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1985 fish nautique

Printed From: CorrectCraftFan.com
Category: Repairs and Maintenance
Forum Name: Engine Repair
Forum Discription: Engine problems and solutions
URL: http://www.CorrectCraftFan.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=47016
Printed Date: April-29-2024 at 12:04am


Topic: 1985 fish nautique
Posted By: Preston01
Subject: 1985 fish nautique
Date Posted: November-24-2018 at 5:38pm
Good afternoon,
I am at a loss for ideas. I cannot get my 85 351 to crank. We were put a couple weeks ago and after idling for a while it cut off and would not crank back up. I had to get towed in. My starter froze up so I put a new starter, plugs and ignition coil. Still won’t crank. I have spark. I pulled a wire and a plug and held it against the block. I know I am getting fuel and I have also tried starting fluid.

Any help would be great.

Ps - I have also burned through 3 ignition coils. Not sure if there is a problem causing that. I have read that it can be battery related or plug wires arcing. I have check all wires and put new batteries but still no fire.




Replies:
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: November-24-2018 at 6:26pm
Crank or start? Cranking is commonly used to refer to the engine turning over with the starter..

Are you using an internally resisted or externally resisted coil and are you using the ballast resistor plus how is it wired? Do you have an EI conversion in the distributor?

Cranking an engine:



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/diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique

64 X55 Dunphy

Keep it original, Pete
<


Posted By: SNobsessed
Date Posted: November-24-2018 at 6:26pm
Do you mean the engine spins but won't start running?     No crank usually means won't turn at all.

You said you put a new starter in. Did you get a reverse rotation one or one that fits 351 trucks?

An auto/truck starter spins wrong way for your boat. You wouldn't be the first to buy the wrong starter.




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“Beer is proof that God loves us and wants us to be happy.”

Ben Franklin


Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: November-24-2018 at 6:34pm
Originally posted by Preston01 Preston01 wrote:

and I have also tried starting fluid.

Do you understand that the high solvency washes the oil off the cylinder walls?


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/diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique

64 X55 Dunphy

Keep it original, Pete
<


Posted By: juniorwoody
Date Posted: November-25-2018 at 8:55am
Last time I was in a no crank situation we were hydro locked.

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The value of money spent on new adventure far exceeds the value of money saved for the future


Posted By: Preston01
Date Posted: November-25-2018 at 12:42pm
I did put a new starter in and I just bought a generic starter for a 351 truck from Napa, I need a reverse starter? It does crank it just won’t fire.


Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: November-25-2018 at 12:48pm
Originally posted by Preston01 Preston01 wrote:

I did put a new starter in and I just bought a generic starter for a 351 truck from Napa, I need a reverse starter? It does crank it just won’t fire.

The engine won't start when it's being cranked in the wrong direction!! I doubt it's marine ignition protected rated ether. I feel you may want to start purchasing marine rated parts before you have a problem with a fire or explosion.

Back to your problem of burning out coils, is it internally resisted or external? It will make a difference with wiring in the ballast resistor.

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54 Atom

/diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique

64 X55 Dunphy

Keep it original, Pete
<


Posted By: Preston01
Date Posted: November-25-2018 at 12:53pm
It does crank, just wont fire.

Here is a photo of my set up. Still learning a lot about this engine/boat.

Thanks for the help.



Posted By: Preston01
Date Posted: November-25-2018 at 12:58pm
Do you recommend somewhere I order my Parts from?

Not sure about my set up. Still new to this.
I posted a photo of my engine just a minute ago, maybe you can tell from that. i am about to take more pictures.
Thanks for all the help.


Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: November-25-2018 at 1:10pm
Preston.
Get some pictures of how the ballast resistor is wired.

From the picture you did post, I can tell that the overflow hose (clear tubing attached to the flame arrestor) isn't connected properly. It's supposed to go from the fuel pump to the flame arrestor. The purpose is if the fuel pump diaphragm ruptures, fuel goes into the engine and not the bilge where it could cause a major explosion. Perhaps your fuel pump isn't a marine ether? Marine pumps have an extra fitting where the hose attaches.

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54 Atom

/diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique

64 X55 Dunphy

Keep it original, Pete
<


Posted By: SNobsessed
Date Posted: November-25-2018 at 1:57pm
Preston - Search the 'net for 351 reverse-rotation starter. I am sure NAPA has one too, you just got to ask for it specifically.

Do you still have the old one? If so, it most likely could be rebuilt for less than a new one.

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“Beer is proof that God loves us and wants us to be happy.”

Ben Franklin


Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: November-25-2018 at 2:07pm
https://www.marinepartssource.com/catalogsearch/result/?q=ford+351+starter" rel="nofollow - Arco marine geared starters for 351

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64 X55 Dunphy

Keep it original, Pete
<


Posted By: Gary S
Date Posted: November-25-2018 at 2:14pm
Yes you'd want the Arco 70201 like the one http://www.boatersland.com/arc70201.html?gclid=Cj0KCQiArenfBRCoARIsAFc1FqfMFkUiSf3xHvql33wK_SMgTsBJJYuABoeZTxXGE1l7xjT1DLegNewaAllhEALw_wcB" rel="nofollow - here
It will be alot easier to install too since they are so much smaller

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95 Nautique Super Sport


Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: November-25-2018 at 2:35pm
Preston,
Go with Gary's link as it's $24.00 cheaper. Note that Gary being retired and on a budget, has the time to look for the less expensive.

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54 Atom

/diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique

64 X55 Dunphy

Keep it original, Pete
<


Posted By: KENO
Date Posted: November-25-2018 at 3:11pm
From what I can tell Preston, you don't know which way your engine rotates and nobody else is 100% sure either They're just assuming it's a CC and it's reverse rotation. A lot can be changed in 32 years by previous owners

Before you make some assumptions that end up costing you money, do this.............

Take the distributor cap off and crank the engine (use the key, not Pete's hand crank)

If the distributor rotor is turning counterclockwise, then your starter is the correct rotation for your 351.

If it's turning clockwise, then the starter is wrong and it's turning the engine the wrong way and like they said.............it ain't gonna start

With that info you can then get a correct rotation marine starter.

It sounds like you probably have the wrong rotation starter but it's good to verify that especially since the check will take all of 5 minutes if you take your time


Posted By: Gary S
Date Posted: November-25-2018 at 3:28pm
I still get call outs,work Saturdays,Sundays and holidays,work after hours, just don't get any representation on disagreements with "management", any seniority any raises or any money.....

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http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=1711&sort=&pagenum=1&yrstart=1966&yrend=1970" rel="nofollow - 69 Mustang HM SS
95 Nautique Super Sport


Posted By: Preston01
Date Posted: November-25-2018 at 6:16pm


Thank you for the help.



Also I have attached pictures of my fuel pump and maybe a fuel regulator? Not sure what it is. the hose comes from the fuel pump to it and from there it goes to the carb.


Posted By: KENO
Date Posted: November-25-2018 at 7:53pm
If a picture is worth a thousand words, there are plenty of words there

Things you can tell are that you have a Mallory electronic distributor by looking at the 3 pin connector next to it and also the tag on the housing ending in DV is one hint that it's reverse rotation. The plug wires, if #1 is where it's marked on the distributor would also hint reverse rotation.

Check the rotor rotation with the cap off like mentioned earlier. It's probably gonna rotate clockwise telling you that you have the wrong starter.and that's why it won't start

It looks like a BWD select coil hiding under the MSD decal on the coil bracket. It may or may not have the right resistance to be compatible with the coil.

The carburetor looks like a mid 70's PCM engine marine Holley due to the dull dark blue color

Somebody put an electric fuel pump and regulator in place of the mechanical pump and the fuel lines don't look like they're USCG approved rubber based on any visible markings Maybe the pump is marine, maybe it's not

That fuel pump vent line Pete mentioned looks like it does nothing at all and the electric pump wouldn't have anywhere to hook it to anyways.


At least in the pictures, the wiring looks like a nightmare, no better way to say it, but seems to work or is maybe the cause of burning up the coils

A new correct rotation starter may be all you need to get it running again but there's a lot of work to get things marine safe and right.


Posted By: SNobsessed
Date Posted: November-25-2018 at 9:25pm
So what is with the OMC fuel line connector in pict #2?

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“Beer is proof that God loves us and wants us to be happy.”

Ben Franklin


Posted By: JDD33
Date Posted: November-26-2018 at 12:25am
Just guessing but maybe that electric fuel pump feeds an outboard trolling motor and not the main engine??
There looks like an un used fuel line in the picture as well.????
Hmmmm....

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Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: November-26-2018 at 9:24am
Originally posted by JDD33 JDD33 wrote:

Just guessing but maybe that electric fuel pump feeds an outboard trolling motor and not the main engine??
Hmmmm....

Maybe not a guess? Notice in picture 6 & 7, it looks like the gray outboard hose is hooked up to the electric pump??

Preston,
Do you know any info from the previous owner?

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54 Atom

/diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique

64 X55 Dunphy

Keep it original, Pete
<


Posted By: KENO
Date Posted: November-26-2018 at 10:03am
Originally posted by 8122pbrainard 8122pbrainard wrote:

Originally posted by JDD33 JDD33 wrote:

Just guessing but maybe that electric fuel pump feeds an outboard trolling motor and not the main engine??
Hmmmm....

Maybe not a guess? Notice in picture 6 & 7, it looks like the gray outboard hose is hooked up to the electric pump??

Preston,
Do you know any info from the previous owner?


Or...................maybe the line was hooked up to an outboard fuel tank to supply the fuel system for testing, like gets talked about here on CCF

Clip that connector on to an outboard tank and you have your test setup.


Posted By: Preston01
Date Posted: November-26-2018 at 9:09pm
Correct, the outboard fuel line was hooked to an external tank for testing. I had a bad Fuel/Water separator so i bypassed that with the external tank.

I know the wiring is a nightmare, and I am not a good electrician. haha. It was like that when i bought it. My intentions are to correct all that is wrong with the boat.

The ignition coil is from a parts house aswell, does it need to be a certain one or will the one I have be suitable?

Thank yall for all the help.


Posted By: KENO
Date Posted: November-27-2018 at 8:56am
If you take a picture of the distributor with the cap off, it should be easy to tell if you have the Mallory Unilite/E spark or maybe the Mallory magnetic breakerless system.

Also whatever coil info you have and whether or not there's a ballast resistor would be good info. The resistor should resemble the picture

That should give a good idea as to whether your coil is good to use with your system

.


Posted By: Preston01
Date Posted: November-27-2018 at 8:50pm
Where would the ballast resistor be located (general area) ?

The coil is a BWD Select E71. its just a generic for a 351 from the parts house.


Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: November-27-2018 at 9:11pm
Preston,
The resistor is next to the starter relay (solenoid).

Do you have a VOM (volt ohm meter) and do you know how to take voltage readings?

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54 Atom

/diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique

64 X55 Dunphy

Keep it original, Pete
<


Posted By: KENO
Date Posted: November-28-2018 at 8:53am
You still need to know what's under the distributor cap, then you could refer to the instructions for the electronic module.

If you have a meter,like Pete mentioned, check the resistance between the 2 small connections on the coil (the pos and neg terminals} That would be good information to see if a ballast resistor is needed.

You say you have spark now, so if you turn the engine the right way with the right starter it should run again.

Maybe it was very flooded when it quit on you originally, since it had spark.



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