Suspect Starter Relay
Printed From: CorrectCraftFan.com
Category: Repairs and Maintenance
Forum Name: Engine Repair
Forum Discription: Engine problems and solutions
URL: http://www.CorrectCraftFan.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=43280
Printed Date: April-27-2024 at 7:26am
Topic: Suspect Starter Relay
Posted By: KRoundy
Subject: Suspect Starter Relay
Date Posted: July-30-2018 at 2:55am
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Hey all! Hope that you are spending lots of time on the water this summer in your boats! After starting off fine this summer, my boat would not start for me this evening. I turn the key and get a click, but nothing else. The engine does not turn over at all. I'm suspicious that it is the starter relay, but I find that odd because my relay is only four or five years old. The starter is also only about that old. Assuming it is the relay - What is causing my relays to die? What do I do to test my current relay to know if it is bad? Or, what else could be causing this problem? KRoundy ------------- Previous: 1993 Electric Blue/Charcoal Ski Nautique Current: 2016 Ski Nautique 200 Open Bow |
Replies:
Posted By: KENO
Date Posted: July-30-2018 at 8:55am
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I think I'd be checking/cleaning all the electrical connections from the battery to the relay and the starter including the ground to the block before just assuming it's the relay. A voltmeter on the various connections when you turn the key will tell you a lot. Depending on the starter, the relay wiring is gonna be different for the old style starter as compared to the newer permanent magnet Ford starters so knowing what you have would help too. |
Posted By: KENO
Date Posted: July-30-2018 at 9:15am
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Being a 93 you probably have the newer style starter and this version of the TRB diagram would apply. It's one he modified from his original, but didn't change the wording in the legend at the lower right Note 1 in this case should say "Ford solenoid type starter" or "permanent magnet starter" 
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Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: July-30-2018 at 9:30am
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Kevin, Last summer and then again this summer, I was having intermediate no cranking on my Tique with the start relay (solenoid) energized. Before pulling the starter and doing a commutator cleanup, I did a quick Ohm check on the relay contacts. You remove the cable going to the starter so you don't send any power to it and then Ohm across the two large studs while the relay coil is energized. You can energize it with the ignition switch or just jumper from the battery cable post to the coil terminal on the relay. I got anywhere from 2 to 7 Ohms telling me the relay contacts weren't in great shape. You should get a near zero Ohm reading. So, it was off to the closest auto parts store for a new relay. I ended up with a https://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p/bwd-starter-solenoid-s5049/18970446-P?searchTerm=starter+solenoid" rel="nofollow - genaric "Ford" type 4 pole . I needed the 4 pole since the 302 does have the ballast resistor bypass during cranking. They do make a 3 pole but many parts stores don't stock them. A 4 pole will work if the bypass feature isn't needed. You just don't use the 4th pole. If you do need a relay, go for the higher priced relays since they have higher amp ratings. The relay replace worked and it saved me from having to pull the starter. ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: KRoundy
Date Posted: July-30-2018 at 11:07am
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Pete, that is perfect, thanks. That is exactly what I needed. I'm towing the boat back home today, but will get out my multi-meter when I get home and start checking things. Keno - The electrical connections all "look" clean, but I'll definitely check that out too. I have the suspect 1993 not-so-good-ground situation going on in my dashboard. This would be a good time to upgrade the ground in my dash and also make sure that my current connections are all tight and clean. Kevin ------------- Previous: 1993 Electric Blue/Charcoal Ski Nautique Current: 2016 Ski Nautique 200 Open Bow |
Posted By: Goldcup101
Date Posted: July-31-2018 at 7:51am
| I had this earlier this season on my 97. Was intermittent and got rapidly worse. New relay was around $35 from nautiquepartsI think. Problem solved. |
Posted By: KRoundy
Date Posted: July-31-2018 at 5:52pm
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Thanks, Calum. Will be getting out the multimeter tonight to do some checking. I'm guessing it will be the relay. If it is, then the question becomes, "Why is my boat eating relays?" ------------- Previous: 1993 Electric Blue/Charcoal Ski Nautique Current: 2016 Ski Nautique 200 Open Bow |
Posted By: KRoundy
Date Posted: August-07-2018 at 2:17am
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With the help of my friends here, I quickly determined it was the relay. I ordered a new "heavy duty" relay from NautiquePars and my engine is starting like a champ again. Thanks! Now - why does it smell like it is running so rich? Might be time to finally rebuild that carb... ------------- Previous: 1993 Electric Blue/Charcoal Ski Nautique Current: 2016 Ski Nautique 200 Open Bow |
Posted By: KRoundy
Date Posted: September-16-2018 at 8:27pm
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Here I am just a couple of months later, and I'm back. I was cleaning up my boat yesterday in prep for taking it out again soon. I thought, "I should just make sure it cranks over." I turn the key and "click". I have grown to hate that sound. I will get out the multi-meter and let you know what I find on the relay. The thing is brand new, so it should read zero when I put power to it, right Pete? If it tests OK, I suppose the next thing is to look at the starter? It's not very old either... Connections are all tight and clean. KENO - where should I be testing voltages? The boat started and ran with gusto in August. Frustrating. ------------- Previous: 1993 Electric Blue/Charcoal Ski Nautique Current: 2016 Ski Nautique 200 Open Bow |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: September-16-2018 at 8:50pm
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The click means you are getting power to the relay coil so you are good there. Now, with the relay energized (key to the start position) read the volts into the relay and then the volts out. It should be close to the same voltage. What condition is the battery in? get a volt reading off it too both with no load and then with the key turned to start. ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: KRoundy
Date Posted: September-17-2018 at 12:36am
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Got it. Will do, Pete. ------------- Previous: 1993 Electric Blue/Charcoal Ski Nautique Current: 2016 Ski Nautique 200 Open Bow |
Posted By: KENO
Date Posted: September-17-2018 at 8:12am
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If you have the later style starter shown in the diagram earlier in this thread, you have another solenoid mounted on the starter. It's getting constant power from the battery cable that's hooked to it and also when you turn the key, the "slave solenoid" you recently replaced sends power through the small gauge yellow mustard colored wire on the diagram to the starter mounted solenoid to make the starter work. Your wire might be a different color. I'd check/clean the connections at the starter and all the positive battery cable connections at the starter, the slave solenoid and the battery and then the negative cable at the battery and where it grounds to the engine. If all that's good, maybe the starter itself is the issue even though it's pretty new or maybe the battery cables have corrosion you can't see. If they're original, they might be worth replacing If the wiring is as shown in the diagram, the solenoid you just replaced only has to transmit a very small amount of current and the starter mounted one transmits full starting motor current when you turn the key. |
Posted By: Bri892001
Date Posted: September-17-2018 at 12:26pm
| I'll just throw it out there that my 93 has the older style starter, without the additional solenoid. |
Posted By: KRoundy
Date Posted: September-18-2018 at 11:56pm
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OK. I'm back with results: Battery is new this year and fully charged. It reads 12.54V at rest and 11.84 when I turn the key to start. I'm getting 12.36 V across the relay which of course plunges to almost zero when I turn the key. The solenoid on top of the stater is getting 12.37V at rest and 11.46V when I turn the key. The connections all have zero corrosion. I gave the little yellow mustard connector between the starter relay and the solenoid on top of the starter a scrub. Interestingly, the wire got noticeably warmer as I was messing with it, which tells me juice is flowing through that wire just fine. If you are interested I am getting 10.6V at that mustard connection when I turn the key. One final note - the noise appears to be coming from the starter when I say I hear a clicking sound. It is like it is trying to engage to turn the engine but can't perhaps? It used to be that you could take a starter to a auto parts store and have it tested, but I wonder if they even do that these days... So, what is my prognosis? Dead starter? ------------- Previous: 1993 Electric Blue/Charcoal Ski Nautique Current: 2016 Ski Nautique 200 Open Bow |
Posted By: KRoundy
Date Posted: September-19-2018 at 12:06am
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OK. CRAZY UPDATE!!!! I was sitting in my boat typing up all the data I just posted. Right as I completed my post and hit "Post Reply" I looked down and saw smoke coming from my starter area! I quickly checked things and found that the solenoid on top of the starter was SMOKING HOT!!!! I think I slightly burned the back of a finger touching it. Note, I was trying to disconnect the small mustard yellow wire, NOT checking for how hot things were with my fingers!!! :) Before I could disconnect anything I looked over and noticed the key was turned to off. The ignition breaker was on. so I switched it to off and the light stayed on. WHAT!?!? Right at that moment the engine actually turned over a little bit on its own! It is possessed! I practically dove into the battery tub and disconnected it. Then, everything was calm. Whew. So now I am sending this follow up with my completely dead boat airing out from the burnt electrical smell and my battery is sitting on the floor in my garage. What is happening!?!? Is that solenoid on top of the starter the culprit? Can I just replace that part or is it one unit? I recall running through starter solenoids in my 1974 Vega GT when I was in high school.  ------------- Previous: 1993 Electric Blue/Charcoal Ski Nautique Current: 2016 Ski Nautique 200 Open Bow |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: September-19-2018 at 7:39am
Kevin, Just as Ken mentioned:
you should only have power on the small yellow wire going to the solenoid on the starter when the key is turned. Can you post a picture on how the new solenoid you replaced on the engine is wired? Sounds like it's been wired as if you have the old style starter without the solenoid? ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
KRoundy wrote:Posted By: KENO
Date Posted: September-19-2018 at 8:40am
Well, unlike Pete I'll figure you have it wired right since it's worked for a few years  I'd take the starter out and get it tested preferably at an auto electric shop, not a parts store. In a pinch,you could take it to a parts store for a quick and dirty test, you'll probably know right away if the solenoid is bad.when the wires get hooked up for the test. Whether you originally had an issue with the starter mounted solenoid, I think you do now. I think it's been your problem all along, but that's just me thinking from 3000 miles away. The solenoids on the starter are replaceable and pretty cheap. In the automotive world Ford used them from about 1992 and up |
Posted By: Mpost
Date Posted: September-19-2018 at 12:31pm
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+1 on Keno's suggestion. It sounds to me like the click means the solenoid was trying to engage, and a lot like some of the starters I have had over the years with a dead spot so the motor wont spin. Usually giving it a whack with a hammer or something can get it to spin again. However I don't understand why leaving the key on would make the solenoid and wiring hot, unless something is wrong elsewhere. ------------- 84 SN Sold 98 SN Lund Pro V 1975 Alumacraft |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: September-19-2018 at 4:09pm
My thought as well and the reason I suggested posting a picture showing the wiring on the solenoid on the engine. ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: rolleronariver
Date Posted: September-19-2018 at 6:13pm
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Up into the point where you almost burned your boat up, I was going to say it sounds just like when my starter was going out a couple of summers ago. Sometimes I could get out there and it would just fire up with no issues and then sometimes it would just "click". I went through the whole thing looking for corrosion or loose wires. I couldn't find anything. Finally, I felt the starter and it was burning hot. I undid everything and took the starter to O'rielly's and it was toast. Ordered a new one and I haven't had a problem since. ------------- 92 Sport nautique |
Posted By: woodyelc
Date Posted: September-19-2018 at 6:14pm
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Sounds like the starter is locked up ------------- woodyelc |
Posted By: rolleronariver
Date Posted: September-19-2018 at 6:17pm
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There's still another issue though. The starter might have caused that issue but something else is wrong if it was trying to start with the ignition switch off and the key off. ------------- 92 Sport nautique |
Posted By: Mpost
Date Posted: September-19-2018 at 7:32pm
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Agree with Pete. KRoundy wrote "Before I could disconnect anything I looked over and noticed the key was turned to off. The ignition breaker was on. so I switched it to off and the light stayed on. " Pretty sure the Ign. light comes as soon as key is on and before you turn it to start. Is there a relay involved to turn on that light? Its like the key switch or something else in the circuit (relay) stuck in the start mode, And a possible bad starter.  ------------- 84 SN Sold 98 SN Lund Pro V 1975 Alumacraft |
Posted By: KENO
Date Posted: September-19-2018 at 9:03pm
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The engine is gonna turn over like it did with the key in OFF if the solenoid contacts welded themselves together. It just turns over and won't start since there's no power to the ignition system. The starter mounted solenoid in this case would be my main suspect.since that solenoid is handling the high starter current and the slave solenoid is handling minimal current. A bad starter drawing high current could cause the welding together of the solenoid contacts It's always fun having to get a battery cable disconnected in that situation
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Posted By: Duane in Indy
Date Posted: September-19-2018 at 9:54pm
Another vote for my Battery Disconnect Switch in all my boats ------------- Keep it as original as YOU want it 1978 Mustang (modified) |
Posted By: KRoundy
Date Posted: September-20-2018 at 12:39am
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I have a lot of things to put right: 1. The yellow wire had no voltage to it until I turned the key. 2. I pulled the starter and it smelled awful. I'm pretty certain that it welded the contacts together. Whatever happened the result smells pretty toxic. I'd be surprised if I miss-wired something. But to satisfy the curious:  ------------- Previous: 1993 Electric Blue/Charcoal Ski Nautique Current: 2016 Ski Nautique 200 Open Bow |
Posted By: KRoundy
Date Posted: September-20-2018 at 12:55am
Here is the starter before I removed it: ------------- Previous: 1993 Electric Blue/Charcoal Ski Nautique Current: 2016 Ski Nautique 200 Open Bow |
Posted By: KRoundy
Date Posted: September-20-2018 at 1:12am
And because I love to upload photos - here is the engine when I purchased it and was pulling things apart while documenting how everything was laid out. Looking through these it reminded me how incredibly dirty everything was when I purchased it. :) ------------- Previous: 1993 Electric Blue/Charcoal Ski Nautique Current: 2016 Ski Nautique 200 Open Bow |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: September-20-2018 at 7:31am
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Kevin, You satisfied my curiosity. The solenoid on the engine is wired correctly. Time for a new starter or a rebuild. ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: KENO
Date Posted: September-20-2018 at 8:50am
It looks to me like that paint on the starter body is blistered from heat and also the female spade type connector at the end of the yellow/red wire looks like it melted some of the heat shrink that was covering it. On many of these starters that male spade type connection is held on with a nut and it can be removed from the solenoid and a ring type connector used in it's place with a nut holding it good and tight to avoid any bad contact/arcing issues. |
Posted By: KENO
Date Posted: September-20-2018 at 8:56am
This picture reminded me that you have a converted Pro Tec engine and that's why you have a wire on the "I" terminal on the engine mounted solenoid. I think it's wired right too. As for the yellow wire, it should have no voltage till the key is turned |
Posted By: Mpost
Date Posted: September-20-2018 at 10:46am
I would pay close attention to your ignition relay light when you reassemble with a new starter and connect the battery. I do not see how if the ignition switch is in the off position the light could still be on unless, something is wrong with the switch or breaker also. Or there is a path for the voltage that is not in the diagram above? But this would mean the light would always be on. ------------- 84 SN Sold 98 SN Lund Pro V 1975 Alumacraft |
Posted By: KRoundy
Date Posted: September-20-2018 at 4:55pm
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I'm going to get a new starter and will report back. Since I had the solenoid meltdown I'm thinking that I'd like to just replace the entire thing. With regard to the weird issues about the ignition light being on and the engine turning over with the key disconnected - I'm certain that diagram is not 100% complete. There are a quite a few other wires that run off and do different things. I've actually seen the "phantom engine turn-over" thing happen on a kicker motor in a sail boat before. It was crazy. We were all looking at the engine trying to figure out what was wrong and suddenly it started to turn over. We all yelled up to the bridge, "Stop cranking the engine!!!" The guy walked out of the helm holding the key in his hand while we watched the engine crank and crank. We disconnected the battery and got a tow. Lucky for me - this time I was sitting in my driveway when it happened. ------------- Previous: 1993 Electric Blue/Charcoal Ski Nautique Current: 2016 Ski Nautique 200 Open Bow |
Posted By: Gary S
Date Posted: September-20-2018 at 5:18pm
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Kevin check around but check out Arco starters.I got one http://www.discountmarinesupplies.com/Arco_70200_Ford_302_and_361_Starter.html" rel="nofollow - here the cheapest and am happy with it ------------- http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=1711&sort=&pagenum=1&yrstart=1966&yrend=1970" rel="nofollow - 69 Mustang HM SS 95 Nautique Super Sport |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: September-20-2018 at 5:48pm
Kevin, I don't see anything wrong with that wiring diagram. You're just not listening to Ken. 
------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: KENO
Date Posted: September-20-2018 at 6:42pm
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I'm seeing things that are incomplete on the diagram for a converted Pro Tec setup. This is pretty much a mid 80's diagram in the good ole' carburetor and distributor days. One obvious thing is that Kevin has a wire hooked to the "I" terminal that doesn't show on the posted diagram but it's on the Pro Tec diagram The Pro Tec diagram that's floating around has the old style starter so it's not exactly good for Kevin to refer to either |
Posted By: KENO
Date Posted: September-20-2018 at 6:44pm
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Those welded contacts and engine turning over is Pete's favorite low battery/high current draw scenario
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Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: September-20-2018 at 7:35pm
And you like the scenario too! In fact, I believe you mentioned it in this thread before I did!
------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: KRoundy
Date Posted: September-21-2018 at 12:02am
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OK. Nothing is WRONG per say with that diagram, it just doesn't have everything that is on a 1993 era engine. Thanks for the link Gary! I appreciate it. Ordered the starter and it is on my way. Kevin ------------- Previous: 1993 Electric Blue/Charcoal Ski Nautique Current: 2016 Ski Nautique 200 Open Bow |
Posted By: KRoundy
Date Posted: September-29-2018 at 11:42pm
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New starter in, engine cranks over like a champ. No problems, I smile to myself. I decide to crank it until it fires. After a little bit (5 seconds or so) I turn the ignition off and.... the engine keeps cranking!!! NOOOO!!!!! I pull the cable from the battery and it repeats the condition. My father-in-law comes over at this time and after a while we wander out so I can show him. I can't get the problem to repeat! Everything works just fine right now. I started and ran the engine for a few seconds. The starter disengaged just fine. So now I'm really confused. Help me my friends! I checked all the voltages. Everything is working as it should (now). I am wondering - could it be the ignition switch itself? ------------- Previous: 1993 Electric Blue/Charcoal Ski Nautique Current: 2016 Ski Nautique 200 Open Bow |
Posted By: KRoundy
Date Posted: September-30-2018 at 1:02pm
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I did some more reading last night. Potential problems: 1. Bad starter solenoid. I got a new Arco starter and solenoid unit. 2. Bad ignition switch. It could be that my 25 year old ignition switch is just bad. I have a replacement unit and wonder if I should just replace it and tear into the old one to see if I see anything suspicious? 3. Perhaps when I was cranking the engine things just got very hot? 4. I am getting good numbers (12V) everywhere. But I was thinking: Could there be an issue where the wires allow for enough current to flow that voltages look OK, but they don't allow the amps need to function properly? If that is the case, does anyone know the lengths of the positive and negative battery cables? I could take some measurements and get pretty close, or just pull them out. Then the question is - where do I go to get new battery cables? That is - where can I get good ones? Are "marine" cables different? ------------- Previous: 1993 Electric Blue/Charcoal Ski Nautique Current: 2016 Ski Nautique 200 Open Bow |
Posted By: Gary S
Date Posted: September-30-2018 at 1:23pm
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Bestboatwire.com Kevin. Pull your out to check the length and what type of ends,go on their site and you can custom build them. Not expensive at all either ------------- http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=1711&sort=&pagenum=1&yrstart=1966&yrend=1970" rel="nofollow - 69 Mustang HM SS 95 Nautique Super Sport |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: September-30-2018 at 1:31pm
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Kevin, I've noticed you are checking volts but what about Ohms which you should be doing for checking continuity especially with your suspect ignition switch. ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: KENO
Date Posted: September-30-2018 at 2:27pm
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I figure, you have the switch you might as well replace it and like Gary said battery cables with good ends would be a good thing to do especially if yours are original Even though it's a brand new battery you could get it load tested to be sure that it's a good brand new battery
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Posted By: tryathlete
Date Posted: September-30-2018 at 4:49pm
| Ignition switch seems like a likely culprit. Replaced mine when the same thing happened right after I bought it. |
Posted By: MrMcD
Date Posted: September-30-2018 at 6:57pm
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The ignition switch failing is pretty common in old boats. I have installed 2 in my boats. The good part is Napa had them on the shelf so replacement was not an issue. ------------- |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: September-30-2018 at 9:03pm
I'd say more common in newer boats. They don't make them like they used to comes to mind. My "old" ones in my 64 and 54 are still working great. If you don't spend at least $35.00 for say a Cole Hersee, then you are buying a pretty low quality switch. With the rather harsh environment of marine, don't expect the low quality's to last very long. ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: KRoundy
Date Posted: September-30-2018 at 11:06pm
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OK. In the next couple of days I'm going to go pull the battery cables and the dashboard. I'll pull the ignition switch and do some checking to see if I can determine if there any continuity problems. The cables are all original so I think a set of replacements are probably overdue. I'll measure them and post the results here for all. I plan to replace the positive cables from the batter to the relay and the relay to the starter. The negative cable from the battery to the block. ------------- Previous: 1993 Electric Blue/Charcoal Ski Nautique Current: 2016 Ski Nautique 200 Open Bow |
Posted By: Mpost
Date Posted: October-01-2018 at 10:44am
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In one of your earlier posts you said. "Why is my boat eating relays?" I take it you are talking about the relay/solenoid on the engine that you have a picture of. Or are you talking about another relay. Either case Maybe you fried another one with the bad starter? I would agree that the ignition switch is suspect and possibly the solenoid on engine. I have fought wiring issues in the past that showed good voltage until there was a load. Once load was applied it would drop or disappear all together. This indicates bad connections, corrosion or chewed thru wiring. ------------- 84 SN Sold 98 SN Lund Pro V 1975 Alumacraft |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: October-01-2018 at 5:42pm
Martin, This is why I have recommended taking Ohm readings with your VOM. ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: Mpost
Date Posted: October-02-2018 at 10:44am
 ------------- 84 SN Sold 98 SN Lund Pro V 1975 Alumacraft |
Posted By: KRoundy
Date Posted: October-02-2018 at 10:48pm
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Was hopeful that I could go work on it today - I get home and it is pouring rain. I'll check back in when I get a chance to go pull wires. ------------- Previous: 1993 Electric Blue/Charcoal Ski Nautique Current: 2016 Ski Nautique 200 Open Bow |
Posted By: KRoundy
Date Posted: October-06-2018 at 11:42pm
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A dry day, finally! I pulled the battery cables. If anyone ever needs to know it is recorded here - All measurements are end to end. Red - From battery to starter relay - 113" Red - From relay to starter - 18" Black - From the battery to the engine block - 70" I installed these wires and then turned my attention to the dashboard. I pulled the existing ignition switch. I noticed some green goo on the connector that was the battery connection on the switch? I cleaned that off and wire-brushed all the connectors before installing and connecting my new ignition. I put everything back together and it works great. The engine turns over with gusto and does not keep turning when I switch off the key. I checked the old switch with my volt-ohm meter and it appears to work OK? Although I can't (obviously) check it under load. I got the wires at a GREAT marina near me - Harbor Marine in Everett, WA. They had cable by the foot (or inch) and the crimping tool needed to attach the proper connectors. I feel really blessed to have a great marine store near me that has such great service, people and parts. ------------- Previous: 1993 Electric Blue/Charcoal Ski Nautique Current: 2016 Ski Nautique 200 Open Bow |
Posted By: Mpost
Date Posted: October-07-2018 at 12:41am
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Great Hope that takes care of your problems ------------- 84 SN Sold 98 SN Lund Pro V 1975 Alumacraft |
Posted By: MrMcD
Date Posted: October-07-2018 at 4:07am
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Glad you got it running again. It always comes down to parts. Fix the right part and off you go again. Enjoy it now. ------------- |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: October-07-2018 at 7:57am
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------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: Goldcup101
Date Posted: October-08-2018 at 8:02am
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Glad you got it sorted Kev. I've been watching the thread with interest but had no suggestions! I'm wiser now if I see the same issue! I just left Seattle the other day, I know the weather you speak of; it rained both days I was there! Regards, Calum |