Leaking Cylinder
Printed From: CorrectCraftFan.com
Category: Repairs and Maintenance
Forum Name: Engine Repair
Forum Discription: Engine problems and solutions
URL: http://www.CorrectCraftFan.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=42189
Printed Date: April-26-2024 at 2:04pm
Topic: Leaking Cylinder
Posted By: jerry.nichols@m
Subject: Leaking Cylinder
Date Posted: November-30-2017 at 10:47am
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Does this sound right? I took my '07 211, 5.7, 330hp (550 hours) in to be winterized and I asked them to look at the engine which was idling a little bit rough. Engine smoothed out at 100rpm and higher. I was thinking bad gas, or gas filter. Boat shop said number 7 cylinder had 90% leakage. Need to pull motor and send to machine shop. Looking at $4-5k to fix. Boat has been maintained regularly. Oil change about every 50 hours. Boat has never given me an ounce of problems before. Two questions, does this sound right and should it be good as new when finished? |
Replies:
Posted By: Gary S
Date Posted: November-30-2017 at 11:05am
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If it were me I would have asked them where that 90% is going- exhaust, intake or crankcase. Might be wise to get a second opinion don't you think ? ------------- http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=1711&sort=&pagenum=1&yrstart=1966&yrend=1970" rel="nofollow - 69 Mustang HM SS 95 Nautique Super Sport |
Posted By: KENO
Date Posted: November-30-2017 at 11:29am
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I guess from this you can assume they did a leakdown test on the engine. 90% leakage would mean you're driving around in a v7 with one dead cylinder just going along for the ride. How's it run otherwise, like when it smooths out above 1000 rpm all the way up to full throttle. I'd ask the shop for more detail and like Gary said, get a second opinion from someplace else |
Posted By: jerry.nichols@m
Date Posted: November-30-2017 at 12:03pm
| Typo in my original post: engine runs smooth from 1000rpm and higher. |
Posted By: Duane in Indy
Date Posted: November-30-2017 at 12:42pm
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Not enough info Like said above "where is it leaking?" Second opinion for sure, and be there when they leak it. May just need an upper end fix. ------------- Keep it as original as YOU want it 1978 Mustang (modified) |
Posted By: baitkiller
Date Posted: November-30-2017 at 12:59pm
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90% is catastrophic. If 90% is true than the chances are overwhelming that work will be needed to both top and bottom. Further testing is a waste of time. Its toast. Me? I would tear it down and fix it myself. but you aren't me. MMotors has a screaming deal on a NEW, not rebuilt long block/ $2900 Just drop this off at the shop and tell them to change it. http://www.michiganmotorz.com/350ci-vortec-base-marine-engine-1996-current-replacement-p-109.html You are also (likely) going to need exhaust manifolds and risers. #7 tells me it was water in the manifold entering through the exhaust valve. 7 is is the furthest downhill in a ski boat. ------------- Jesus was a bare-footer............. |
Posted By: Duane in Indy
Date Posted: November-30-2017 at 1:55pm
Really Guess that rules out: carbon under exhaust valve, burnt valve stuck valve, ect Stand by my "second opinion autopsy" idea before pulling an engine and disassembling cause so and so's mechanic said "90%" You could get lucky here, but not always Removing and replacing is my last option JMO ------------- Keep it as original as YOU want it 1978 Mustang (modified) |
baitkiller wrote:Posted By: baitkiller
Date Posted: November-30-2017 at 2:01pm
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Let me clear that up a little. The heads coming off anyway and then you'll know for sure. You know the heads coming off so why go chasing after silly crap? It is now time to strip and inspect not spend $110 an hour for some AMI graduate mouth breather at the dealership to make his best guess. Better? ------------- Jesus was a bare-footer............. |
Posted By: baitkiller
Date Posted: November-30-2017 at 2:02pm
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(I said if that 90% is true) ------------- Jesus was a bare-footer............. |
Posted By: rolleronariver
Date Posted: November-30-2017 at 2:04pm
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I wouldn't assume that it's toast yet. Like several guys said, find out where it is leaking from, a dropped valve could cause 90% leakage too. I do think you would hear some noise though if the valve was that messed up. I also think you would notice a power drop even above 1,000rpm. Just my $.02. I'm not a master mechanic but I do like working on things and I've seen valve and head issues cause things like this. I also agree that the number 7 cylinder could be water damage since 7 and 8 or the two lowest cylinders. ------------- 92 Sport nautique |
Posted By: Duane in Indy
Date Posted: November-30-2017 at 2:09pm
Yep. ------------- Keep it as original as YOU want it 1978 Mustang (modified) |
Posted By: phatsat67
Date Posted: November-30-2017 at 2:46pm
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I 100% never trust anyone who says the first option is IT'S JUNK BUILD NEW MOTOR. |
Posted By: MrMcD
Date Posted: November-30-2017 at 3:42pm
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Pull the number 7 spark plug and examine it. Post pictures here we can help. Do a compression check on this cylinder and see what you have. A leak down will tell you more but if you have 160+ compression the problem is elsewhere. Vortex engines have high compression. ------------- |
Posted By: 63 Skier
Date Posted: November-30-2017 at 4:02pm
Jerry, some great advice above. What is your winter storage plan? I ask because if you have the dealer winterize it, then store it yourself, it would allow you to get it to someone for a compression test or do it yourself. Like others I think it's worth taking some time or some money to look further into the problem. Pulling the engine and rebuilding will solve the problem for 4-5 thousand at the dealer, whether there was a terminal problem or not!  ------------- '63 American Skier - '98 Sport Nautique |
Posted By: SNobsessed
Date Posted: November-30-2017 at 8:15pm
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It could possibly be they meant that cyl was at 90% (10% leakage) which would be a bit more believable on such a new engine. If so, it's not going to leave you stranded anytime soon. ------------- “Beer is proof that God loves us and wants us to be happy.” Ben Franklin |
Posted By: 63 Skier
Date Posted: November-30-2017 at 8:50pm
Can't imagine they would be quoting a removal and rebuild if #7 was 10% down in compression. ------------- '63 American Skier - '98 Sport Nautique |
Posted By: Bri892001
Date Posted: December-01-2017 at 9:11pm
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Would an engine with mechanical damage and serious loss of compression smooth out over 1,000 rpms?? Does it smooth out over 1,000 in neutral, under a load, or both? I'd definitely be ruling out simple ignition problems like cap, rotor etc. before pulling the block. |
Posted By: 63 Skier
Date Posted: December-01-2017 at 9:27pm
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In my experience 7 cylinder engines can be remarkably smooth, I've even been fooled on a V-Twin tractor engine for a short time not realizing was running on one cylinder. RPMs mask a lot of things. I believe Joe might have experience with running a 7 cylinder engine as well. ------------- '63 American Skier - '98 Sport Nautique |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: December-02-2017 at 10:36am
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I hope Jerry comes back with more information. ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: jerry.nichols@m
Date Posted: December-05-2017 at 11:56am
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Thank you all for helping me with my issue. I am going to the boat shop this Saturday (its about 200 miles away) with questions I've collected from you all from this forum. I will return and post my finds. Please stay tuned and thank you all again for helping me. |
Posted By: baitkiller
Date Posted: December-05-2017 at 7:15pm
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Thank you Jerry for not whisping away into the vapor. We are genuinely interested so please do come back and enlighten us with your findings. John ------------- Jesus was a bare-footer............. |
Posted By: jbear
Date Posted: December-06-2017 at 1:52am
+1.... john ------------- "Loud pipes save lives" AdamT sez "I'm Canadian and a beaver lover myself"... |
Posted By: Hollywood
Date Posted: December-06-2017 at 2:10am
| Solid advice there jbear. Knew you'd be along shorty, can't pass up an engine repair thread... |
Posted By: sport1999
Date Posted: December-06-2017 at 10:33am
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Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: December-06-2017 at 10:38am
Jerry, I too want to thank you for not forgetting about us. We all have seen some come on with a problem, we try to help offering advice and then hear nothing back. It's disappointing since I and I'm sure others would like to hear if we were able to help. ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: jbear
Date Posted: December-06-2017 at 11:41pm
as you know...I understand none of what these guys are talking about....but I sure like the way they say it. john ------------- "Loud pipes save lives" AdamT sez "I'm Canadian and a beaver lover myself"... |
Posted By: jerry.nichols@m
Date Posted: December-12-2017 at 5:21pm
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Hi Guys, I'm back from the dealer with some more info: 1. I independently (second opinion) confirmed close to zero compression on #8 cylinder (not number 7 as previously posted). 2. Mechanic pulled valve covers and found a tuliped valve. Mechanic said this was most likely cause by overheating. I'm a bit surprised at this as I'm a pretty conscious gauge watcher, not just upon start up, but while under way as well.) 3. Oil was not dirty at all 4. Mechanic stated that since #8 cylinder had no compression, it was just going along for the ride thanks to the other 7 cylinders. 5. Mechanic said we still need to pull the motor and have it machined to re-surface the cylinder before replacing the tuliped valve. 6. Mechanic said I may want to consider re-surfacing all 8 cylinder as the incremental cost to do all of them is fairly minor since the motor is out already. 7. I've asked the shop to write up the complete estimate which he is doing now, but the "rough" estimated is now $1500-$2000. Depending on the cost, I am leaning toward resurfacing all 8 cylinders. Does this sound like a good idea? What do you all think of this information? |
Posted By: rolleronariver
Date Posted: December-12-2017 at 5:45pm
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Sounds like this guys knows more about engines then the first guy. That price doesn't sound horrible if he's doing all of the work but I do all of my own work so I could be wrong. ------------- 92 Sport nautique |
Posted By: baitkiller
Date Posted: December-12-2017 at 5:51pm
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I think that sounds cheap. I also don't buy the overheat but whatevs...I still think youll find a corroded valve stem / seat as cause of the bad valve and glazed cylinder walls. Was the pushrod bent? 150 ring set 250 gasket set Big and small end bearing sets? ~75 ish? Plus valve job. That has to be >500 these days right?. and labor. Ill wait for the others. Thanks for the update. ------------- Jesus was a bare-footer............. |
Posted By: 81nautique
Date Posted: December-12-2017 at 7:15pm
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From personal experience I have seen tuliped valves on a fuel injected motor that had a bad high pressure fuel pump. Run em hard, it leans out and proceeds to melt valves. Your cooling system may still be functioning properly but this is a lean fuel condition. It happens quick. Your boat should go into limp mode if it's overheating but it's not. I am certain this is fuel related. If the motor has to come out do all 8 holes, get the heads repaired and put it all back together but don't run it until you thoroughly check the fuel system. Price for all that work sounds very reasonable. |