1963 Correct Craft Atom Skier
Printed From: CorrectCraftFan.com
Category: General Correct Craft Discussion
Forum Name: General Discussion
Forum Discription: Anything Correct Craft
URL: http://www.CorrectCraftFan.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=42154
Printed Date: April-28-2024 at 10:02pm
Topic: 1963 Correct Craft Atom Skier
Posted By: NewOwner
Subject: 1963 Correct Craft Atom Skier
Date Posted: November-16-2017 at 5:45pm
Just purchased and would like to restore. Any YouTube videos or instructions to help me through the process?  
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Replies:
Posted By: Riley
Date Posted: November-16-2017 at 5:50pm
| Decent looking Atom Skier Deluxe. Jr Woody on this site has restored a similar boat. There's a thread on it somewhere. |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: November-16-2017 at 5:50pm
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Don, To my knowledge, there aren't any you tube videos specific to the boat. Jamestown Distributors does have some tutorials on their products and projects they do. Have you ever worked on a wood ply boat before? What are your wood and finishing skills? Congratulations on the purchase and welcome to CCfan. ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: November-16-2017 at 5:51pm
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https://www.jamestowndistributors.com/userportal/main.do" rel="nofollow - Link to Jamestown ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: November-16-2017 at 6:40pm
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Don, Does the engine run? Have you had it in the water to see if the hull is taking on any water? ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: NewOwner
Date Posted: November-16-2017 at 7:50pm
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Thanks for responding. I have never worked on a wood boat before. My woodworking skills are moderate. I know it all needs to be sanded etc. and I was wondering what type of stain and /or polyurethane to use. I do have a neighbor who is a good mechanic. The boat has been in a barn for years and seems to be in good condition. |
Posted By: NewOwner
Date Posted: November-16-2017 at 7:54pm
| Thanks for your response. The engine turns over. I have not had it in the water. The engine and transmission oil both appear to be clean. It has been in storage for a long time and needs some TLC. |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: November-16-2017 at 8:47pm
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Don, The bright work may not need to go down to bare wood requiring stain. See if you can get some close up pictures posted and I may be able to tell if a total strip is needed. Are there any bare spots in the varnish? Regarding the finish, NO poly! Stick with a spar type varnish and look at the more expensive ones with UV protection. Jamestown is a good source. If you start taking hardware off, understand that the screws are R&P/Frearson and NOT Phillips. If you use a Phillips bit or screwdriver, you will bugger up the heads. First, get it running and in the water to see if it takes on any water. ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: juniorwoody
Date Posted: November-16-2017 at 9:03pm
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Just saw this interesting post. Looks like you have a boat there that has a lot of originality. If the plywood and the stem are all workable then a good many coats of varnish should help a lot. Along with sanding, etc. Bruce is right, I have a 1960 Atom Skier with AMC 327 like yours. Mine has fins. It currently is wintering over in CT and I have put a downdraft carb on it much to the dismay of some of our respected members. Have a couple other CC's in the works so I may part ways with the Atom next year. Woodworking on these iconic boats is more my passion and the 1950 Delux Utility we have that is substantially complete needs attention. Best wishes on your fun new project. Don't take it too far and get it out on the water. The old v8's are a gas. ------------- The value of money spent on new adventure far exceeds the value of money saved for the future |
Posted By: NewOwner
Date Posted: November-16-2017 at 10:38pm
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Thanks for your reply. Everything appears to be in good shape.. I noticed you said varnish. I was planning on using polyurethane. Do I need to do some research on that? I am not even sure if I am using this form properly. I hope my posts are correct. |
Posted By: NewOwner
Date Posted: November-16-2017 at 10:45pm
| Thanks. I will take some close-ups. I will be careful of the screw heads also. Thanks for the advice on not using polyurethane. So much to learn. I know the hull is plywood, what about the decks? |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: November-17-2017 at 6:18am
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Don, The deck is ply too. The fake seams are just routed and painted white. ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: NewOwner
Date Posted: November-17-2017 at 8:07am
| Thanks. Later I will have more questions on how to paint the stripes. |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: November-17-2017 at 8:21am
What do the hull seams look like at the chines, keel and stem? Any screws popping? Get some pictures. ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
8122pbrainard wrote:Posted By: NewOwner
Date Posted: November-17-2017 at 8:38am
| Is there a way to get the motor running before I put it in the water? (e.g. water hose) I will post some photos later today of the propeller, shaft, etc that are not attached. |
Posted By: NewOwner
Date Posted: November-17-2017 at 8:40am
| Will check. |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: November-17-2017 at 8:40am
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Don, Pull the hose from the thru hull pick up and attach a garden hose to it. ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: NewOwner
Date Posted: November-17-2017 at 7:08pm
          Some photos of the finish and under the floor. One photo of parts I found on the floor of the boat. Not sure what they are. |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: November-17-2017 at 7:16pm
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Don, Do you have any information about what the PO was doing with the boat? Looking at the deck pictures, it will need to be stripped down to wood and hopefully a bleaching will remove the staining. You'll need to try otherwise it's new wood. You had asked about stain which will be needed going to bare wood. The Mahogany is stained with a filler stain which not only colors the wood but also fills the open grain of the Mahogany. The filler is essential to get a smooth finish. Have you looked for screw popping? ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: Riley
Date Posted: November-17-2017 at 7:18pm
| That looks like a great boat to restore. I've never seen a transmission like that. One of those parts is the shaft log. Was the PO going to replace the bottom? |
Posted By: juniorwoody
Date Posted: November-17-2017 at 7:32pm
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Looks like potential here for sure. Need to see some pictures of the hull. Perhaps the prop took a hit never know. There are extra shafts so that tells maybe something. I think after the grunge is removed there is promis. Elbow grease! This looks like a flywheel forward? ------------- The value of money spent on new adventure far exceeds the value of money saved for the future |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: November-17-2017 at 7:46pm
Bruce, It's a Paragon. ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: November-17-2017 at 10:09pm
Jack, Yes, it is and that makes it the AMC 250 cu.in. Graymarine that developed 135/138 H.P. ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: juniorwoody
Date Posted: November-17-2017 at 10:41pm
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I have not seen Brian around in a while(Fins). When I bought the skier from him he had a 1959 skier with fins that had an unusual engine setup in it. Can't remember what it was. Should he have it restored I think I was quite unique. Seems it steered by turning the prop? ------------- The value of money spent on new adventure far exceeds the value of money saved for the future |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: November-20-2017 at 7:31am
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Don, I was looking at the pictures again you posted of the deck and would like to comment on the one of the fore deck were it looks like sanding was done with a belt sander to remove the finish. Extreme care must be taken if there is any chance of saving the wood. You need to keep in mind that the deck is plywood with a very thin face veneer so you have very little wood to work with. This is not like sanding solid wood! I suggest a chemical strip first then a wood bleach some light sanding and another bleach. If too much wood is removed you will get so close to the glue line that you may start seeing the glue, there won't be enough wood to "take" a filler/stain, the wood bleach won't work and you will be getting real close to or even exposing screw heads. ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: NewOwner
Date Posted: November-20-2017 at 12:57pm
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Thank you for your observations. It appears to me that the previous owner was going to restore the boat. That spot you noticed is the worst. Also, It looks like he painted the bottom of the boat. I am not sure about messing with that., although I would prefer the natural wood. I took the engine cover out of the boat and sanded off the stain. I plan to fill a couple of screw holes and then stain and varnish. Any suggestions about what brand of stain? Also, is there a preferred way to get the white stripe paint out of the grooves? The previous owner had taken out some of the braces near the stern and left them piled in the boat. I am trying to piece them together in their proper places. Kind of like a puzzle. I am also trying to figure out the brass parts in one of the photos. I believe they are all part of the drive shaft. I will do a mock up and photograph and post it later. I am not familiar with the wood bleach process you mentioned and will do some research. Thanks for your help. |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: November-20-2017 at 8:16pm
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Don, The hull bottoms were never "natural" wood and were painted but not with what appears to be ablative bottom paint the PO used. CC's of that era came with enamels typically what would be called "topside" paints. Most likely your 63 would have had a red bottom. Regarding the stain, as I mentioned previously, what you what is a filler stain to both color the wood and fill the open grain of the Mahogany. https://www.jamestowndistributors.com/userportal/show_product.do?pid=134" rel="nofollow - I have always used Interlux. To remove the white paint in the seams, I suggest using a chemical paint stripper. You should be using the paint stripper first anyway. Remember, as I mentioned you have very little wood to sand due to the thinness of the plywood face veneer. Avoid sanding to remove the varnish/finish. ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: November-21-2017 at 7:06am
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Don, You mentioned you need to fill some screw holes. On CC's ply hulls, they used a wood filler and NOT real wood bungs that are typically used on solid wood hulls. I use https://woodworker.com/solvent-free-red-oak-filler-mssu-893-044.asp?search=famowood&searchmode=2" rel="nofollow - Famowood solvent based filler and there's a "trick" to using it. If you just smear it into the screw hole, you will get filler into the surrounding area. After sanding the filler flush, the filler will still be it the open pores in that surrounding area and that filler will never take the filler/stain the same as the other wood so, you will see a "blotch" of a different color at the filled screw hole. I use a mask made from a thin piece of sheet metal (shim stock) that has a hole in it the same size of the screw hole. You place the mask over the screw hole and then apply the Famowood into the hole. The mask prevents the Famowood from spreading into the surrounding wood. ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: NewOwner
Date Posted: November-21-2017 at 10:00am
| Thank you for the information. I followed your post and will probably order that stain. I haven't enough nerve to start stripping the boat yet, I have just been working on the engine cover. I noticed yesterday that the fuel tank has been disconnected. I will have questions about that later. |
Posted By: NewOwner
Date Posted: November-21-2017 at 11:24am
| Thanks for the info and the neat "trick" using a metal mask. |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: November-21-2017 at 7:28pm
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Don, The fuel tank being disconnected I'm sure was for better access to the aft and the rudder port. The port is the piece of brass with 4 holes in it and a packing nut on the top. BTW, the straps to hold the tank in are also missing. CC typically would have used the perforated metal strapping typically used to hang plumbing pipes. How about some pictures of the motor box? Some call them the "dog house"!! ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: November-21-2017 at 8:55pm
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You mentioned never bleaching wood so here's an interesting article on https://www.woodmagazine.com/materials-guide/finishes/get-the-color-out-with-wood-bleach" rel="nofollow - wood bleaches that you may find interesting. I have always used the two part bleach. ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: NewOwner
Date Posted: November-22-2017 at 6:55pm
| Thanks. I happened to see that same article yesterday while surfing the web. |
Posted By: NewOwner
Date Posted: November-22-2017 at 7:08pm
Thanks for the info on the fuel tank. I was not aware of the plumbers strap. Lost in the shuffle somewhere. I am adding a few photos of the engine cover. The before picture is the only one I have. The rest are after I did some sanding. I am ordering some stripper and interlux stain today.  Front, Side, Back and top view.    
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Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: November-22-2017 at 7:23pm
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Don, From the pictures, the dog house is looking good.  ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: Gary S
Date Posted: November-22-2017 at 9:12pm
Most likely has access to better strippers than the ones you use Pete.  Probably something to do with the temperatures you encounter  Maybe Quinner can get you some......------------- http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=1711&sort=&pagenum=1&yrstart=1966&yrend=1970" rel="nofollow - 69 Mustang HM SS 95 Nautique Super Sport |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: November-23-2017 at 8:14am
Gary, Sounds like Don sanded the finish off and didn't need a CQ stripper!
It is possible to sand since the original CC factory finish wasn't more than a couple coats. But, I suggested stripper (and then bleach because of the gray water stains) so the minimum amount of wood is removed. The danger of sanding too much of the face veneer is high and that would leave Don without a "paddle" to go any farther with the original wood. ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: NewOwner
Date Posted: November-23-2017 at 10:43am
| After removing the white stripes, what type of paint should I use for the stripes? Do I stain everything first then add the stripes? Is there a clear coat on top of that? |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: November-23-2017 at 10:56am
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Don, On seams whether fake or "live", I have always used paint just before the final coat of varnish. You are almost to the point of using the paste wood filler to fill the open grain of the Mahogany so if you haven't researched the process yet, spend some time. Here's a https://www.bing.com/videos/search?q=how+to+use+paste+wood+filler&docid=607997221593744282&mid=58165E18FDDEC90A459C58165E18FDDEC90A459C&view=detail&FORM=VIREHT" rel="nofollow - good video on the process part one that explains the basics . Make sure you also view part 2 and 3. ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: Jay SE IN.
Date Posted: November-26-2017 at 12:04am
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Wow! I had a 63 exactly like that one for 13 years. Rambler Fireball 138. They sound like a million dollars! Sold it back to the guy I bought it from. My 3 girls were real little and I needed a boat with more freeboard for safety. Bought a 70 Southwind 20. What a bunch of great memories! Honeymoon at Lake of the Ozarks for one.....You will LOVE IT!!! ------------- "THESE are the good old days" ( thanks, Dad!) |
Posted By: NewOwner
Date Posted: November-26-2017 at 4:47pm
| I hope the project turns out well. I honeymooned at Lake of the Ozarks also. Probably before you were born. Nineteen fifty-seven. :-) |
Posted By: Jay SE IN.
Date Posted: November-26-2017 at 5:23pm
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Close......1955 . Honeymoon 1980. ------------- "THESE are the good old days" ( thanks, Dad!) |
Posted By: NewOwner
Date Posted: December-02-2017 at 3:47pm
Engine cover before and after stain. Will 220 grit sandpaper be fine enough before varnish? 
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Posted By: Jay SE IN.
Date Posted: December-02-2017 at 3:50pm
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No. Mahohany is rather soft. Try 100 grit with the grain. This is really taking me down memory lane! ------------- "THESE are the good old days" ( thanks, Dad!) |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: December-02-2017 at 4:49pm
NO on 100!! In fact, I question the need for any sanding at this point. It shouldn't need any before you get any sealer or varnish on it. ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: Jay SE IN.
Date Posted: December-02-2017 at 4:55pm
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Woops! Holy crap! What I MEANT to say was 400. I had the poor guy going backwards! Sorry. I will keep quiet and just listen! ------------- "THESE are the good old days" ( thanks, Dad!) |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: December-02-2017 at 6:17pm
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Don, Have you purchased any varnish yet? ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: NewOwner
Date Posted: December-02-2017 at 8:07pm
| No. I used Interlux 42 stain purchased from Jamestown Distributors. The directions on the can said to use a single package varnish, whatever that is. |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: December-02-2017 at 9:08pm
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Don, What is meant regarding a "single" package is a single component rather that a two component (two cans) varnish. The two components have some pretty aggressive solvents in them that would lift the filler stain out of the wood, https://www.jamestowndistributors.com/userportal/show_product.do?pid=101&familyName=Z+Spar+Flagship+Varnish" rel="nofollow - I've always had good luck with Flagship but, I'm hearing good things about Jamestown's Total Boat line. ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: NewOwner
Date Posted: December-04-2017 at 12:45am
I read the link about the flagship and also the Total Boat. I might go with the Total Boat just because it is a newer process. Also, I used the Mahogany color for the dark stain but was wondering what the color is called for the lighter stain. (see photo)
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Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: December-04-2017 at 9:09am
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Don, Other colors of filler stains are made by Sandusky. Take a look at the http://www.sanpaco.com/ChrisCraft%20Bilge%20Paint" rel="nofollow - Cordova . I suggest calling Sandusky to see if they have a color chart they can send you. http://www.sanpaco.com/Lyman" rel="nofollow - Lyman 28 may be close too. Keep in mind that there are two factors that affect matching. First is the existing color on the boat has been lightened through the years by sunlight. Second is you will be bleaching the wood so you will be starting with a lighter color. ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: December-04-2017 at 9:17am
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Don, Previously I mentioned sealing the wood after the filler stain and before varnish. You can use https://www.jamestowndistributors.com/userportal/show_product.do?pid=97750&familyName=Pettit+EZ+WoodSealer+2018" rel="nofollow - a wood sealer or reduce your varnish 50% for the fist coat. ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: NewOwner
Date Posted: December-23-2017 at 11:25am
  The engine cover with one coat of varnish. I am planning on painting the grooves before the last coat. Also, while cleaning the bilge area under the motor with tsp mixed with water I noticed some leaking under the boat. Can that be fixed with some caulking on the inside or is it more complicated than that? |
Posted By: NewOwner
Date Posted: December-23-2017 at 11:29am
| The long dark spot is my shadow. |
Posted By: Moody Blue
Date Posted: December-23-2017 at 12:20pm
| Looking good! Make hull repairs from the outside. |
Posted By: NewOwner
Date Posted: December-23-2017 at 1:00pm
| Thanks. |
Posted By: Waldo
Date Posted: December-23-2017 at 2:36pm
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Sweet boat Don. Congrats! Interesting thread. Waldo |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: December-23-2017 at 5:20pm
This is why I was curious about and asked if you could see any screw pops on the hull bottom. Pictures would be great. Looking at your picture that shows the transom, it looks like the PO did do at least a bottom paint job. Do you have any detailed information on what he did? Screw popping means loose ply to frames. Just caulking and painting will not fix the problem. I'm sorry to say if it leaks from the inside out, it will leak worse in the water. ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: December-23-2017 at 5:24pm
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Don, Did you?
What varnish did you end up getting? ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: NewOwner
Date Posted: December-24-2017 at 1:00am
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OK. I'll be out of town for a few days. When I return I'll check for screw popping more closely and take some close-up photos. Thanks for responding. |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: December-24-2017 at 8:38am
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Don, See if you can get a good picture around the keel where you found the leak. Also other areas at seams like at the chines would be great too. You have no information on what the PO was doing and did? ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: NewOwner
Date Posted: January-04-2018 at 5:55pm
| I used Pettit EZwoodsealer #2018 and Total Boat Lust high gloss marine varnish. I used Famwood woodfiller to fill the holes. |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: January-04-2018 at 6:08pm
------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: NewOwner
Date Posted: January-04-2018 at 7:00pm
    Attached are a few photos of the bottom. I did not see any screw pops. It was leaking along the strip of wood down the center of the bottom. Also, I noted a grimy film on most of the bottom. I don't know if has soaked through or is road grime. |
Posted By: NewOwner
Date Posted: January-04-2018 at 7:13pm
  This is a before and after of the bad spot where the PO had sanded. I have started stripping with a chemical stripper and it appears to be OK. |
Posted By: 81nautique
Date Posted: January-04-2018 at 7:17pm
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The deck cleaned up well, Make sure you use the bleach to even off that water mark before you apply new stain. It should blend very well with an application or two of bleach. Luckily that's your dark stained area so it shouldn't show once you're done. As for the bottom, this is a plywood bottom right? Not planked? |
Posted By: NewOwner
Date Posted: January-04-2018 at 7:23pm
| At some point it looks like I will have to either turn the boat over or put it on some stands. I was wondering if I should pull the engine out and turn the boat over or can I lift the boat by hooking onto the motor and the two tie-down hooks at the front and back. If I pull the engine it looks like it will be a lot easier to clean around inside the boat. |
Posted By: NewOwner
Date Posted: January-04-2018 at 7:25pm
| Yes, it is plywood. |
Posted By: 81nautique
Date Posted: January-04-2018 at 7:32pm
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I didn't have time to reply to this thread when you first posted it. That is a neat find but I think the Previous owner may have started pulling the hardware off the bottom because of the leak issue you are seeing. If that's the case and it's a leaker you really only have a few options. 1. Flip it over and replace the bottom now before you go any further with the topsides refinish. Most time consuming and expensive but correct way to do it 2. flip it and apply a fiberglass cloth over the old bottom. Temporary repair that will buy you some time. 3. Put it back together and, put it in the water and see how bad it leaks, run it fo rthe summer and decide what to do next winter. If it 's a plywood boat and it's leaking at the keel I don't think there's much you can do from the inside to repair it or seal it up. Maybe some 5200 along all the seams will get you through the summer but it's a bandaid. Good chance that if it's been wet for a while that the plywood is delaminating and will eventually need to be replaced. Whatever you decide to do, the bottom is not a death sentence it just means you will need to spend some time and money to get it back sea worthy. You'll probably find the stem is soft too but that's a wood Correct Crafts archilles heel, They all fail. The good side is a plywood bottom will take less time and cost much less money than a planked bottom. Some one took it apart and stopped for some reason, but It's a cool boat and worth saving Good luck, we'll be watching and here to help |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: January-04-2018 at 7:33pm
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Don, You have some problems at the keel. I'd say the PO gave the bottom a "quick and dirty" paint/caulk job without any attention to seam integrity. You can see where the seam at the keel is leaking. The keel is made up with a wide inner keel and a narrow outer keel. This forms the rabbet where the bottom ply is fastened. The ply is screwed to the keel with bedding compound. This bedding compound is a linseed oil/talc mix that dries out with age allowing water to enter the seam. The big question is how much rot the water intrusion created in the ply and the keel. Can you push on the ply at the keel and detect any movement? Again, are there any screw pops or loose screw fills? ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: January-04-2018 at 10:58pm
Don, You have lifting rings. One is in the fore deck and the other in the aft deck. They are for lifting. ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: Gary S
Date Posted: January-05-2018 at 12:44am
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How about some Flex Tape. I saw something on TV that you could even saw your boat in half and put it back together with it........ ------------- http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=1711&sort=&pagenum=1&yrstart=1966&yrend=1970" rel="nofollow - 69 Mustang HM SS 95 Nautique Super Sport |
Posted By: NewOwner
Date Posted: January-05-2018 at 9:30am
Thanks. I did not know if they were for lifting or just for tie-up. |
Posted By: NewOwner
Date Posted: January-05-2018 at 9:32am
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Posted By: NewOwner
Date Posted: January-05-2018 at 9:38am
I don't see any popped screws and when I push on the bottom it feels solid. However, it is hard to put much pressure on it while lying on my back underneath the trailer. |
Posted By: skutsch
Date Posted: January-08-2018 at 4:57pm
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Great project. Keep the updates coming! ------------- Our http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=4669" rel="nofollow - 98 Sport Nautique My Dad's 63 Ski N |
Posted By: NewOwner
Date Posted: January-08-2018 at 10:32pm
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The paint stripper is working very slowly in this cold weather so I decided to pull the engine and see if I can get it running, and clean the inside of the boat. I first need to figure out how to do that. I will post some pics when I get started. I looked at a chain lift contraption at a store today but wasn't sure which one to purchase. They had them from .5 ton to 5.0 ton. I was wondering if it would be unwise to use a power washer to clean the inside? Any suggestions will be appreciated. Also, I have the original manual on the motor but nothing on the boat. I read on a different thread that there may not have been a manual on the boat and and/or a lot of information was destroyed in a fire at Select Craft years ago. If anyone has one I would appreciate a copy. |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: January-09-2018 at 8:10am
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Don, A 1 ton hoist is plenty to pull the engine. There should be two attachment points on the engine for a short chain. If not, eye bolts can be swapped out for a couple intake manifold bolts. I would not use a pressure washer since you would be forcing water into joints. In fact, at this point I suggest not using any water for cleaning the bilge. The pictures you posted of the bottom show where water has already gotten in around the keel from when you washed the bilge before. This is evident from the darker color of the ablative bottom paint at the keel. Short of removing the ply bottom there is a possibility of a "back yard hack" temporary patch but this would require the area at the keel to be completely dry. The patch would involve injecting CPES all along the joint at the inner keel and the ply bottom in hopes of saturating the joint. Keep in mind as mentioned, this would not be a proper fix but just a patch. A proper fix involves flipping the hull, removing all the ply, repairing any rot and rebedding the ply but it's time consuming. http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - Take a look at my diary and the picture of my Atom down to the frame There isn't and never was a manual on the boat. It's good you have the engine manual. Is it complete with rebuild specs? Is there anything specific you were looking for on the boat? EDIT: I went back and looked at your engine picture. It already has the lifting eyes on it.  ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: NewOwner
Date Posted: January-09-2018 at 7:46pm
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Nothing specific but I have a few pieces the PO had removed and I am not sure where they belong. Also, I looked at the pictures of your boat frame. Very helpful. I have a better idea of how it fits together. I might do the Hack you mentioned. I would like to get it into the water this summer and then something better later. I attached a photo of the motor manual. On page 23 it mentions there was a technical manual (148 pages and 190 illustrations) form no. GM-2085. I was wondering if that might be available somewhere. The one I have provides all the technical information I need right now.  Another question: With the motor removed is one able to turn the boat over to work on the bottom or is it too heavy? Thanks for all your insight and experience. p.s. I am thinking it would be easier to start the engine while it is in the boat to see if it works. (e.g attach a garden hose, battery and gas tank) all of the gage's would be attached. What do you think? |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: January-09-2018 at 9:00pm
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Don, Get the engine out of the boat. I suggest building an engine stand out of some 2X to set the engine on and then, you can run it on the stand. Flipping the bare hull isn't that big of a job but planning is needed. If you do decide to flip it, we can talk about it later You mention it being cold. Is there any chance of getting the hull into a heated area? I mention this because of the water you got down into the keel/bottom seam. If there is any chance of the "hack" patch to work, the wood as mentioned must be dry and a heated area would help. ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: January-09-2018 at 9:10pm
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Don, The engine stand or cradle is pretty easy to build. https://www.bing.com/videos/search?q=chrysler+331+marine+engine+running+on+stand&&view=detail&mid=236F43357DBFCE30D4A1236F43357DBFCE30D4A1&FORM=VRDGAR" rel="nofollow - Chrysler 331 marine running on home made 2X stand. ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: Gary S
Date Posted: January-09-2018 at 10:35pm
I know Pete won't agree but I'd get it going in the boat. Pull the engine and your committed. Then the might as well could take hold. Get it running try it out and go from there,right now your in love with the idea of having an old wood boat. You two might not even be compatible- the separation could be messy with the only real winner being the next owner. ------------- http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=1711&sort=&pagenum=1&yrstart=1966&yrend=1970" rel="nofollow - 69 Mustang HM SS 95 Nautique Super Sport |
Posted By: NewOwner
Date Posted: January-10-2018 at 1:15pm
| Very interesting. Thanks. (Personal experience or psychology 101 ?) |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: January-11-2018 at 9:28am
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Don, Running the engine in the boat is certainly an option and in fact leaving the hull as is and putting the boat in the water is an option as well. You may be able to get a few years of running it as is too. I know of a member with an Atom that literally screwed boards to the hull at the chines with caulking under them to stop some pretty bad leaks. I know he got a few summers out of it and in fact may still be running it that way!! Continue on with the great job you are doing so far on the deck brightwork, get the engine running and see what happens on the water. ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: NewOwner
Date Posted: January-11-2018 at 7:44pm
| Thanks. The weather was 60 degrees today and is dropping to 21 degrees tonight. Hard to get much done on the boat. However, I have a smaller heated area where I have been working on the motor cover. (dog house) I am planning on painting the stripes tomorrow. Will post a picture in a couple of days. One of the videos I watched showed removing the blue tape soon after the stripes were painted. Another video showed waiting until it dries. Any preference? |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: January-11-2018 at 7:51pm
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Don, I don't consider blue painters tape to be a good tape to use for any masking on a boat. https://www.jamestowndistributors.com/userportal/show_product.do?pid=2146&familyName=3M+218+Fine+Line+Masking+Tape" rel="nofollow - 3M fine line is the only tape I use. ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: January-11-2018 at 7:52pm
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Oh, remove the tape after painting and before it sets up. ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: Gary S
Date Posted: January-11-2018 at 8:47pm
Personal experience. I've had alot of fun and some great deals over the years  ------------- http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=1711&sort=&pagenum=1&yrstart=1966&yrend=1970" rel="nofollow - 69 Mustang HM SS 95 Nautique Super Sport |
Posted By: NewOwner
Date Posted: January-17-2018 at 10:49pm
I have some questions about the place where one steps onto the boat. (not sure what it's called) (see photo) It looks pretty good but it is somewhat brittle. Is there a chemical solution to softening it? Does it need to be? Is it molded as one piece, or can the backing be separated and attached to a new piece of backing? Or, is there an after market step that can be purchased?
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Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: January-17-2018 at 10:55pm
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Don, You need new step pads. I'll see if I can find the member that was making them way back. Don't know if he still is. Is the engine running yet? I'd be more concerned with it at this point. ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: Gary S
Date Posted: January-17-2018 at 11:58pm
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Here you go- https://www.ebay.com/itm/Correct-Craft-Step-Pads-Vintage-style-includes-4-pads/182749692362?hash=item2a8cbb01ca:g:zesAAOSwbtVZSz2t" rel="nofollow - ebay link ------------- http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=1711&sort=&pagenum=1&yrstart=1966&yrend=1970" rel="nofollow - 69 Mustang HM SS 95 Nautique Super Sport |
Posted By: NewOwner
Date Posted: January-18-2018 at 12:33am
Thanks. And no It has been to cold to get the engine running. Spring is coming. 
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Posted By: NewOwner
Date Posted: January-18-2018 at 12:37am
| Another question. The chrome is in good shape but a few pieces have some tiny bumps. Is there any way to smooth them out without re-chroming? |
Posted By: NewOwner
Date Posted: January-26-2018 at 12:00am
I had a warm day so I took a closer look at the transom. ( See photos) I applied some paint stripper and It appears the PO had put some sort of filler under the water line.  
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Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: January-26-2018 at 8:04am
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Don, The PO fiber glassed the bottom. I'm sorry to say that the method does not have a good track record. One layer of glass does not have the strength to hold loose seams together so if there's any movement the glass fractures allowing water to enter. The worst long term is glassing rots the wood at an accelerated pace. Even without any fracturing of the glass allowing water in from the outside, a boats bilge is wet so water enters from the inside keeping the wood damp. Some call glassing "the kiss of death" for a wood boat. The glassing explains why all the hardware was removed from the bottom of the boat. Again, what do you know about the PO and his wood boat knowledge? ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: NewOwner
Date Posted: January-26-2018 at 9:44am
I didn't know the previous owner. ( possibly deceased now) I purchased the boat from someone who found it in a barn. I will strip the rest of the bottom to see how much has been covered with filler. In the meantime I have been working on the engine cover, 
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Posted By: Riley
Date Posted: January-26-2018 at 10:06am
| It's still a nice boat. Probably a much bigger project than you realized, but all the hardware being removed from the bottom is an indication that someone knew the bottom needed to be replaced. You can patch it up and put all the hardware back on so you can use it for the short term. It's still a nice boat worthy of restoration as its pretty complete and original The engine cover looks great!. |
Posted By: NewOwner
Date Posted: January-26-2018 at 10:24am
| Thanks. And yes, it's turning out to be a much larger project than expected. However, I'm in it for the long haul. Appreciate your informative comments. |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: January-26-2018 at 10:28am
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Don, I agree with Bruce. Patch the area you ground down at the transom and run the boat. In the future it will need a new bottom. ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: Riley
Date Posted: January-26-2018 at 10:35am
Here's a link for new step pads. The seller is a CCF member. I bought a set of these a few months ago and they are excellent. https://www.ebay.com/itm/Correct-Craft-Step-Pads-Vintage-style-includes-4-pads/182749692362?hash=item2a8cbb01ca:g:zesAAOSwbtVZSz2t&vxp=mtr" rel="nofollow - https://www.ebay.com/itm/Correct-Craft-Step-Pads-Vintage-style-includes-4-pads/182749692362?hash=item2a8cbb01ca:g:zesAAOSwbtVZSz2t&vxp=mtr |