Starter
Printed From: CorrectCraftFan.com
Category: Repairs and Maintenance
Forum Name: Engine Repair
Forum Discription: Engine problems and solutions
URL: http://www.CorrectCraftFan.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=42505
Printed Date: April-28-2024 at 6:51pm
Topic: Starter
Posted By: jterr
Subject: Starter
Date Posted: March-15-2018 at 1:04am
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Someone tell me how to connect one of the remote 2 clip starter buttons to my 83 351 that I pulled out of boat. Want to check compression, but not getting any power .. What I did + battery to solenoid + - battery to nut on block 1 clip on the starter side of solenoid 1 clip to little screw with a S on it ???? |
Replies:
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: March-15-2018 at 7:21am
John, I think this is the problem. You need to feed 12 volts to the solenoid coil so connect the button switch to ether the battery + or the solenoid battery +.terminal Also, make sure the solenoid is grounded. ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
jterr wrote:Posted By: jterr
Date Posted: March-15-2018 at 7:22am
| Gotit |
Posted By: KENO
Date Posted: March-15-2018 at 8:06am
Just Pete Do what he said and it should work I hope you weren't up all night sitting by the computer holding your breath waiting for an answer  |
Posted By: jterr
Date Posted: March-15-2018 at 9:50am
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I hope you weren't up all night sitting by the computer holding your breath waiting for an answer [/QUOTE] No, had to get up at 4 turn water on my garden for the freeze we didn't have..LOL |
Posted By: Duane in Indy
Date Posted: March-15-2018 at 9:56am
This should help. Second illustration shows whats going on inside.   ------------- Keep it as original as YOU want it 1978 Mustang (modified) |
Posted By: KENO
Date Posted: March-15-2018 at 8:09pm
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With Duane's picture above, hook the switch between the 12v in from battery terminal (big lug) and the 12v from the key terminal. That would be the "s" terminal. Then.............push the button |
Posted By: jterr
Date Posted: March-15-2018 at 9:51pm
| Taking starter out to have checked as it wouldn't do anything hook straight to battery. I t looks pretty bad so might as well get it checked. |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: March-16-2018 at 8:53am
John, Where will you be taking the starter? Hopefully an "auto electric" shop that repairs them and not the auto supply that simply tests them and then sells you a new one!!! The typical repair involves cleaning up the commutator, brushes and bushings. Also, if new is needed say due to an open in the armature, be aware of the rotation with you RR engine. ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: jterr
Date Posted: March-16-2018 at 9:42am
Roger that, I worked at a "parts house" last place I would go. Actually the guy I'm taking to it is a CC SN owner and knows all about the marine starters. |
Posted By: jterr
Date Posted: March-25-2018 at 2:25pm
Got starter back (did fine at shop), hooked up as above only get a click in the solenoid. I guess this bad now??? |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: March-25-2018 at 2:57pm
John, If it worked at the shop, it should work on the engine. What did they find? Did they open it up? Commutator cleaned up? New brushes? I think you had better get the VOM out and see if the starter is getting the volts. Yes, the start relay clicks but are the contacts getting the volts through the relay?? ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: jterr
Date Posted: March-25-2018 at 5:19pm
Yes he tore apart replaced brushes, did some sand blasting as it was rusted up pretty bad inside. How would I use the meter to check . I think best thing just get a new solenoid. Still looks like boat sunk. |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: March-25-2018 at 5:31pm
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John, You want to check for 12 volts going into the relay and then out to the starter. Ground your black probe on the VOM, use the red to confirm the 12 at the big stud where the cable from the battery is connected, press the remote started button to energize the relay coil and then with the red probe again check for 12 at the big stud that the cable to the starter is connected to. When checking for voltage, you should also note the voltage drop across the relay. If there's any drop, then the contacts in the relay are bad. Do you have a good ground to the starter via the engine block? ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: jterr
Date Posted: March-25-2018 at 6:11pm
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It might be the ground as I had to hold it to block with a pair of vice grips. Going back to do some more work on boat will check the voltage and maybe use my jumper cables to connect to motor. thanks |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: March-25-2018 at 7:11pm
John, To run the compression check on your engine, you want it to crank decently with the starter. To do that, you want to get decent voltage and amps to the starter. I recommend cleaning up all your electric connections to and from the starter including the area where the starter is grounded to the block. Any resistance caused by bad connections will lower the volts to the starter so it will not perform like it should. Jumper cables are also not the greatest due to the relatively small area of the clamp teeth the current needs to get through. Also, what's the condition of the battery you're using? ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: jterr
Date Posted: March-25-2018 at 10:45pm
New |
Posted By: KENO
Date Posted: March-26-2018 at 9:41am
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Since Ford had different starters and solenoids (which had different wiring schemes) as time went on, how about a picture of your starter and another of the solenoid, so it's known what you're dealing with? Maybe yours was replaced at some time in the past On a different note, did you ever figure out how to look at the pictures that were affected by Photobucket? |
Posted By: Duane in Indy
Date Posted: March-26-2018 at 9:58am
"New" does not necessarily mean that it's good. Check it also. Leading me to believe that either the ground is bad or the cables are faulty. ------------- Keep it as original as YOU want it 1978 Mustang (modified) |
Posted By: jterr
Date Posted: March-26-2018 at 10:34am
Nope |
Posted By: jterr
Date Posted: March-27-2018 at 9:38pm
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Update Replaced solenoid and cleaned cables connections and all is good,works fine.. |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: March-27-2018 at 9:46pm
Did you check the relay first? What was the problem? Relay or cable connections? ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: jterr
Date Posted: March-27-2018 at 10:18pm
| Well between me and my neighbor trying to check voltage stuff, I decided to just get a new solenoid $12 and it even lines up correctly with the holes in that bracket on back on motor. The one on it had only 1 bolt and looked like it has been there or somewhere else for a spell. |
Posted By: KENO
Date Posted: March-28-2018 at 12:07am
So in other words Pete I don't think John cares what it was, He fixed the problem Maybe you should say something like "Good job John", but don't bother, I just said it. |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: March-28-2018 at 9:17am
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John, Now you can move on and do that compression check. I know you'll post the results. ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: jterr
Date Posted: March-28-2018 at 9:19am
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Roger that What kind of oil do I put in the cylinders to check compression? |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: March-28-2018 at 9:54am
John, For 40 years, I've always had a quart of Marvel Mystery oil in the cabinet. Great stuff that's been around for many years. I even use it mixed 50% with 30 weight to fog (lay up) engines. ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: KENO
Date Posted: March-28-2018 at 10:03am
You should start by doing some reading about performing a compression check. Plenty of how to's out there. Ideally you'd be doing this on a warm engine, (that won't be your case) Doing it cold will give different results but at least you can compare numbers between cylinders for consistency You don't use any oil when doing the initial testing, you'd only use oil in a cylinder if it's low on compression to see if it raises the compression in that cylinder. Other things to remember............throttle and choke fully open and ignition disabled. In your case maybe the carburetor is removed, that's OK. For the ignition just take away power to the coil Like I mentioned earlier do some reading first And it would be regular engine oil if you need to use some. |
Posted By: Duane in Indy
Date Posted: March-28-2018 at 10:07am
Use anything you have handy. Spray oil works fine. Use sparingly. I don't put much faith in a compression test. I personally use a leak down meter. But that's another whole conversation we have had on this site. edit: (I don't type fast enough) Use Ken's method, ------------- Keep it as original as YOU want it 1978 Mustang (modified) |
Posted By: jterr
Date Posted: March-28-2018 at 10:35am
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Thanks all, I will wait till this afternoon should be in the 80's. |
Posted By: SNobsessed
Date Posted: March-28-2018 at 10:59am
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also do it with all spark plugs out, instead of 1 at a time. ------------- “Beer is proof that God loves us and wants us to be happy.” Ben Franklin |