56-Atom next steps help
Printed From: CorrectCraftFan.com
Category: General Correct Craft Discussion
Forum Name: General Discussion
Forum Discription: Anything Correct Craft
URL: http://www.CorrectCraftFan.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=46946
Printed Date: April-23-2024 at 11:04pm
Topic: 56-Atom next steps help
Posted By: 56-Atom
Subject: 56-Atom next steps help
Date Posted: October-26-2018 at 6:12pm
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New to the forum but have used it as a reference for the last couple of years. Thank You! I have a 1956 Atom Skier, the original owner was my dad and friend. The friend handed the boat over to my brother in 1990. I now have taken over the project of rehab and hope to do an inaugural launch next summer. Goal 1 is to have it run and give the grandkids a ride around the lake. Goal 2 is to attend some boat shows when I retire in 10 years pending my kid's college expense. I am not a mechanic or carpenter, I'm a high school principal who likes to tinker on projects. I', open to buying quality and learning how to install myself. Just don't want to break anything. Boat looks in pretty good shape, but I would like to have you veterans ask questions or advise me to consider items of priority. General comments and pics to give you an idea of the scope of the project: 1. The boat floats with only leak coming in through drive shaft log. I repacked it. 2. The engine now runs, with concern the temp gauge does not move until I have it up to 2500 RPMs. Have not aligned the drive shaft to the engine yet. 3. Original 6-volt system, generator, wire harness. I have to start it with a 12-volt jump, but it runs fine, and generator pushes amps at 12/14 ohms 4. Outside hull has been repainted recently 5. Nothing was done with top deck, considering repairs or replace? 6. Back transom was glassed by my dad after several years of water ski action. 7. Original trailer now has new wheels and bearings 8. I think I need to instal a bilge run off a separate 12-volt system.     ------------- 56-Atom https://www.facebook.com/media/set/edit/a.1729455880510267/ |
Replies:
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: October-26-2018 at 6:40pm
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John, Welcome to posting. I've caught you on site a couple times. Your screen name drew my attention and I was wondering when we'd see something from you. #2 - Some older marine engines didn't have T stats so it takes some time for them to warm up. What you are getting is normal. #3 - You should not need a 12 volt jump to crank that engine. Check the condition of your battery, the battery cables and their terminations. #5&6 - From the picture, it does look like the deck will need new ply at some time. When you dig into it, that's the time to get the glass off the transom and replace the ply there. #8 - You should have a siphon bailer near the transom typically on the port side. They do work but if your hull is in good condition like you have said, it shouldn't be needed. I do not have a bilge pump in my Atom. A ply boat doesn't leak if it's sound. Keep the pictures coming as well as any questions you may have. ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: October-26-2018 at 9:32pm
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John, Here's the siphon bailer you should have.  ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: juniorwoody
Date Posted: October-26-2018 at 10:23pm
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Not a big fan of those auto balers Pete. Like to hear what others feel about them. Considering leaving mine out on the 1950. ------------- The value of money spent on new adventure far exceeds the value of money saved for the future |
Posted By: 56-Atom
Date Posted: October-27-2018 at 12:31am
I have it ------------- 56-Atom https://www.facebook.com/media/set/edit/a.1729455880510267/ |
Posted By: 56-Atom
Date Posted: October-28-2018 at 8:26pm
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For this year I am hoping to patch the deck problem areas and then do the new ply next fall/winter. Is there a good way to patch the deck areas?  ------------- 56-Atom https://www.facebook.com/media/set/edit/a.1729455880510267/ |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: October-28-2018 at 8:40pm
Not really but for a temporary until you put some new ply on the deck, I's go with http://eclecticproducts.com/products/famowood/famowood-original-wood-filler.html" rel="nofollow - original Famowood. ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
56-Atom wrote:Posted By: juniorwoody
Date Posted: October-28-2018 at 9:35pm
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Must be coming into some good weather. As Pete says the patch will work great short term. Was there no detail routed into the 1956 on the deck, I wonder. Also I noticed that it looks to be 3/8 plywood on there. Is that true. That's what ours has. At some point they went to 1/4 unless both of ours have been replaced along the way. ------------- The value of money spent on new adventure far exceeds the value of money saved for the future |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: October-28-2018 at 9:56pm
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Jack, The deck is 1/4" but the fore deck where it overhangs aft into the cockpit is doubled up with two layers of 1/4". John, Note that I stated "temporary" for the patch. You will need to get several coats of spar varnish on the deck and filler. ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: 56-Atom
Date Posted: October-28-2018 at 10:12pm
  A couple of other pics to give you an idea what I have. It looks to be 1/4  Sales Brochure ( I have all the original sale paperwork) identifies the construction  Thanks for the help, as I want to attempt to replace to original specs next year. ------------- 56-Atom https://www.facebook.com/media/set/edit/a.1729455880510267/ |
Posted By: 56-Atom
Date Posted: November-04-2018 at 9:08pm
Winterized and pulled motor. Inspected the strut and is square to hull. Cutlas bearing is a 4" seated aft on strut. Seems to allow for some play with shaft laying on lower side of log. I will plan to replace. Is 4" bearing the proper setup? I see 2" and 6" bearings available.  ------------- 56-Atom https://www.facebook.com/media/set/edit/a.1729455880510267/ |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: November-04-2018 at 10:52pm
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John, https://www.deepblueyachtsupply.com/naval-brass-inch-bearings" rel="nofollow - The 4" cutlass would be the original length. ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: 56-Atom
Date Posted: November-06-2018 at 9:42pm
Inspected the shaft. Seems to not be set correctly. The historic sales receipts indicate it was purchased in 1978. 40'x1'.  recommendations? Pull and reset? Go with a new shaft set-up? ------------- 56-Atom https://www.facebook.com/media/set/edit/a.1729455880510267/ |
Posted By: ArtCozier
Date Posted: November-06-2018 at 10:18pm
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Hey Pete, what do you do if you have only a siphon bailer and you are broken down in the middle of the lake? I suggest a Whale pump for a backup! ------------- "Art" |
Posted By: Gary S
Date Posted: November-06-2018 at 10:41pm
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They just wait until the sun goes down and the water freezes again and then just walk home Art. ------------- http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=1711&sort=&pagenum=1&yrstart=1966&yrend=1970" rel="nofollow - 69 Mustang HM SS 95 Nautique Super Sport |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: November-06-2018 at 11:24pm
Broken down as an engine failure or broken down as a big hole in the boat? If the engine quits, there's always a paddle. If there's a big hole in the boat, then there are life preservers!  If you carry a Whale pump, then you must ether be prone to hitting things or are out in a boat that's not is very good shape.  ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: November-07-2018 at 7:50am
John, What specifically are you concerned with the existing shaft? What's not set correctly? The alignment? ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: ArtCozier
Date Posted: November-07-2018 at 11:19am
Lol! Anyone who knows what a Whale Pump is must have been in boating for a lo-o-ong time! ------------- "Art" |
Posted By: 56-Atom
Date Posted: November-07-2018 at 2:17pm
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The shaft and coupler are 40 years old at best estimate. The coupler is not seated flush with end of shaft at this time, about .20 overhang of the coupler. Specific question for forum members: Is a 40 yr old shaft and coupler a concern and should I just invest in new shaft and coupler? Or Shaft and coupler are timeless and I should pull coupler, make sure shaft is true and re-set coupler assuming the heat coupler in the oven is preferred method. Thank for your advice. ------------- 56-Atom https://www.facebook.com/media/set/edit/a.1729455880510267/ |
Posted By: SNobsessed
Date Posted: November-07-2018 at 3:00pm
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Does the .o2 stickout interfere with the other coupler? If so, why not just grind it flush? Seems like that would be a lot less work. You can check runout with the coupler on. ------------- “Beer is proof that God loves us and wants us to be happy.” Ben Franklin |
Posted By: ArtCozier
Date Posted: November-07-2018 at 3:07pm
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If it doesn't touch the transmission output shaft, no worries. Put a piece of tape on the end of the shaft (in the middle of the transmission coupler, push the other half of the coupler up tight to its mate, Then look at the tape for a mark. No mark, leave it alone. What is important is that the coupler be tight on the prop shaft, no movement whatsoever between the two coupler halves. ------------- "Art" |
Posted By: 56-Atom
Date Posted: November-07-2018 at 3:30pm
Yes, the .20 does not allow for couplers to be connected and set screw (picks added) is offset as well.   ------------- 56-Atom https://www.facebook.com/media/set/edit/a.1729455880510267/ |
Posted By: 56-Atom
Date Posted: November-07-2018 at 3:38pm
The overhang of prop shaft does not allow two couplers to mate. I thought this might be due to a bad alignment, then I removed engine and prop shaft to take a closer look. ------------- 56-Atom https://www.facebook.com/media/set/edit/a.1729455880510267/ |
Posted By: ArtCozier
Date Posted: November-07-2018 at 4:21pm
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There's your problem. The index dimples in the shaft are not lined up with the setscrew holes. The shaft has moved forward in the coupler half. The procedure is to put the setscrews in just a bit more than hand-tight, then tap the coupler a bit in each direction, parallel to the shaft. The sets will loosen up a bit. Repeat that process over and over until you reach the desired torque on the setscrews. ------------- "Art" |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: November-07-2018 at 4:38pm
John, If the coupling half can be moved by tapping, then the fit is bad. The copling bore to the prop shaft is a interference fit. The coupling needs to be ether pressed on/off or heated. ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: 56-Atom
Date Posted: November-07-2018 at 6:26pm
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Sounds like the 40 yr old shaft/coupler is worth some time to attempt the tap test and or pressing into position. Then I'll check the shaft. Thanks for the wisdom. Still trying to catch the humor behind the whale pump, but I am sure being new to the forum has it's learning curve. ------------- 56-Atom https://www.facebook.com/media/set/edit/a.1729455880510267/ |
Posted By: ArtCozier
Date Posted: November-07-2018 at 6:37pm
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Whale is a brand name for an old-fashioned plunger type pump that has been manufactured for many, many years. The originals were a brass cylinder with the plunger and valves inside. It looks a lot like an old-fashioned bicycle pump, and because of its simplicity it's virtually failure-proof. You don't see them much anymore. Pete and I have fun needling each other occasionally. Welcome to the website! ------------- "Art" |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: November-07-2018 at 7:25pm
 ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: ArtCozier
Date Posted: November-07-2018 at 8:24pm
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Yup, that's it. Mine is a modern version in plastic and it doesn't have the stand-on pedal to hold it in place. ------------- "Art" |
Posted By: Orlando76
Date Posted: November-07-2018 at 8:37pm
------------- Please support The Cystic Fibrosis Foundation 1976 Ski Nautique 351 Escort 1993 Ski Nautique purple and black 351 HO PCM |
Posted By: 56-Atom
Date Posted: November-07-2018 at 9:06pm
Did some research via 1959 boat catalogue that came with my 56-Atom. Don't think they will still have them in stock.   ------------- 56-Atom https://www.facebook.com/media/set/edit/a.1729455880510267/ |
Posted By: 56-Atom
Date Posted: November-07-2018 at 11:15pm
Coupling half moved with tapping. Actually, it fell right off with pre-treat with wd40 and a pressed it right off. I then was able to slide it back on by hand with minimal taps to position that allows set screw (only 1) to engage fully. Now shaft is recessed into coupling and mates up with the output shaft.  ArtCozier-sound good? SNobsessed -I will check the shaft next 8122pbrainard-assume you suggest I go coupler or shaft shopping or both ------------- 56-Atom https://www.facebook.com/media/set/edit/a.1729455880510267/ |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: November-08-2018 at 7:06am
John, If the shaft is straight (max runout .003") then I would replace the coupling. They will bore it per the shaft OD. https://www.generalpropeller.com/inboard-shafts-and-couplings" rel="nofollow - General Propeller would be my choice. Check the shaft. Chances are high that the boat was run with a misaligned shaft that fretted the fit between the coupling and shaft. ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: 56-Atom
Date Posted: November-12-2018 at 10:13pm
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This is the reply I received from Paul at General Propeller. Any advice on how I should reply regarding transmission make and model? I am concerned about the coupling. It is not one we stock and I am not sure if it’s available. Do you know the Make and model of the transmission? We can compensate for the thread body length. Regards, Paul Fox PaulF@gpcprop.com General Propeller Company, Inc. ------------- 56-Atom https://www.facebook.com/media/set/edit/a.1729455880510267/ |
Posted By: Gary S
Date Posted: November-12-2018 at 10:34pm
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Post up a picture of your trans ------------- http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=1711&sort=&pagenum=1&yrstart=1966&yrend=1970" rel="nofollow - 69 Mustang HM SS 95 Nautique Super Sport |
Posted By: ArtCozier
Date Posted: November-12-2018 at 10:35pm
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In one of your early posts I recall seeing the very tail end of the transmission just ahead of the coupler, and I thought at the time that it is probably an early Warner Gear, probably an AS1-70C. If you can post a photo of it, I can probably tell you for sure what it is. ------------- "Art" |
Posted By: 56-Atom
Date Posted: November-12-2018 at 10:42pm
 ------------- 56-Atom https://www.facebook.com/media/set/edit/a.1729455880510267/ |
Posted By: ArtCozier
Date Posted: November-12-2018 at 10:49pm
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Does the tag say Paragon at the top? If so, that's what it is; a Model 70. When I enlarge the photo I can't read it. ------------- "Art" |
Posted By: ArtCozier
Date Posted: November-12-2018 at 10:56pm
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Got it now, it says "Graymarine" That of course is the engine brand. I don't know for sure whether they built transmissions. The squarish top cover suggests Paragon to me. Could be that it was a Paragon built and they had an agreement with Gray to rebrand it. A close-up of that tag would help. ------------- "Art" |
Posted By: 56-Atom
Date Posted: November-12-2018 at 11:04pm
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Nothing says Paragon. Number on tag is #G19238. Number stamped on end of trans is OXK 22 (i think). Book says max horsepower at rpm 70/3400. Found information in owners manual about Paragon Gear and also has information on Capital Gear. ------------- 56-Atom https://www.facebook.com/media/set/edit/a.1729455880510267/ |
Posted By: 56-Atom
Date Posted: November-12-2018 at 11:12pm
 ------------- 56-Atom https://www.facebook.com/media/set/edit/a.1729455880510267/ |
Posted By: ArtCozier
Date Posted: November-12-2018 at 11:39pm
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Interesting that the cable for what is probably a mechanical tachometer comes off of the transmission. I've never seen that arrangement before. The inside sure does look like a Paragon. Does anything say how to adjust the clutches? A Paragon has a bolt with a 5/8" head that you take out and that allows you to tighten up the clutch pack to compensate for wear. The lubrication comes from the engine oil, there is an opening from the transmission sump into the engine oil pan. Is there any information at all about the transmission on the tag on the cover plate? ------------- "Art" |
Posted By: 56-Atom
Date Posted: November-13-2018 at 12:00am
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Yes, the cable runs to dash tac. The owners manual speaks of a Forward Adjustment Lockscrew. Lubrications does come from engine oil. Nothing on the tag on cover plate regarding transmission. ------------- 56-Atom https://www.facebook.com/media/set/edit/a.1729455880510267/ |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: November-13-2018 at 6:56am
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John, I'm pretty sure the coupling is a Buck Algonquin 3 bolt commonly used on Universals Atomic 4 engine. Get back to General with the OD and the OD of the pilot. https://www.generalpropeller.com/3-410-flange-for-atomic-4" rel="nofollow - 3 bolt couplings from General Propeller Those are Paragon guts in a Gray casing. If the trans "knuckles" over when you push the shift lever forward, don't mess with the adjustment. If it doesn't, then tighten the pack ONE NOTCH ONLY. ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: ArtCozier
Date Posted: November-13-2018 at 10:36am
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Great information, Pete. I agree, it must be a Paragon built for Gray. My experience with Paragon mechanical transmissions is that they are practically indestructible. ------------- "Art" |
Posted By: 56-Atom
Date Posted: November-13-2018 at 10:53am
Thanks Pete, Does this mean I have a solid coupling and not a taper. This may answer why I can slip it on by hand. ? ------------- 56-Atom https://www.facebook.com/media/set/edit/a.1729455880510267/ |
Posted By: ArtCozier
Date Posted: November-13-2018 at 1:30pm
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Your coupling is definitely NOT a tapered fit. As Pete said, the shaft is entirely too loose in the coupler, A tapered coupling and shaft would be a good update to have if you have to replace them. General Prop can probably make it for you. They offer a 3/4" bore straight coupler, so it could be made into a taper in their machine shop if your shaft is 1 inch. ------------- "Art" |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: November-13-2018 at 5:07pm
------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: 56-Atom
Date Posted: November-17-2018 at 6:09pm
Did some hull underside inspection today. Noticed oily water seeping. The boat has not been run in years, I did set the engine and got it started, floated boat a couple of times but did not notice any oil leaks. Is this common or do I have an oil reservoir in my hidden bildge space? Recommendations?  ------------- 56-Atom https://www.facebook.com/media/set/edit/a.1729455880510267/ |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: November-17-2018 at 6:23pm
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John, From the color of the oil, it sure looks pretty fresh. Take another look at the engine. If it isn't obvious where the oil is coming from, place some cardboard under it and give it a couple days and then look again for areas that show the oil. Congrats on getting the engine started. Any problems? ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: 56-Atom
Date Posted: November-17-2018 at 6:53pm
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Pete, thanks for the quick reply! I had pulled the engine after winterizing, as part of my shaft alignment project. I took a quick look under the engine and sure enough I had drips accumulated under engine block. Perhaps it did the same while in boat this past year. Problems getting engine started? I wish I could post a video of it finally firing up! Had to have starter rebuilt and after figuring the throttle body, engine idle, and choke out she fired up after a hour of tinkering around. I floated it and water pump pulled great etc...Then I realized I had plug wires wrong and only running on 1 cyl. Reordered and fired up all four cyl with great amazement from me and my 16 year old what all 70 horses sound and feel like.! Just need to check cables and get the 6volt to turn it over. ------------- 56-Atom https://www.facebook.com/media/set/edit/a.1729455880510267/ |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: November-17-2018 at 8:35pm
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John, There isn't an engine that doesn't leak some oil at one time or another. The older the era of the engine, the worse they leak. I have a thought and that's when you put the boat in the water, the aft end of it and the engine were low which would cause the oil level to go high aft. When you had the inspection plate off the trans, what was the condition of the gasket? When you found the oil on the engine, was it aft? ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: 56-Atom
Date Posted: November-17-2018 at 9:48pm
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The boat ramp was a pretty steep one and the gasket is old and brittle, on my list to replace. That was most likely it. When I checked the engine recently it was dead center on engine case that is now sitting level on a cart. I just may have not tightened the oil plug tight after we did the oil change when out of the boat. ------------- 56-Atom https://www.facebook.com/media/set/edit/a.1729455880510267/ |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: November-17-2018 at 10:01pm
John, When you did the oil change, did you suck the oil with a vacuum extractor? It's easier than draining with the drain plug. Also, it's typical to open up the trans cover and suck it as well. You can get almost an additional pint out of it. ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: November-17-2018 at 10:06pm
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John, What oil did you use? It's VERY important that you use an oil with high ZDDP content. Modern oils do not have it anymore. I use Valvolene VR1 20-50 but there are others with the ZDDP levels your flat tappet engine needs. If you didn't use an oil with ZDDP, do NOT run the engine. ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: 56-Atom
Date Posted: November-17-2018 at 10:07pm
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Pete, since I had the motor out on the cart I just drained it out of the lower drain plug and then rocked it back and forth/side to side getting the last of the old oil out. ------------- 56-Atom https://www.facebook.com/media/set/edit/a.1729455880510267/ |
Posted By: 56-Atom
Date Posted: November-17-2018 at 10:14pm
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This is a link to the "first run" Not sure if it will be viewable but thought I would give it a try. https://drive.google.com/file/d/1PaSyZtkbR_iwwLNm7rU9cA4y7GUzVP09/view?usp=sharing ------------- 56-Atom https://www.facebook.com/media/set/edit/a.1729455880510267/ |
Posted By: 56-Atom
Date Posted: November-17-2018 at 10:41pm
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Mobile1 30. I’ll change it out before starting in the spring. Thanks! ------------- 56-Atom https://www.facebook.com/media/set/edit/a.1729455880510267/ |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: November-18-2018 at 5:58am
John, I went searching for ZDDP levels in Mobile1 30 weight and can't find Mobile1 made in any straight weight's. Are you sure it's straight 30? Maybe I didn't search enough? Anyway, you are probably going by recommended oil that's in a manual or on a name plate. Keep in mind that info is very dated back in the days when multi viscosity oils weren't invented yet. The benefits of multi viscosity oils have been proven and they will benefit old engines too. ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: ArtCozier
Date Posted: November-18-2018 at 10:26am
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I add ZDDP additive whenever I use conventional motor oil in a flat-tappet engine. I'm told that Shell Rotella oil marked "Diesel and Marine" has adequate zinc to protect older cams and lifters. I have not looked it up. ------------- "Art" |
Posted By: 56-Atom
Date Posted: November-18-2018 at 10:35am
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Thanks for the info. I will look around and change out for the spring start-up. Any reason to add the zink additive now for the winter storage? I appreciate all of the wisdom, care and attention this forum shares as I wish not to damage this piece of family history...that also needs to pull some skiers as it was built to do! ------------- 56-Atom https://www.facebook.com/media/set/edit/a.1729455880510267/ |
Posted By: 56-Atom
Date Posted: November-18-2018 at 11:07am
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I'll attempt to share a few links of the motor running: if this does not work I will attempt to share a facebook link First fire up: Pardon the excitement https://drive.google.com/file/d/1PaSyZtkbR_iwwLNm7rU9cA4y7GUzVP09/view?usp=sharing First Float running one 1 cyl https://drive.google.com/file/d/1hKE34yeOkkBJRWl0FGOoWTdYA-T7ufJF/view?usp=sharing 2nd float w/ four cyl fired up: https://drive.google.com/file/d/1TKkFaSF5qUPZxMTsQbKTHLVKPNRLSpRP/view?usp=sharing ------------- 56-Atom https://www.facebook.com/media/set/edit/a.1729455880510267/ |
Posted By: 56-Atom
Date Posted: November-18-2018 at 11:48am
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Attempting a facebook link: https://www.facebook.com/media/set/?set=a.1729455880510267&type=1&l=0b02f55d2f ------------- 56-Atom https://www.facebook.com/media/set/edit/a.1729455880510267/ |
Posted By: 56-Atom
Date Posted: December-06-2018 at 8:38pm
staying with 6-volt system and wondering if "original" fuse panel is safe or should I upgrade?  ------------- 56-Atom https://www.facebook.com/media/set/edit/a.1729455880510267/ |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: December-06-2018 at 9:19pm
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John, The fuse panel is not original. They weren't fusing any electrics back then. Why do you feel it's unsafe? If anything, it makes the boat safer. Keep it. BTW, for those of you who are ACBS "naysayers", adding fusing is NOT a point deduction in a judged show.  ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: 56-Atom
Date Posted: December-06-2018 at 10:38pm
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Thanks Pete, That would explain why a closer look reveals turn signals, heater/AC ect.... looks like it car off a car panel. ------------- 56-Atom https://www.facebook.com/media/set/edit/a.1729455880510267/ |
Posted By: SNobsessed
Date Posted: December-06-2018 at 10:51pm
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Any points-off for wire ties? ------------- “Beer is proof that God loves us and wants us to be happy.” Ben Franklin |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: December-07-2018 at 7:24am
John, It's not a panel off a car. It's a Stewart Warner marine panel. EDIT: John, Sorry, I misunderstood your post. I was too focused on the gauge panel. Yes, the fuse panel could have been made for a car but as mentioned, the gauge panel is a Stewart Warner. ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: 56-Atom
Date Posted: July-10-2019 at 6:01pm
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Boat update: 1956 Atom was launched last week with several days of cruising around Silver Lake, Michigan. We even pulled up my 18 yr old son up on 2 and dropped 1). More adjustments I am sure will come as she tops out at 2500 RPM's at this time. Thanks for all the help on this project. ------------- 56-Atom https://www.facebook.com/media/set/edit/a.1729455880510267/ |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: July-10-2019 at 6:07pm
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John, You should be getting at least another 1000 RPM. What prop (dia. and pitch) is on the boat? Have you set the timing? Setting the timing on the old flat heads is easy. All you need is two people. One at the helm giving it full throttle and the other at the distributor. You turn the distributor till you get max RPM and back it off slightly. ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: 81nautique
Date Posted: July-11-2019 at 10:58am
No pictures of your boat from the top of the sand dunes? Silver Lake is beautiful. Good luck with the Atom. |
Posted By: gun-driver
Date Posted: July-11-2019 at 12:52pm
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Above links https://drive.google.com/file/d/1hKE34yeOkkBJRWl0FGOoWTdYA-T7ufJF/view" rel="nofollow - https://drive.google.com/file/d/1hKE34yeOkkBJRWl0FGOoWTdYA-T7ufJF/view https://drive.google.com/file/d/1TKkFaSF5qUPZxMTsQbKTHLVKPNRLSpRP/view?usp=sharing" rel="nofollow - https://drive.google.com/file/d/1TKkFaSF5qUPZxMTsQbKTHLVKPNRLSpRP/view?usp=sharing https://drive.google.com/file/d/1PaSyZtkbR_iwwLNm7rU9cA4y7GUzVP09/view?usp=sharing" rel="nofollow - https://drive.google.com/file/d/1PaSyZtkbR_iwwLNm7rU9cA4y7GUzVP09/view?usp=sharing |
Posted By: 56-Atom
Date Posted: July-11-2019 at 3:12pm
------------- 56-Atom https://www.facebook.com/media/set/edit/a.1729455880510267/ |
Posted By: 56-Atom
Date Posted: July-11-2019 at 3:16pm
 ------------- 56-Atom https://www.facebook.com/media/set/edit/a.1729455880510267/ |
Posted By: 56-Atom
Date Posted: July-11-2019 at 3:22pm
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Thanks for re-posting these...almost forgot about the first fire-up day! All that excitement over one cylinder... ------------- 56-Atom https://www.facebook.com/media/set/edit/a.1729455880510267/ |
Posted By: Gary S
Date Posted: July-11-2019 at 4:51pm
Ah to be 19 again at Silver Lake with a dune buggy and a Bultaco Alpina. Seems so long ago..... ------------- http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=1711&sort=&pagenum=1&yrstart=1966&yrend=1970" rel="nofollow - 69 Mustang HM SS 95 Nautique Super Sport |
Posted By: 56-Atom
Date Posted: July-11-2019 at 6:55pm
Will check props when back up at the lake later this month. I did try to adjust timing as described, but no higher than 2500. Any one near the Silver Lake Sand Dunes area from July 27-Aug 4th are welcome to stop by for a beer, some tinkering on the engine, a ride on the lake and I have a Jeep we can hit the dunes with. ------------- 56-Atom https://www.facebook.com/media/set/edit/a.1729455880510267/ |
Posted By: 56-Atom
Date Posted: November-09-2019 at 1:31pm
Thought I would give an update on the 56-Atom. After a great first summer of cruising at sub-rpms of 2500 which was good-enough, I went back to tinkering on things. We checked everything and applied all recommendations from the forum group, change of props, timing, fuel intakes, air, carburetor linkages, jets...thank you! On the day that was to be the last run of the season...met an older gentleman at the boat launch who offered to take a look. He immediately ID the issue as a weak breaker arm spring. I adjusted it with a slight bend via needle nose pliers and we ran it up to 3000rpms. Adjusted timing (which is pretty fun with my daughter at the helm running wide open down the lake with one hand on the ski pole and the other on the distributor cap) ...with no improvement. Back at the garage...replaced breaker arm spring, adjusted points .020 and talked my wife into doing one more run for the season...and to our excitement, we watched the RPMs tac up to 3400 which is max per manual. A wave runner clocked us at 32 mph. Felt exhilarating and hoped the old plywood would hold together! Have put her to bed for the season and look forward to making her "more original" for some shows next summer as well as getting to a reunion or two. I think the FB link covers most of the steps in the restoration that began in 2012. Thanks to the CCF community, you have been a major part of getting the 1956 back up to speed!   ------------- 56-Atom https://www.facebook.com/media/set/edit/a.1729455880510267/ |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: November-09-2019 at 1:51pm
 ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: MechGaT
Date Posted: November-10-2019 at 8:15pm
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Nice! Looking good! ------------- '92 Sport Nautique |