Stringer/ floor replacement- wood vs glass
Printed From: CorrectCraftFan.com
Category: Repairs and Maintenance
Forum Name: Boat Maintenance
Forum Discription: Discuss maintenance of your Correct Craft
URL: http://www.CorrectCraftFan.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=46794
Printed Date: April-29-2024 at 5:30am
Topic: Stringer/ floor replacement- wood vs glass
Posted By: Laheyth
Subject: Stringer/ floor replacement- wood vs glass
Date Posted: September-08-2018 at 7:45pm
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I am planning to replace the rotten floor and stringers in my 84 Nautique. I plan to use epoxy resin, it is stronger. I would like to hear feedback with regard to using glass stringers instead of wood .. similar to new builds what do they use for the floors now?...hoping not plywood. I dont consider cost as an issue, .....do it right and do it once. Tom |
Replies:
Posted By: gun-driver
Date Posted: September-08-2018 at 8:11pm
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The floor is the same as yours, glass over foam. The structure underneath is what’s different. Since costisn’t an option I would go coosa board. If it were me (and I already did my ‘85) I would go wood and epoxy, your stringers lasted 34 years how much longer do you expect the boat to last? Here is a pic from the ‘95 brochure of the newer stringers 
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Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: September-08-2018 at 8:19pm
Tom, I pretty much agree with Paul to go wood. I feel it's easier and with a CPES treatment it will last way longer than the 34 years on the boat now. ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
gun-driver wrote:Posted By: TRBenj
Date Posted: September-08-2018 at 8:37pm
Seems that someone with experience doing both might be in a better position to weigh in on which is “easier”. |
Posted By: KENO
Date Posted: September-08-2018 at 9:58pm
Maybe that person should weigh in then 
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Posted By: Laheyth
Date Posted: September-08-2018 at 10:57pm
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I dont see why wood is easier, please explain your thoughts. -Tools should be the same -weight may be a bit different -wood may act more of a vibration damper? It just seems to me the coosa and epoxy, once done, its done. CEPS is not cheap either and that whole wood soaking effort is avoided with coosa.. I am thinking to leave the boat on the trailer, do you think it will need more support? The boat is already a family heirloom....want it to last a 100 years!! It has 2480 hr on the engine, time to go through it as well, but she still runs 44mph at 4400 rpm.....starting to smoke a bit. |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: September-09-2018 at 12:05am
Tim, I didn't know you were so knowledgeable with all the projects I've done through the years.
------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: KENO
Date Posted: September-09-2018 at 9:36am
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Is this the same floor and stringer project you posted questions about back in 2008? Reading your last post yesterday, it seems like you want to do Coosa and if you do wood you won't ever be happy. Here's a link to every thread on CCF with the word "Coosa" in it. It should keep you reading for a while https://www.google.com/search?q=correctcraftfan+coosa&rlz=1C1FLDB_enUS639US639&oq=correctcraftfan+coosa&aqs=chrome..69i57.4245j0j4&sourceid=chrome&ie=UTF-8" rel="nofollow - link |
Posted By: TRBenj
Date Posted: September-10-2018 at 10:55am
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Pete, tell us about the composite stringer rebuilds you have done... I don’t recall you sharing the step by steps on CCF. While the structure itself tends to be somewhat more complex on a composite rebuild, that isn’t to say that composites are harder to work with. It’s more the nature of the packaging- materials that come in 4x8 sheets (1/2”-3/4” thick) need to be multi pieced in length and thickness for main stringers, for instance. Upsides for foam/glass type composites (like Coosa or airex) include easy shaping, and insensitivy to moisture. No worries of existing moisture content or pre-treating with cpes. No tendencies to warp, cup or bow, etc. That’s in addition to the obvious upsides of being lighter weight (by ~1/3 for Coosa) and rot resistance. |
Posted By: KENO
Date Posted: September-10-2018 at 11:48am
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I wood have jumped in on this thread but I just now found out that wood grows on trees
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Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: September-10-2018 at 12:49pm
Tim,I haven't done any ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: September-10-2018 at 1:09pm
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Tom, When I said wood is easier, I should have used different wording like less time consuming. Going composite is certainly a great option but so is wood. I have nothing against ether one. The composite will take more time since as Tim mentioned the available lengths require laminating multiple layers so the butt ends are staggered. This also requires more epoxy and glass and cost that would offset the cost of using a CPES on a wood job. Then understand that extra work is needed in areas like the engine cradle where lag bolts would normally work in wood. Through bolting or blocking is needed with the composite. Regarding the cost of the CPES, I'm confused:
An option with purchsed CPES is to make your own. ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |