engine advice
Printed From: CorrectCraftFan.com
Category: Repairs and Maintenance
Forum Name: Engine Repair
Forum Discription: Engine problems and solutions
URL: http://www.CorrectCraftFan.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=42218
Printed Date: April-28-2024 at 4:02pm
Topic: engine advice
Posted By: prski
Subject: engine advice
Date Posted: December-12-2017 at 8:51am
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I'm having the stringers and floor replaced on my 86 Nautique. The Ford 351 engine has 800 hours and 2 summers ago the compression test was very good. No visible leaks or issues but wondering if there is anything I should do maintenance wise while the engine is out of the boat. thank you ------------- paul |
Replies:
Posted By: 63 Skier
Date Posted: December-12-2017 at 12:06pm
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Assuming all normal seasonal and preventive maintenance has been done well, there's absolutely nothing you need to do on an 800 hour well cared for motor with good compression. You can put it right back in and run it for another thousand hours with no problem. Having said that, if you have the itch to add some power to it, with some upgraded components you can bring that up to the 300 horsepower level, simple to do but cost a few bucks. ------------- '63 American Skier - '98 Sport Nautique |
Posted By: Smithfamily
Date Posted: December-12-2017 at 12:07pm
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Good question. 800 hours is not much, but it is out of the boat and ideal opportunity. Lets see what the experts say. Paint it is a given? Pictures?? ------------- Js |
Posted By: KENO
Date Posted: December-12-2017 at 12:20pm
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You might consider a new damper plate since if it's the original it's 32 years old and they seem to fail at the least convenient times. I don't think anybody can give you a good answer as to number of hours it will last. Yours could last a lot longer, then again it could die a week after you get the boat back in the water It would be a lot easier with the engine and transmission out of the boat and it's around a hundred bucks and a little of your time |
Posted By: 75 Tique
Date Posted: December-12-2017 at 12:39pm
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Standard Disclaimer: I am not an engine guy. By what I've heard, damper plate is a good idea. But my main contribution is "if it ain't broke, don't fix it" Can't tell you how many times I've read on here: "My boat was working OK, but I decided to (insert verb) my (insert engine component) and when I put it back together, it wouldn't start. Any ideas?" ------------- _____________ “So, how was your weekend?” “Well, let me see…sun burn, stiff neck, screwed up back, assorted aches and pains….yup, my weekend was great, thanks for asking.” |
Posted By: prski
Date Posted: December-12-2017 at 4:15pm
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i'm having trouble uploading a pic of my engine but will keep trying. thanks for the advice, I really appreciate it! ------------- paul |
Posted By: SNobsessed
Date Posted: December-12-2017 at 9:59pm
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I would replace the rear main seal since it is so old. Rubber age hardens, so even though it doen't have that many hrs, it could start leaking anytime. Might as well take care of it while it is easy to get to, just my 2 cents. ------------- “Beer is proof that God loves us and wants us to be happy.” Ben Franklin |
Posted By: KENO
Date Posted: December-12-2017 at 10:18pm
I thought I'd mention the rear main when I mentioned the damper plate but I was undecided and figured I'd see if somebody else mentioned it It almost falls into the "if it ain't broke don't fix it" category, but being a 1 piece seal it's easier than a 2 piece. Using that logic the front seal is the same age as the rear and fairly easy also, 
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SNobsessed wrote:Posted By: prski
Date Posted: December-13-2017 at 10:37am
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I love my old nautique but I don’t know much about the mechanics of it so I really appreciate all of the advice. I’ll take it and get this done while the engine is out. Many thanks! ------------- paul |
Posted By: JoeinNY
Date Posted: December-13-2017 at 11:02am
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I don't know about that seal replacement stuff... if it isn't leaking now I wouldn't replace it. I have seen more new seals leak than I have seen randomly start to leak from ageing of rubber. If there are leaks I would be fixing them... if not you might create a bunch of new ones. ------------- http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=1477 - 1983 Ski Nautique 2001 1967 Mustang 302 "Decoy" http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cO5MkcBXBBs - Holeshot Video |
Posted By: KENO
Date Posted: December-13-2017 at 11:46am
That's what I was getting at with the seals. You might make things worse I'd leave it alone, somebody else might not. |
Posted By: MourningWood
Date Posted: December-13-2017 at 1:47pm
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Since they're very easy to inspect while motor is out, might inspect the hoses for cracking/hardness. If you have the oil-drain hose (long red one) take a good look at that, esp. down near oil pan. Same thing: hardness/cracking. If the raw water impeller isn't part of annual maintenance, it's easy too. ------------- 1994 Ski Nautique "Riot" 1964 Dunphy X-55 "One 'N Dun" 'I measured twice, cut three times, and it's still too short!" |
Posted By: prski
Date Posted: December-13-2017 at 2:54pm
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how much more difficult would repairing a seal leak be if it happens after the motor is back in the boat? ------------- paul |
Posted By: prski
Date Posted: December-13-2017 at 2:54pm
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sound advice, thank you ------------- paul |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: December-13-2017 at 3:26pm
It has been attempted in the boat but to me, the engine needs to come back out. ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: TRBenj
Date Posted: December-13-2017 at 3:32pm
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^^for rear main, I agree. Not something I would attempt in-Boat. Timing cover seal is nbd. |
Posted By: Gary S
Date Posted: December-13-2017 at 4:55pm
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In this case I would leave it well alone. However if I had one that needed changing I would give it a go to do it in the boat. They didnt use to pull the engine on a car or truck to do it, they'd pull the trans. They even made a tool to change the older rope seal with the engine in place and I believe the two piece ones could be changed in place too. Obviously those could not be done since you have to drop the pan but a one piece I'd give it a try. ------------- http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=1711&sort=&pagenum=1&yrstart=1966&yrend=1970" rel="nofollow - 69 Mustang HM SS 95 Nautique Super Sport |
Posted By: JoeinNY
Date Posted: December-13-2017 at 5:06pm
It just depends on the tools and workspace you have available at the time, with an overhead chain lift and engine stand close by you can pull an engine and reinstall it in well under two hours round trip - in which case I would rather do the seal with the engine upside down in front of me than with me upside down in the bilge. ------------- http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=1477 - 1983 Ski Nautique 2001 1967 Mustang 302 "Decoy" http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cO5MkcBXBBs - Holeshot Video |
Posted By: TRBenj
Date Posted: December-13-2017 at 5:15pm
| Depends on the boat also. Getting the oil pan off a deep vee is a non starter for the seal styles held captive in a main cap. |
Posted By: Gary S
Date Posted: December-13-2017 at 5:46pm
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I remember Dad pulling the motor to change the seal in the Shamrock. Shade tree hobbyists we are,we had to use a tree because that thing sits so high on the trailer we had nothing else that would reach. At the time we always talked about doing the Florida boat, leaving it in the water and using a davit to do the heavy work. Plan is still the same with the other 'rock. ------------- http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=1711&sort=&pagenum=1&yrstart=1966&yrend=1970" rel="nofollow - 69 Mustang HM SS 95 Nautique Super Sport |
Posted By: KENO
Date Posted: December-13-2017 at 7:27pm
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I've done a seal in the boat and it wasn't bad. It was a mid 80's SN with a 1 piece seal like prski has. It was a friends boat with around 3000 hours at the time After unhooking the shaft coupling, we jacked the back of the engine up till it was level slid the transmission off, took off the bellhousing,damper and flywheel and there was that leaky seal staring right at us.(I'd call this a quick overview and not a step by step guide) Did the seal laying down on the floor only slightly contorted. 2 piece, I wouldn't even consider it. |
Posted By: Riley
Date Posted: December-13-2017 at 7:35pm
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I can't think of any good reason to mess with a rear main seal that is not leaking. The dampner plate is a toss up. How often do they go? We bought a very similar engine 2 years ago from a CCF member and the only thing we did was replace all the hoses, belts and impeller prior to installing it in its new boat. |
Posted By: KENO
Date Posted: December-13-2017 at 8:27pm
Here's a thread with some inspiration for ya' Gary. http://www.correctcraftfan.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=40147&title=cutless-bearing-rr-tilt-engine" rel="nofollow - inspiration |