No Power to Anything
Printed From: CorrectCraftFan.com
Category: Repairs and Maintenance
Forum Name: Engine Repair
Forum Discription: Engine problems and solutions
URL: http://www.CorrectCraftFan.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=47449
Printed Date: April-27-2024 at 3:42pm
Topic: No Power to Anything
Posted By: Green 2000
Subject: No Power to Anything
Date Posted: May-14-2019 at 12:03am
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Spent a couple of hours reading posts about similar issues and not sure I am grasping what I read. Lots of acronyms used and apparently different names for the same thing; at least as far as I can comprehend. I have a 2000 Ski Nautique that I have owned for about 10 years. It will not start; there is no power to the engine box; no relays clicking, no fuel pumps turning on, no solenoid click, no starter rolling over. None of the gauges come on. The CD player spins but it is likely wired to bypass whatever my problem is. When at first the boat would not start, I would get the Perfect Pass beep when I entered the key code, and one time a few days ago I even got the starter to roll over. However, since then we had a very heavy, blowing rain, and even though the boat was under the boat dock, rain blew into the cockpit. I just bought a new battery and posts are clean. I get 12.55V on the battery. However on the right side of the circuit breaker box, where the screw terminals are, I get only 9.9V. (is the breaker panel also what is called a PME?) None of the breakers were tripped. The boat has a Perko switch, and I don't know whether or not that is the only thing between the battery and the screw terminals. I shamefully never checked the voltage at the breaker box screw terminals when the boat was running, so I don't know if 9.9V is normal at that location or not. I have read many older threads about similar, but not exactly the same issues, and it seems like for some folks replacing the ignition key pad did the trick. Before I invest in that I am hoping for some voltage testing advice. ------------- Finally a Nautique Owner |
Replies:
Posted By: quinner
Date Posted: May-14-2019 at 3:26pm
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Did you check your factory disconnect switch if so equipped?? On my 206 its on the helm side adjacent to the drivers seat. All On/ All Off / Bilge Only are the 3 positions on mine ------------- http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=1143" rel="nofollow - Mi Bowt |
Posted By: dkimball
Date Posted: May-14-2019 at 5:17pm
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Shortly after I picked up my Nautique 216 I had a similar issue where everything went dead. Come to find out after searching around the battery that came with the boat was a little too tall for the battery compartment and the hinge on the cover hatch ended up connecting the battery terminals together. Just waiting for this battery to die so I can pick up the correct size so in the mean time I added some insulation and moved the hinge to the other side so it won't happen again. ------------- Kimball |
Posted By: Green 2000
Date Posted: May-14-2019 at 5:55pm
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Thanks for the thoughts. No factory disconnect switch. No hinged battery box. Lid is not even installed when I am doing this. ------------- Finally a Nautique Owner |
Posted By: bfootr
Date Posted: May-14-2019 at 6:21pm
| Not familiar with this boat or the keypad that you’re referencing, but are you getting 12+ volts on the switch side of the ignition switch when attempting to start the engine? |
Posted By: sport1999
Date Posted: May-15-2019 at 9:12am
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Throwing it out there, but I do believe the keypads will go bad. I'm not sure of the symptoms, but there are some threads on planetnautique about adding a keyed ignition in case the keypad fails. Not sure if this is your issue, but maybe, https://www.planetnautique.com/vb5/forum/nautique-topics/maintenance-technical-discussion/diy-articles/22811-keypad-bypass |
Posted By: Green 2000
Date Posted: May-15-2019 at 10:04am
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Thank you for the replies. I don't have an ignition switch. I have the key pad. I don't know where to test for 12V around the key pad. Also, I want to keep a key pad and will just replace it if I determine for certain it is bad. ------------- Finally a Nautique Owner |
Posted By: quinner
Date Posted: May-15-2019 at 1:27pm
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If you have a factory disconnect it most likely is up under the helm area, my understanding is some 2000's have them and some don't. Apparently there is a known parasitic draw and the dealers added those disconnects to address it, MFR started adding them once the issue became known during the production year. Hopefully some of the smart guys will chime in here on tracing from your source out to determine where your issue might be, in the meantime I would make sure, starting from the battery, all your connections are clean and secure. ------------- http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=1143" rel="nofollow - Mi Bowt |
Posted By: Green 2000
Date Posted: May-15-2019 at 2:47pm
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thank you. I do not have a factory disconnect. At least I don't think it is factory. I have an after market Perko, two position, disconnect, installed by a dealer before my ownership. And yes, if I do not turn the disconnect to the OFF position, the battery will drain within a few days. All connections are clean. ------------- Finally a Nautique Owner |
Posted By: Green 2000
Date Posted: May-16-2019 at 12:33pm
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I have pulled my dash pod and checked voltage at the four prong connector that goes to the ignition pad. I have a black, a red, an orange and a green. I have a 10V potential across the red and black, and no potential across any of the other terminals. And as I said in the original post, I also have 10V at the screw terminals on the PME. The PME appears to be passing the voltage to the ignition pad. Does anyone know if 10V is adequate to power the starting pad? And, if only the black and red connectors should have a potential difference? I do not know yet why I only have 10V at the PME instead of 12V. My Perko disconnect switch is very difficult to get to and I have not been able to get my volt meter to it yet. ------------- Finally a Nautique Owner |
Posted By: Green 2000
Date Posted: May-16-2019 at 10:24pm
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Got the Perko switch out and found that there is nothing between the Perko disconnect switch and the PME, and thus no reason for a voltage drop. There is a 10 ga wire connecting the switched side of the Perko disconnect directly to the PME (circuit breaker box). Some ***** had installed an inline fuse behind the Perko switch and the fuse holder had some oxidation. So after several hours of work just to get the fuse holder out, I have replaced the fuse holder and fuse going to the PME, and put the fuse where it can be seen and changed. I now have 12.6 V (bat voltage) at the PME screw terminals, 12.6 V at the key pad connector, and the boat starts. So in case it helps anyone else, the answer to my original question is that 9.9V at the PME screw terminals is not acceptable. There must be 12+ volts at the PME screw terminals. If you have less, the key pad is not going to provide power to anything. Never assume that some idiot has not installed a hidden fuse somewhere. ------------- Finally a Nautique Owner |
Posted By: gt40KS
Date Posted: May-16-2019 at 10:52pm
Yay!! Isn't that a good feeling when you finally find the problem and get it fixed  As for your unknown parasitic draw, I'd highly suspect your keypad that you seem to not want to part with. That being the case, definitely keep the Perko, just make sure you check the connections now and again to be sure they are snug and free of corrosion. Switches are a good 'piece of mind' item to have on a boat anyway IMO, that's why I installed one on my boat - not because of a draw issue. ------------- JCCI 1995 Ski Nautique GT40 |
Posted By: gun-driver
Date Posted: May-16-2019 at 11:44pm
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Glad you figured it out and thanks for the follow up. I am a new owner of a 2000 Sport and it has the on/off perko installed so I guess I'll be digging in to see how its wired. |