Please clarify - winterization
Printed From: CorrectCraftFan.com
Category: Repairs and Maintenance
Forum Name: Boat Maintenance
Forum Discription: Discuss maintenance of your Correct Craft
URL: http://www.CorrectCraftFan.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=4633
Printed Date: May-11-2024 at 2:16am
Topic: Please clarify - winterization
Posted By: bsucics
Subject: Please clarify - winterization
Date Posted: August-27-2006 at 7:03pm
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Thanks to all the posts here, I think I've learned quite a bit about winterizing my 89. However, as a first time owner I was hoping to get some clarification on several items:
I plan on going with the method of drawing antifreeze from a bucket to cycle through the engine. 1) It is preferable to drain the water first, rather than letting the antifreeze 'push' it out? 2) a$$uming the engine isn't warmed up, the thermostat needs to be removed before starting this process? 3) (sorry for my ignorance here) What is the flame arrestor and why do I need to remove this prior to starting this process? Thanks in advance for any help. |
Replies:
Posted By: Tim D
Date Posted: August-27-2006 at 7:14pm
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I always take the thermostat out, just to save time not having to run it waiting for it to warm up and open. If you don't remove it, you need to recycle the antifreeze until you get hot antifreeze out the exhaust, if you don't and the thermostat is closed, it's going to pump it right out the exhaust. Also, you don't want lake water rusting everything all winter. The flame arrestor is the bra$$ air filter looking thing on top of the carburetor. ------------- Tim D |
Posted By: eric lavine
Date Posted: August-27-2006 at 7:23pm
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at operating temp, drain engine first, open petcocks if nothing comes out poke a papeclip into them to remove any sediment, seen many cracks due to a blocked petcock, remove hose at pick up or sea strainer, start engine and pour a good biodegradable antifreeze w/rust inhibitor in hose, I use at least 2 gallons, turn off engine. remove plugs and squirt fogging oil into them. no need to remove thermostat. loosen petcock on side of block and make sure you see antifreeze ------------- "the things you own will start to own you" |
Posted By: eric lavine
Date Posted: August-27-2006 at 7:27pm
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everyone has different methods, they all work, most important thing is to drain all the water first to insure no cracking, you can use either method of removing thermostat or leaving it in. ------------- "the things you own will start to own you" |
Posted By: 79nautique
Date Posted: August-27-2006 at 8:36pm
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to me sucking in the anti freeze seems to waiste more than just pouring it into the block, I never leave any antifreeze in the exhaust manifolds and only worry about the block. I also leave the hoses to the rwp disconnected and drain the tranny cooler don't like the idea of leaving fluid in the hoses below the t-stat with the exception of the hoses going to the water pump. So anything from the t-stat housing to the pick-up are dry. If they are left full if a mouse or varment eats through a hose it can siphon the block or a leak can do the same thing. ------------- http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=756&sort=&pagenum=1&yrstart=1979&yrend=1979 - 79 nautique |
Posted By: Tim D
Date Posted: August-27-2006 at 9:04pm
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Don't leave your RWP with anti freeze in it, I believe that caused my impellor to get hard and break. ------------- Tim D |
Posted By: The Dude
Date Posted: August-27-2006 at 10:49pm
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This discussion is depressing (no offense bsu). It's not even Labor Day. I still sweat every morning on the way to the curb to get the paper!
------------- Mullet Free since 93 http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=717&sort=&pagenum=1&yrstart=1991&yrend=1995 - 95 Sport |
Posted By: bsucics
Date Posted: August-28-2006 at 8:36am
| Great info here - I appreciate everyone's help. Regarding the flame arrestor...I guess I'm still not clear why that needs to come off before going through this process? Thanks again. |
Posted By: David F
Date Posted: August-28-2006 at 10:10am
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antifreeze is a rubber preservative, so should not harm the impellar. Personally, I remove the RWP and the impellar and store each on the shelf. I drain the block and exhaust manifolds of water. Remove the U-pipe drain plug, remove the heat exchange drain plug and leave both out. I then elevate the RWP outlet hose above the thermostate and pour in straight RV/Marine antifreeze (2 gallons). Done.
Forgot to mention that this is all done after letting the engine warm up for about 10 minutes and just prior to shutting off, I spray fogging oil in throat of TB. Basically, this is pretty much book proceedure, I think. ------------- |
Posted By: 87BFN owner
Date Posted: August-28-2006 at 7:34pm
Posted By: stang72
Date Posted: August-28-2006 at 8:39pm
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I never use antifreeze...as long as everything(block,manifolds,hoses and water pump)is drained well all is good! Antifreeze, I suppose would be extra insurance.
Add stable to the fuel....and fog engine. Taking out T stat or impeller is optional...imo. ------------- stang Face plants are not that funny when it's you face! http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/images/3720/photo1.jpg" rel="nofollow - The Super Air |
Posted By: p/allen
Date Posted: August-28-2006 at 10:05pm
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I drain block petcocks,pull plug on water pump,trans cooler and 2 elbows at back of exaust manifolds . No antifreeze.
Pat ------------- Pat http://i175.photobucket.com/albums/w146/72ccfan/100_5977-1.jpg - My 72 Skier Rock River Dixon,ILL. |
Posted By: David F
Date Posted: August-29-2006 at 9:04am
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I used to just drain the block and NOT add anti-freeze. Each year, I noticed large pieces of scale would block the drains and I would have to pick it out. Now that I use antifreeze, this problem has stopped. Also, here is a quote out of the PCM engine manual:
"Fill the engine with a solution of 50% clean water and 50% of non-toxic food grade antifreeze. This helps to prevent the drying out of seals and gaskets, prevents the formation of hard, dry, rust scale in the water jackets , and prevents freezing damage from isolated pockets of trapped water." I am a believer on the scale part, if nothing else. ------------- |
Posted By: Mark Mel
Date Posted: August-29-2006 at 3:00pm
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I use stabil in all of my engines prior to winter lay-up. On my huskavarna string trimmer, I had issues with it starting this year and took it in for a tune-up. The lawn shop guy said the carb was all gunked up from bad gas. I told him I use stabil every year. He then told me that the formulations of gas change every 6 mos. So if you are using stabil older than 6 mos., it won't be formulated for the gas. He said it's best to run the tanks dry. Or empty and then run until the engine quits. Anyone know if this is true? Or is it a bunch of bunk? ------------- http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=972&sort=&pagenum=4&yrstart=1976&yrend=1980" rel="nofollow - 1978 Nautique FBook - www.facebook.com/charliedontsurfct |
Posted By: David F
Date Posted: August-30-2006 at 9:13am
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I say that is a bunch of bunk. Sure, there are about a 50 different gasoline formulations that change seasonally, but I would be willing to bet that Stabil is Stabil month after month after month. Afterall, gasoline is gasoline with maybe just a bit more or less of certain chemical additives.
Could you imagine the logistics of trying to produce dozens of different Stabil formulas for different parts of the country (States) and then having to worry about seasonal changes as well, not to mention distribution. It wouldn't happen. ------------- |
Posted By: 79nautique
Date Posted: August-30-2006 at 9:57am
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a two cycle motor should be drained of gas or ran until it quits and there is no fuel left. ------------- http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=756&sort=&pagenum=1&yrstart=1979&yrend=1979 - 79 nautique |
Posted By: Hollywood
Date Posted: August-30-2006 at 10:00am
Yeah, just ask our neighbors who have to listen to the snowblower running for 30 minutes in April. ------------- |
79nautique wrote:
Posted By: 79nautique
Date Posted: August-30-2006 at 10:04am
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Got to keep in mind there is oil with the gas on a 2 cycle and the staybil does nothing for it, it only effects the gasoline and prevents it from varnishing and breaking down once other chemicals are in the equation it doesn't work that good. ------------- http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=756&sort=&pagenum=1&yrstart=1979&yrend=1979 - 79 nautique |
Posted By: Mark Mel
Date Posted: August-30-2006 at 10:53am
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Thanks 79 I like that explanation better that the lawn equip guy's. ------------- http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=972&sort=&pagenum=4&yrstart=1976&yrend=1980" rel="nofollow - 1978 Nautique FBook - www.facebook.com/charliedontsurfct |