the dock. Normal temps during the run, then the temp rose to 200 after I parked at the dock. I shut down the motor immediately. 10 minutes later the temp was back down to 180.
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Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: September-25-2017 at 10:17am
Jason,
Do check the accuracy of your gauge reading with an IR gun but, what you are seeing may be normal. Running hard, temp will go up then when you come back to idle water flow is low so you don't get immediate cooling.
Mark suggested checking all the suction side hose connections. I too recommend that.
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/diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow -
54 Atom
/diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique
64 X55 Dunphy
Keep it original, Pete
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