1982 SN 2001 Stuck on the water!
Printed From: CorrectCraftFan.com
Category: Repairs and Maintenance
Forum Name: Engine Repair
Forum Discription: Engine problems and solutions
URL: http://www.CorrectCraftFan.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=46823
Printed Date: April-29-2024 at 9:31am
Topic: 1982 SN 2001 Stuck on the water!
Posted By: mattradintz
Subject: 1982 SN 2001 Stuck on the water!
Date Posted: September-17-2018 at 2:40pm
| Looking for some assistance. Have a new to me 1982 Ski Nautique 2001. Second time on the water on Saturday, ran great for an hour, pulling tube and wakeboard, then killed taking off and wouldn’t restart . Let it sit for a few minutes and fired back up. This happened the first time we took it out too. Since I purchased, my mechanic has cleaned up connections and charged the battery, rebuilt alternator, replaced ignition coil with Sierra 18-5433, checked the water-impeller and run on the hose to determine carb internal condition, rebuilt the carburetor, went back to a points distributor vs electronic that had failed. Thoughts? Seems to me the coil might be overheating....do I need a different type of coil for the points. I might be completely off on my logic though, I am no mechanic! Thanks in advance!!! |
Replies:
Posted By: MourningWood
Date Posted: September-17-2018 at 6:07pm
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Certainly no expert here, but helped a buddy with these symptoms, and found: Yes, the coil is "points" specific, needing the correct ohm readout. And be sure it can be safely mounted horizontally, if yours is. Also, points ignition relies on the ballast resistor, which is often omitted or bypassed with electronic ignition like Pertronix And, the contacts on back of ignition switch may be loose/dirty. Hope that helps ------------- 1994 Ski Nautique "Riot" 1964 Dunphy X-55 "One 'N Dun" 'I measured twice, cut three times, and it's still too short!" |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: September-17-2018 at 6:16pm
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Matt, Define "wouldn't start" IE: the engine wouldn't crank/turn over or wouldn't fire/run. I ask since you mentioned the battery, cable connections and the alternator. ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: mattradintz
Date Posted: September-17-2018 at 9:26pm
| The engine would crank but wouldn’t fire. |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: September-18-2018 at 11:12am
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Matt, When the boat dies, are you getting power to the coil? That guy you have working on the problem sure has been throwing the parts at it and in all directions!! Maybe a second opinion would help? Where in Wi. are you? ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: KENO
Date Posted: September-18-2018 at 11:57am
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Here's a wiring diagram that should be accurate for your 82. Your Sierra coil should work just fine with points as long as you have a ballast resistor in the wiring to the coil. That's if the resistor is good It should have a resistance of about 1.2 to 1.3 ohms. If you don't have a resistor because it was removed when there was an electronic distributor installed you can get one at any NAPA. It's an Echlin ICR-23 and costs under 10 bucks. Coils can get hot normally and work just fine. Have you checked to see if you still have spark when it's not starting? And..................about the time you're convinced it's an ignition problem, it just might turn out to be fuel related  
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Posted By: mattradintz
Date Posted: September-18-2018 at 12:33pm
To the mechanics defense, the issue happened after the parts were replaced. I bought the boat in August and it was not in running condition. He is a marine mechanics with 30 years experience too. Always been good to me before, Western Wisconsin, about 45 minutes straight east of Minneapolis/St. Paul MN. |
8122pbrainard wrote:Posted By: mattradintz
Date Posted: September-18-2018 at 12:35pm
It does have a ballast resistor wired in. I haven't check for spark when it wasn't starting. Hopefully, I can track down the problem. Seems to be a pretty common one..... |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: September-18-2018 at 1:05pm
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Matt, Double check the ballast resister is wired in correctly after the EI conversion was removed. 45 east of Minneapolis/St. Paul puts you at Menomonie. I spent my first year of collage at Stout. Hated the place!!  ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: mattradintz
Date Posted: September-18-2018 at 1:18pm
| Haha! Little town, Glenwood City, WI. |
Posted By: mattradintz
Date Posted: September-18-2018 at 1:51pm
| Resistance is between 1.1 and 1.4 ohms. |
Posted By: mattradintz
Date Posted: September-18-2018 at 2:11pm
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Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: September-18-2018 at 2:12pm
Have you checked the volts going to the coil. It should be around 9. How's the condition of the points? Closed you should get a near zero Ohm reading. ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: mattradintz
Date Posted: September-18-2018 at 2:37pm
| When I check the voltage going to the coil with the ignition on but not running. I only get 5.63 volts. Points are brand new. |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: September-18-2018 at 2:57pm
The 5.6 sounds like the points are closed so you will get a lower reading plus there's a load from the electric choke.. New points out of the box still may need some cleaning of the contact faces and the reason I suggesting getting an Ohm reading across them. If you don't get that near zero Ohm reading, run some fine abrasive paper like 1000 grit through the points when they are in the closed position. Alignment of the contact faces is also important. Did you install a new condenser at the same time? ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: mattradintz
Date Posted: September-18-2018 at 3:02pm
| Thoughts on converting to EI? |
Posted By: mattradintz
Date Posted: September-18-2018 at 3:04pm
|
I am no mechanic and want the least maintenance and highest reliability. I hear I can convert for like 150.00 |
Posted By: Hollywood
Date Posted: September-18-2018 at 3:29pm
| Convert to a running engine first |
Posted By: mattradintz
Date Posted: September-18-2018 at 3:38pm
| Hollywood, it runs fine for an hour under load, then struggles. Just hoping the conversion might be the fix..... |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: September-18-2018 at 3:51pm
I've gone many years without touching point set or even looking at them. Others have too:
There are millions of hours out there on point sets and not as many on EI conversions. They have been know to fail. Yours did!!! Your mechanic went back to points!! Yes, find the problem first. I don't feel dropping in a conversion is going to solve it. Just as Ken always likes to say, you think it's ignition related and it turns out to be fuel. You mention it will run for some time and then quit. Take a look at the anti-siphon valve on the fuel tank. ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: mattradintz
Date Posted: September-18-2018 at 5:02pm
| Sounds good! There are so many mixed reviews out there about points vs electronic systems, just didn't know.Thanks again! |
Posted By: 63 Skier
Date Posted: September-18-2018 at 5:50pm
I got a chuckle out of that.  I'm a long time points ignition owner, know how to install and adjust them. Still, I had a no start a few weeks ago and had to ask for advice here, a few good suggestions and I was running again. Points are easy to diagnose and once you've done it, easy to set up and adjust. ------------- '63 American Skier - '98 Sport Nautique |