Battery not charging on 78 Tique
Printed From: CorrectCraftFan.com
Category: Repairs and Maintenance
Forum Name: Engine Repair
Forum Discription: Engine problems and solutions
URL: http://www.CorrectCraftFan.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=42840
Printed Date: May-05-2024 at 11:50pm
Topic: Battery not charging on 78 Tique
Posted By: Swingmatt
Subject: Battery not charging on 78 Tique
Date Posted: May-27-2018 at 5:07pm
| Battery not charging on Tique, pulled alternator off and had bench tested at parts store; it passed with flying colors I was told. On a new battery I could barley start boat after 5 starts in 7 hours on water not running any electronics. On volt meter while running, testing battery terminals it reads around 12.2 which is also same charge on battery not running. I tested back of alternator and was getting close to 40 volts at 1000 rpm connected to battery lead and ground to block. Is there some kind of external regulator? Why would I be getting that high of reading off of alternator and nothing at battery? Thanks for help |
Replies:
Posted By: KENO
Date Posted: May-27-2018 at 6:11pm
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My crystal ball says you have a 302 commander so if you have the original alternator, you should have an external voltage regulator mounted on the back of the engine In the picture below it's the silver box behind the carburetor and next to the starter solenoid. It would fit in the palm of your hand. It's probably bad so your battery isn't charging. 
|
Posted By: Swingmatt
Date Posted: May-27-2018 at 6:26pm
| Yes, same motor that’s in pic. Would a bad voltage regulator have any adverse effects on anything else? Everything seems to function as it should, at least I think it does. I know in the past I’ve had a difficult time with parts for this motor, any suggestions for the voltage regulator? Thanks for the advice |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: May-27-2018 at 6:35pm
Everything is currently running on the battery. ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Swingmatt wrote:Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: May-27-2018 at 6:38pm
Matt, Get the model of your alternator and do a search for a voltage regulator for the model. It's ether that or convert to an internally regulated alternator. ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: May-27-2018 at 7:01pm
|
Matt, I just did a very broad search for "alternator voltage regulator" and they even https://www.amazon.com/Standard-Motor-Products-VR166T-Regulator/dp/B004BTHJK0/ref=sr_1_4?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1527453919&sr=1-4&keywords=alternator+voltage+regulator" rel="nofollow - come up on Amazon. This one happens to be listed for a Ford. You mention having a problem finding parts for the 78. Any examples? Don't forget if you ever have a problem finding parts, always post the issue. BTW, do not go to your local marina or automotive parts store before asking us.  ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: May-27-2018 at 7:45pm
Matt, For piece of mind, call them up and see if they will test the alternator along with your voltage regulator. Did they even ask you about the regulator or even mention it? They should have since it's an integral part of the charging system. ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: Swingmatt
Date Posted: May-27-2018 at 8:45pm
| Ran out of time today, Gonna get back to this tomorrow.. thanks again for the guidance |
Posted By: Gary S
Date Posted: May-27-2018 at 10:21pm
|
Depending on the alternator your regulator may even look like this http://imgbox.com/fDWgXjwe" rel="nofollow">  ------------- http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=1711&sort=&pagenum=1&yrstart=1966&yrend=1970" rel="nofollow - 69 Mustang HM SS 95 Nautique Super Sport |
Posted By: KENO
Date Posted: May-28-2018 at 9:24am
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Matt If you pull the regulator off and take a picture of it with the connector, that would help as far as finding a replacement. There might even be a mfgr's name and part number on it. Or tell how many wires and what color they are |
Posted By: Swingmatt
Date Posted: May-28-2018 at 11:48am
| my regulator looks like the one in previous reply picture, not this one |
Posted By: Swingmatt
Date Posted: May-28-2018 at 12:11pm
| for an update, i had a difficult time getting advanced auto parts to bench test alternator they didn't want to do it with out a part number, but after we determined my boat wasn't four wheel drive, JK. he was able to find that alternator under a 1978 f-350 with 7.5 motor. with that info they got me a voltage regulator that pairs with it,. it also crossed referenced with the original part mnf number on part. i installed it with no success. charging system still not charging. the red wire from regulator to battery side of starting solenoid was a little corroded so i also replaced it that didn't help either. only three wire in the 4 pin plug to regulator, no wire in the I spot red in A, purple in S and green in F spot, this motor was converted from points prior to my owner ship, the charging system has never functioned since ive owned it, wonder if that has anything to do with it? maybe not converted correctly? would changing over to alternator with built in regulator be the way to go? |
Posted By: Duane in Indy
Date Posted: May-28-2018 at 12:37pm
|
Beginning to sound more like a poor connection somewhere. Start at the battery and work backwards. Both positive and negative terms. If a connector is not making a good solid contact then the alternator sees the wrong picture and won't charge correctly. It will still operate the starter because of high amp draw, but then will not charge with a lower amp draw. That would also account for the ultra high voltage. And if that is the case no amount of new alternators will fix it. Just a thought. ------------- Keep it as original as YOU want it 1978 Mustang (modified) |
Posted By: Swingmatt
Date Posted: May-28-2018 at 12:47pm
|
Sounds like a good thought, that outta keep me busy for a while, lol. Lots of old wires, may be a good time to start replacing some of them anyways. Thanks |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: May-28-2018 at 7:02pm
|
matt, Here's a older wiring diagram that does show an external voltage regulator. It may help in your wiring quest!  ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: Swingmatt
Date Posted: May-28-2018 at 8:04pm
| That will definitely help! Thanks |
Posted By: KENO
Date Posted: May-28-2018 at 8:40pm
Matt I'll throw this out there for ya. This diagram is for an early PCM with a Prestolite alternator and a Prestolite external regulator. You haven't exactly answered the question of what kind of alternator and regulator you have so be careful using the diagram. It may or may not help. If your alternator and regulator cross referenced to a 78 F-350 with a 460 in it, you don't have much chance at all of having them be from Prestolite And.........if it came in a vehicle it probably isn't a marine alternator either. Maybe they found something similar but not exact. |
Posted By: Swingmatt
Date Posted: May-28-2018 at 9:51pm
| Thank you, my motor is a 302 commander, the alternator is the original alternator but was reconditioned just before me acquiring boat. And the regulator looks to be original, it’s motorcraft marine part # D4FF-10316-AA. Either way the wireing diagram should be a decent guideline for me to start with. Not sure how to post any pics on here. I Can only access forum from my smart phone or I’d post some. |
Posted By: KENO
Date Posted: May-29-2018 at 12:19am
|
Do you have an ammeter or a voltmeter in the dash ? If it's an ammeter, does it work? If it's a voltmeter, does it look like the rest of the gauges or maybe something that was added over the years? |
Posted By: Swingmatt
Date Posted: May-29-2018 at 9:36am
| Yes, there is an ampmeter gauge in dash. Looks like the rest of gauges so I’m assuming it’s original with vessel. Boas never had a functioning charging system since in my possession so can’t say if gauge works or ever worked. Needle does flicker when ignition is turned or any other power is used, such as blower or bilge. |
Posted By: KENO
Date Posted: May-29-2018 at 10:30am
|
With an ammeter, all of the alternator output goes through the ammeter on it's way to the battery. It's a long and winding road from the alternator output connection up to the ammeter, thru the ammeter to the ignition switch, then back to the battery side of the starter solenoid, then to the battery. You can see most of this on the PCM diagram earlier in the thread (which could be drawn a little better) but for wiring setup with an ammeter, all of the alternator output goes through it no matter what brand we're talking about In other words a dead (open circuit) ammeter will prevent the alternator from charging the battery The flicker might mean it's working but I'd temporarily jumper around the ammeter with some 10 gauge wire and see if you're getting a charge to the battery. Also, with the new regulator installed what is your voltage on the Battery terminal on the alternator when the engine is running? |
Posted By: Swingmatt
Date Posted: May-29-2018 at 2:27pm
| Voltage from battery terminal on back of alternator at 600 rpm is 26-30 volts, and at 1200 rpm is around 60 volts. What exactly would I jumping to and from to get around ampmeter? |
Posted By: KENO
Date Posted: May-29-2018 at 2:57pm
Well with 60 volts coming out of it, I wouldn't do anything that could supply the electrical system. Edit keep reading through the thread and you'll see that 60 volts is what will happen when the alternator is not supplying the electrical system (oerating with no load on it) If you do you'll cook every 12v electrical piece of equipment on the boat. You really need to figure out your voltage regulation issue before doing anything You mentioned the regulator being a Motorcraft, what's the alternator? Since you can't put pictures here, what do you have for wiring connections on the alternator? So just to make sure you understand 60 volts will kill everything electrical on the boat so don't bypass the ammeter or really do anything till you get the voltage straightened out and it around 14 to 15 volts coming from the alternator |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: May-29-2018 at 3:10pm
|
Matt, I feel it's time to take both the alternator and the voltage regulator to a reputable store. Ideally it would be a "auto electric" shop. I'm getting the feeling that Advanced Auto didn't do the job! Remember, both the alternator and the regulator work together. I'll ask again, did Advanced even ask you about the regulator when you first took the alternator in? ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: Swingmatt
Date Posted: May-29-2018 at 3:35pm
| They did not ask about regulator. I agree, stopped my marine shop today, they had no advise other than a referral to a shop that may be able to help. Gonna follow up on that in next day or two. |
Posted By: Swingmatt
Date Posted: May-29-2018 at 3:40pm
| Motorcraft alternator as well. Red BAT, orange FLD, Black STA, and two ground post. |
Posted By: KENO
Date Posted: May-29-2018 at 5:52pm
|
Matt There aren't many things that me and Pete agree about but this is turning into one of them.  Your description of what wires go where and the colors associated with them really make no sense. It's not your fault, you got the boat this way Without help from an auto electric shop or having a Commander wiring diagram in front of you it's just guesswork and with electricity that usually doesn't turn out good. You did mention a while back thinking about a 1 wire alternator. Something like a 1 wire Delco marine alternator would probably bolt in pretty easily and it's hard to screw up the wiring with just one cable attached to the alternator. Pete would probably agree with me about that too. You would eliminate the external regulator, the old alternator and be cutting or taping off a few wires. Unless you're running lots of stereo stuff etc. the one wire would do just fine in your boat and it would be pretty easy to help with the wiring hookup. They're pretty cheap from places like DB electrical (around 60 dollars) |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: May-29-2018 at 5:53pm
|
Matt, Here's some auto electric shops in Atlanta Ga. Tucker Auto Electric & Accessories 2016 Metropolitan Pkwy SW, Atlanta · (404) 766-3242 Directions Nelson's Auto Electric 226 Flat Shoals Ave SE, Atlanta · (404) 523-4212 Directions Mike's Auto Electric 1 Yelp review 118 Walton St NW, Atlanta · (770) 463-5050 Directions A BC Electric Automotive 3365 W Hospital Ave Ste A, Atlanta · (678) 502-7014 Directions Fleet Auto Electric Inc 624 Cordell Dr Ste B, College Park · (404) 766-6112 Also, is this how the regulator is wired to the alternator?  ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: May-29-2018 at 6:06pm
|
Matt, Your problem is taking my memory wayyyyy back to my high school shop classes. We had a combined project between auto shop and electronics shop. We were making switch/outlet boxes that we wired into externally regulated car alternators. The switching basically bypassed the regulator feeding I believe the alternator field. Then by regulating engine RPM, the alternator would produce 120 volts for power tools. You ether have bad wiring between the regulator and alternator or the regulator is bad or the wrong one. Double check the wiring or get both the alternator and regulator to one of those shops I posted. ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: Gary S
Date Posted: May-29-2018 at 6:34pm
Evidently your memory is sketchy on geography class too.  ------------- http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=1711&sort=&pagenum=1&yrstart=1966&yrend=1970" rel="nofollow - 69 Mustang HM SS 95 Nautique Super Sport |
Posted By: Duane in Indy
Date Posted: May-29-2018 at 7:11pm
That is the route that I went. Simple is good. ------------- Keep it as original as YOU want it 1978 Mustang (modified) |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: May-29-2018 at 7:15pm
Acworth Ga is north of Atlanta so I searched for an auto electric shop there. ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: Swingmatt
Date Posted: May-29-2018 at 7:15pm
| That’s all the spots I have for connections but missing one and appears others are in wrong spots. |
Posted By: Swingmatt
Date Posted: May-29-2018 at 7:18pm
| That route is sounding more appealing at this point. |
Posted By: Swingmatt
Date Posted: May-29-2018 at 7:22pm
| Thank you all for your sharing your experience and expertise. I won’t have much time to mess with this till next week. But I’ll share where my efforts take me. |
Posted By: Gary S
Date Posted: May-29-2018 at 7:51pm
Some of the toughest driving in the country except for maybe LA. When you posted that the drive time for those 30 some miles was 2.5 HOURS.... Marietta might be a better choice,there has to be something closer or a better direction. ------------- http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=1711&sort=&pagenum=1&yrstart=1966&yrend=1970" rel="nofollow - 69 Mustang HM SS 95 Nautique Super Sport |
Posted By: KENO
Date Posted: May-29-2018 at 9:03pm
There are a few different wiring schemes depending on things like whether you have a charge indicator light or not. I figure he doesn't have a light The I terminal on the voltage regulator doesn't always get used because of this |
Posted By: fanofccfan
Date Posted: May-29-2018 at 11:50pm
|
I had similar trouble last year with my commander and went with the one wire alt from DB electrical. While running new wires to the amp meter I found out that behind the dash and on the way back to the motor the 8 or 10 gauge wire had melted to another hot lead which caused all sorts of charging problems for me. Not saying this is your issue but the new alt and new wires got mine fixed up. Pete and KenO were also played a big role in me solving the issue. So thanks again guys. ------------- 2004 196 LE Ski 1969 Marauder 19 1978 Ski |
Posted By: KENO
Date Posted: May-30-2018 at 8:28am
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Hey Pete I think you know the guy that owns this engine. Granted, it's an Escort 302 but it has the same style regulator hanging on the back of the engine. it might even have the same alternator I figure that guy could go look at his setup and maybe be a big help as far as the wiring to the regulator and alternator I don't know what you have for an alternator but it's worth a look 
|
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: May-30-2018 at 8:49am
Ken, Due to the very late ice out this year, his lift just went in the lake yesterday. So, the plan is to get over to the boathouse on his next full day off which is this coming Saturday and get it off the beams. I'll tell him to get a close look on how the alternator is wired to the regulator and report back. ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: KENO
Date Posted: May-30-2018 at 9:21am
|
Sounds like a plan I know "this guy" with an old F-150 plow truck or 2 that have the same regulator and maybe the auto version of the same alternator. I think I can convince "him" to do a little experimenting on them today. he has a spare alternator and regulator in case things don't go according to plan He thinks he might know why Matt has 60 volts at the alternator output terminal and those experiments will tell him if he's right or wrong about it. Updates to come later. |
Posted By: Riley
Date Posted: May-30-2018 at 10:42am
| Ken, that has to be an old picture of Pete's engine from the day he bought the boat as it has non original YELLOW wires and he frowns greatly on non original YELLOW wires! |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: May-30-2018 at 10:56am
Bruce, Yes, and I'm happy to say the seller discounted the sale price by $100! ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: Duane in Indy
Date Posted: May-30-2018 at 11:40am
Bet you would have got him down another $100 had you looked under the dist. cap ------------- Keep it as original as YOU want it 1978 Mustang (modified) |
Posted By: Gary S
Date Posted: May-30-2018 at 12:02pm
|
I added 50 hp by using yellow wires. Would have been easier to just change the decals ------------- http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=1711&sort=&pagenum=1&yrstart=1966&yrend=1970" rel="nofollow - 69 Mustang HM SS 95 Nautique Super Sport |
Posted By: KENO
Date Posted: May-30-2018 at 1:31pm
|
While you guys have been busy pickin' on Pete, I've been out doing a little testing. Having a couple of old Ford plow trucks with the same alternator and external regulator setup, I was curious how much voltage one of these alternators would put out if it was supplying NOTHING.like I think Matt's is. As a baseline with the engine OFF I checked battery voltage , it was about 12.4 and checked the alternator output terminal which was also at 12.4 That was logical Then I started it and the alternator was charging the battery and the output terminal and battery voltage both read about 14.5 Logical and expected. Turned it off and disconnected the output wire from the alternator so it could still run but supply power to nothing. In this condition it would be sensing a battery voltage of 12.5 or so and wanting to jack it up to 14.5 so the regulator would be increasing the excitation trying to make this happen. Since the output wire is disconnected the battery voltage will never go up. In this condition, I started it and battery voltage was 12.5 and I had about 55 volts on the alternator output at a fast idle and the more I revved it up the higher the voltage went. At about 80 volts I figured I'd seen what I needed to see and turned the engine off and restored things to normal with the alternator output hooked up again. Restarted the engine and everything was back to normal with the alternator putting out about 14.5 volts and the battery reading the same 14.5 So I think Matt has an alternator/regulator that's working right and doesn't have a complete circuit to the battery to charge it. It could be a dead ammeter, it could be a broken wire, or a bad connection in the engine to wiring harness connector To check this Matt, one easy check would be to check the voltage on the alternator output terminal while the output wire is hooked up and the engine is OFF. If you have battery voltage there, then my theory is out to lunch but.......... If you have no voltage there, then you know what the problem is. The alternator works but has no place to send it's output. If you look at the marked up diagram below, you can see in BLUE the charging flow path with an ammeter If you look at the RED line you see the flowpath with a voltmeter. The colors have nothing to do with the wire colors, they were just colors I had handy to mark up the drawing. You can make a test jumper with some 10 gauge wire hooked up as shown by the RED line and your alternator should then work and charge the battery at about 14.5 volts.Like I said earlier it's really just the charging path that is used when there is a voltmeter instead of an ammeter It's easy to do and if you see crazy high voltage still or you get nervous for any reason you just turn the engine off or pull the jumper off. I tried this with 2 different Ford alternator/external regulator setups and the results were the same so it's worth a try and I think your charging issues will be figured out 
|
Posted By: Hollywood
Date Posted: May-30-2018 at 2:12pm
| You da man |
Posted By: Duane in Indy
Date Posted: May-30-2018 at 2:56pm
Had a loose connection on a hot rod years ago. Had lost the connection to the battery and blew out ALL the bulbs that were lit at the time. Headlights and all. I feel Ken is on the right path. Great job as always KENO ------------- Keep it as original as YOU want it 1978 Mustang (modified) |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: May-30-2018 at 5:47pm
Absolutely!!  ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: samudj01
Date Posted: May-31-2018 at 1:22am
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I feel a little smarter having read this. Thanks ------------- 78 Ski Tique, 72 Skier w/302's, 93 SN w/351 & 17 GS22 w/zr409 Previous - 99 Sport Nautique w/GT40 and 87 Martinique w/351 |
Posted By: KENO
Date Posted: May-31-2018 at 8:17am
|
One thing to keep in mind is that different alternator/regulator setups will act differently so these results only really pertain to this setup. I did the same thing with a 3 wire Delco with an internal regulator and it steadied out at 28 volts. Then I tried it with a 1 wire Delco with an internal regulator and when you unhook the output wire you now have a No Wire Delco that puts out zero volts So one thing to get from this would be that it's not always the alternators fault when the battery isn't charging Also since all the charging current goes through an ammeter, if it dies you don't just have a bad meter but you lose your charging capability. Ammeters and voltmeters both have their good and bad points Some people like a voltmeter, some like an ammeter We'll have to wait and see how Matt's issue turns out. |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: May-31-2018 at 9:07am
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Matt, When you get back to working on the problem, get the volt meter out again. Get under the dash and check the volts going into the ammeter which could be an orange wire and then out which could be the red wire running to the ignition switch. If the ammeter is open (internally no connection) then you would have no volts out and the issue Ken just duplicated on his truck. ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: KENO
Date Posted: May-31-2018 at 9:28am
I think what you really want to say Pete is that he'll have battery voltage on the outlet of the ammeter That wire ties in to the red wire on the ignition switch which is the BAT connection on the switch and it's getting power from the battery all the time. If he was to disconnect the outlet wire, then he'd see zero volts |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: May-31-2018 at 9:37am
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Matt, Ken above is correct as I overlooked the battery connection. Disconnect the red wire from the ammeter running to the ignition switch and then get the volt readings. The result will tell you if the ammeter is bad. ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: May-31-2018 at 9:47am
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Matt, The alternate to checking the ammeter with voltage is to use you VOM set to the Ohm scale. Disconnect the ammeter (one wire is fine), no need to run the engine and then you should get a near zero Ohm reading across the terminals. ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: MrMcD
Date Posted: May-31-2018 at 2:26pm
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Ken, you have gone way and above what anyone could expect. Very nice job and I think you are dead on seeing the problem with this boat. Pete, based on your thoughts on the Amp meter if he just jumped across the Orange and Red would than not complete the connection and get his battery charging again although he would be without the amp meter which appears to not be working anyway. It would allow him to run again while waiting for the new amp meter. If the amp meter is now working then he has a bad connection or broken wire somewhere between the alternator and battery as you guys pointed out already. ------------- |
Posted By: Little one
Date Posted: May-31-2018 at 3:19pm
| As usual you people do an outstanding job telling others how to diagnose and fix the problem! On another note what wires would need to be removed /added to make a higher amp 1 wire alternator work? |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: May-31-2018 at 6:57pm
Mark, I suggested testing first before jumping anything out due to the same concern Ken had a few posts back. That is sending the high voltage through the boat and possibly burning everything out. Confirm the cause first. ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: Duane in Indy
Date Posted: May-31-2018 at 7:04pm
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Replace with a volt gauge. Ammeters are archaic and fire hazards, that is why they quit using them years ago. Minimal rewiring and then you are protected and safe. Safety overrides originality. Show me one new vehicle with an ammeter. ------------- Keep it as original as YOU want it 1978 Mustang (modified) |
Posted By: Duane in Indy
Date Posted: May-31-2018 at 7:13pm
|
Pretty good article below. http://www.hotrod.com/articles/hot-rodelectrical-system-2/" rel="nofollow - good info Just my opinion and I feel sure other(s) will differ. ------------- Keep it as original as YOU want it 1978 Mustang (modified) |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: May-31-2018 at 7:16pm
Replace with an ammeter. They are not "archaic" and only become a fire hazard when hacks don't use fuses! An ammeter will show a true charge or discharge where as a volt meter shows volts. You can have the volts without any charging. You don't see ammeters anymore simply because it's cheaper to us a volt meter due to the smaller gauge wire needed. Matt, You already have the wire in the boat!! ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: Duane in Indy
Date Posted: May-31-2018 at 7:35pm
Having a problem finding "said" fuse in your diagragm What size fuse is recommended for a 105 amp alternator?? Also where would you recommend installing it? Keep your ammeter and I'll keep my voltmeter and we will both live happily ever after No hard feelings and no harm done. Duane ------------- Keep it as original as YOU want it 1978 Mustang (modified) |