351w harmonic balancer RR
Printed From: CorrectCraftFan.com
Category: Buy and Sell
Forum Name: Boat Parts Wanted
Forum Discription: Parts wanted only
URL: http://www.CorrectCraftFan.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=46682
Printed Date: April-27-2024 at 4:36pm
Topic: 351w harmonic balancer RR
Posted By: mmasariu
Subject: 351w harmonic balancer RR
Date Posted: August-23-2018 at 8:57pm
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Anyone have a good 351w RR Harmonic balancer on the shelf? Or have a good lead on where I can track one down. Mine outer ring with timing marks has separated and I don’t trust myself with doing a rebuild. Thanks ------------- Matt Masariu Speedway, Indiana 1987 Dominique |
Replies:
Posted By: KENO
Date Posted: August-23-2018 at 9:15pm
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these guys in the link will probably be able to help http://www.damperdudes.net/" rel="nofollow - link Or these guys https://www.damperdoctor.com/" rel="nofollow - link Both places can rebuild what you have now |
Posted By: dwcar
Date Posted: February-17-2019 at 7:16pm
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I am having a new Harmonic balancer built. Talked to Ron today at Damper Dudes. He is asking for a Casting# I can not read what mine is due to corrosion. Anyone have this info for an 83 Ski Nautique?? or know what info I need to give him to get the right one built? ------------- 83Ski |
Posted By: KENO
Date Posted: February-17-2019 at 9:37pm
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The PCM part number which probably won't help at all is R064004. A couple of numbers I have written down are Ford part number C90E-6316-E1 which is for a normal rotation marine 351W with 3 bolt holes for the pulley. I'm looking at one in my hands right now so I'm confident in that number. Since yours is reverse rotation he could work from that part and reverse the timing markings for your Reverse Rotation application. I also have written down D1JE-6316-A1A as being for a RR 351W with 3 bolt holes, but don't have one in front of me to look at, so that might be questionable Edit, I found this one (The D1JE-6316-A1A) and got a look at it and it is for a 351RR I think the Damper Doctor lists one of those, You could have the Dude call the Doctor, it's a local call between them 
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Posted By: dwcar
Date Posted: February-17-2019 at 11:10pm
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Thanks Ken!! ------------- 83Ski |
Posted By: Duane in Indy
Date Posted: February-18-2019 at 10:34am
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If you get an electronic advance timing light then all you need is TDC or "0" Dial in your advance on the light that you want and then it flashes on Zero when you get it set. ALL readings are from Zero on the balancer. No more guess work. My light shows RPM and Timing ------------- Keep it as original as YOU want it 1978 Mustang (modified) |
Posted By: dwcar
Date Posted: February-18-2019 at 2:22pm
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Interesting. I will look into to that Duane. Thanks ------------- 83Ski |
Posted By: Duane in Indy
Date Posted: February-18-2019 at 4:46pm
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This is the one I use. Am sure that there are other makes also that are capable of doing what you need. The beauty of these is that you only have to paint TDC or Zero on the balancer and then everything is read from that line. The light flashes on whatever you set it at and flashes on the TDC line. And the RPMs are on the split screen. https://www.ebay.com/itm/INNOVA-3568-Digital-Timing-Light/273627599124?epid=27016968794&hash=item3fb579d114:g:qtMAAOSwdUJcJCIv:rk:1:pf:0" rel="nofollow - timing light ------------- Keep it as original as YOU want it 1978 Mustang (modified) |
Posted By: dwcar
Date Posted: February-19-2019 at 10:00pm
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Thanks for the info Duane. One more question. Will the bolt in the center of the HB be a lefty loosy or righty loosy ------------- 83Ski |
Posted By: Duane in Indy
Date Posted: February-19-2019 at 10:29pm
Actually a "Righty Tighty" RH thread and most likely TIGHT ------------- Keep it as original as YOU want it 1978 Mustang (modified) |
dwcar wrote:Posted By: KENO
Date Posted: February-20-2019 at 12:00am
So it's a lefty loosey A decent impact wrench will spin it out with no problem at all. The torque spec is 70 to 90 ft lbs. A good puller/installation tool will come in handy too, especially the installation tool. No fair using a hammer and brute force to put the new one on
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Posted By: Duane in Indy
Date Posted: February-20-2019 at 9:03am
Kinda like wiring duplex outlets: Whitey*****Brighty Black*******Gold (like beverly hillbillies oil, black/gold) ------------- Keep it as original as YOU want it 1978 Mustang (modified) |
Posted By: Gary S
Date Posted: February-20-2019 at 11:41pm
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Why Run Backwards You Varmint ------------- http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=1711&sort=&pagenum=1&yrstart=1966&yrend=1970" rel="nofollow - 69 Mustang HM SS 95 Nautique Super Sport |
Posted By: dwcar
Date Posted: February-21-2019 at 2:48pm
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Thanks again guys!! ------------- 83Ski |
Posted By: dwcar
Date Posted: February-25-2019 at 10:39pm
  Couple more questions guys. The new HB is a little thicker. I don't see it being a problem. It is the same height as the old one. Pulley should sit in the same location. Do you agree? The rubber gasket on the end of the shaft is pretty jacked up. Should I replace it? Where do I get one? ------------- 83Ski |
Posted By: TRBenj
Date Posted: February-26-2019 at 12:13am
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The extra thickness is on the backside and may interfere with the timing cover a little (my 302 did and required a little clearancing). Rubber gasket, wtf? |
Posted By: MrMcD
Date Posted: February-26-2019 at 5:09am
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There is a seal in the timing cover that should be replaced. Any parts store would have it on hand or could get it in 1 day for you. National, Fel-Pro or SKF would have them and actually make their parts. Maybe it is a bad picture but it looks like your timing cover is not far from rusting through? ------------- |
Posted By: KENO
Date Posted: February-26-2019 at 9:47am
What he said There's no rubber gasket there. Just the big metal washer and the big bolt. I think I'd be asking the Damper Dude why there's a difference I can take a picture and give you a measurement of the clearance of a stock damper to the timing cover a little later today. Pretty hard to rust through that thick hunk of cast iron, I think you had water leaking down from a leaking water pump for a period of time to cause the rust in the picture. |
Posted By: Duane in Indy
Date Posted: February-26-2019 at 10:02am
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Are they the same ounce counterweight ??? Pic maybe deceiving but they don't look the same. One seems heavier. ------------- Keep it as original as YOU want it 1978 Mustang (modified) |
Posted By: Duane in Indy
Date Posted: February-26-2019 at 10:07am
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Both dampers seat on the surface that the steel scale is sitting on. I don't see where there would be a clearance issue. Everything is referenced from that face. But, I've been wrong before ------------- Keep it as original as YOU want it 1978 Mustang (modified) |
Posted By: phatsat67
Date Posted: February-26-2019 at 10:23am
| That's RTV sealant. Ford used RTV to seal up the nose of the crank to the damper. Every virgin one I have taken apart has has RTV there, They will weep a little oil out onto the damper if you don't use any RTV. Ask me how I know. |
Posted By: JoeinNY
Date Posted: February-26-2019 at 10:23am
The issue can come into play where the thicker outer ring comes into contact with timing cover before the surface you reference can seat firmly on the crank. I seem to recall needing to grind around the base of the timing pointer a few times. Otherwise you crank the damper on and find that your engine doesn't seem to roll over to quickly. I assume thats just nasty sludge or RTV on the front of that crank. I get my engines mixed up lately but I believe in addition to the new seal referenced above on the timing cover you also need to put some thread sealant on that bolt if you want to keep oil from leaking out around the threads - so that gunk maybe what was thrown at that. ------------- http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=1477 - 1983 Ski Nautique 2001 1967 Mustang 302 "Decoy" http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cO5MkcBXBBs - Holeshot Video |
Posted By: Duane in Indy
Date Posted: February-26-2019 at 10:33am
 ------------- Keep it as original as YOU want it 1978 Mustang (modified) |
Posted By: KENO
Date Posted: February-26-2019 at 12:07pm
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Here's a picture taken from the side There is about 1 1/16 inches clearance on the stock balancer ring before it would contact anything on the timing cover. On the hub, there is about 3/8 inch clearance before it would hit in the seal area. So it sure looks like the new one wouldn't have any clearance issues. One question though, is the new on drilled for mounting the 3 hole pulley like you have? Later ones were 4 bolt I'd check with the Damper Dude on the imbalance being the same just to be sure . 
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Posted By: KENO
Date Posted: March-03-2019 at 4:41pm
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I figured I'd add a part number for a balancer that's the same as the original for a 351W that takes a 3 bolt pulley. That's a 351W up to 1993. After 1993 it was a different balancer which was used with a 4 bolt pulley. The timing marks are for a normal rotation engine so if you have a reverse rotation you can mark it as necessary A Dayco PB 1008N balancer sells for 61 bucks plus shipping from Rock Auto. You can find cheaper ones and more expensive ones at Rock Auto but I have this one in my grubby little hands to compare to a stock one
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Posted By: dwcar
Date Posted: March-03-2019 at 11:38pm
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I talked to the Damper Dude. He does not think I will have any clearance problems. It is a 3 bolt. I have removed the timing cover and there is a little slack or looseness in my chain. Should I replace or do you think it is ok?? %20" rel="nofollow - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ehmGUbLKOXY&feature=youtu.be ------------- 83Ski |
Posted By: KENO
Date Posted: March-04-2019 at 7:37am
You could get all kinds of opinions on whether it's too loose or not, but I'd replace the timing set because in the video it looks like the cam gear is one of the aluminum gears with nylon coated teeth that were used for a number of years. They will eventually start to spit the nylon off the gear. You could use either a double roller or a silent replacement set. You don't need anything fancy, just standard replacement After the new timing set is installed, do the same video and post it for a comparison of the slack You wouldn't want your gear to look like this semi toothless wonder. It's a GM gear, but you get the idea. Those missing chunks end up in the oil system and the timing is more than a little erratic 
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Posted By: Donald78
Date Posted: March-04-2019 at 2:10pm
| Hello I have a 351 rr parts |
Posted By: Donald78
Date Posted: March-04-2019 at 2:37pm
| I have what your looking for pm me |
Posted By: dwcar
Date Posted: March-04-2019 at 9:59pm
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Don78. Can you post pictures of what you have? ------------- 83Ski |