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Guage Wiring... 99 Super Air

Printed From: CorrectCraftFan.com
Category: Repairs and Maintenance
Forum Name: Boat Maintenance
Forum Discription: Discuss maintenance of your Correct Craft
URL: http://www.CorrectCraftFan.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=47717
Printed Date: April-23-2024 at 1:16pm


Topic: Guage Wiring... 99 Super Air
Posted By: Treybizttu
Subject: Guage Wiring... 99 Super Air
Date Posted: July-09-2019 at 2:56pm
Has anyone gone with a bus bar ground on their gauges as opposed to the daisy chain? My 99 super air has a few additional gauges (I bought it that way) along with Perfect Pass and this weekend PP started freaking out, then quit working, and so did the tach/hour meter. I believe it's a voltage drop/ grounding issue but i'm not 100% yet.




Replies:
Posted By: TRBenj
Date Posted: July-09-2019 at 3:05pm
Yes.

PP is a decent current draw. May benefit from direct power from batt rather than wiring off the dash. Certainly without cleaning up and upsizing/adding additional power/ground to the dash.


Posted By: Treybizttu
Date Posted: July-11-2019 at 7:29pm
Ordered a mess of Stuff from Amazon: Wiring, Terminals, Bus Bars... Going to try and get it set up a little cleaner this weekend if I get some time.



Posted By: flyweed
Date Posted: July-11-2019 at 9:31pm
Yep...ground buss bar behind the dash..and heavier ground wire run from the engine to the dash. Then separate grounds from each gauge to the buss bar.


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'93 Ski Nautique NWZ, Air Boom Tower
Drink Tonight..for tomorrow We Ride!


Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: July-11-2019 at 9:53pm
Originally posted by flyweed flyweed wrote:

Yep...ground buss bar behind the dash..and heavier ground wire run from the engine to the dash. Then separate grounds from each gauge to the buss bar.

Yes on the upgrade for the ground but don't forget the + power up to the dash.

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/diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow -

54 Atom

/diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique

64 X55 Dunphy

Keep it original, Pete
<


Posted By: 91NaughtyQ
Date Posted: July-12-2019 at 4:08pm
Originally posted by 8122pbrainard 8122pbrainard wrote:

Originally posted by flyweed flyweed wrote:

Yep...ground buss bar behind the dash..and heavier ground wire run from the engine to the dash. Then separate grounds from each gauge to the buss bar.

Yes on the upgrade for the ground but don't forget the + power up to the dash.


Still looking at doing this. I get the ground part, but where is the + coming into the dash?

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1991 Ski Nautique
(Previous)1984 Ski Nautique 2001


Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: July-12-2019 at 4:14pm
Tim's diagram:



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/diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow -

54 Atom

/diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique

64 X55 Dunphy

Keep it original, Pete
<


Posted By: 91NaughtyQ
Date Posted: July-12-2019 at 5:16pm
Nice thanks. Will any marine grounding block work or is there one you would recommend. Also, assuming 10ga wire for both going to the dash?

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1991 Ski Nautique
(Previous)1984 Ski Nautique 2001


Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: July-12-2019 at 5:25pm
Gary,
I'm not aware of marine specific terminal blocks. I don't feel the block would be as important as running marine rated wire and then using heat shrink adhesive lined crimp terminations. I'd be inclined to run heavier than 10. Have you figured out the amp load existing and potential future? Also, I always like to use the 3% voltage drop for wire sizing.

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/diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow -

54 Atom

/diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique

64 X55 Dunphy

Keep it original, Pete
<


Posted By: 91NaughtyQ
Date Posted: July-12-2019 at 5:38pm
Originally posted by 8122pbrainard 8122pbrainard wrote:

Gary,
I'm not aware of marine specific terminal blocks. I don't feel the block would be as important as running marine rated wire and then using heat shrink adhesive lined crimp terminations. I'd be inclined to run heavier than 10. Have you figured out the amp load existing and potential future? Also, I always like to use the 3% voltage drop for wire sizing.


I do not know existing load (No quite that savvy) but it is stock with Perfect Pass added. I have a stereo installed with a seperate battery for that and use the 2nd accessory switch to turn it on and off. With that info can you recommend gauge of wire. As always I appreciate any advice.

Thanks,

Gary

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1991 Ski Nautique
(Previous)1984 Ski Nautique 2001


Posted By: 91NaughtyQ
Date Posted: July-12-2019 at 6:03pm
So from the diagram, I would start at the solenoid and go through engine and dash breakers to the dash with the + ?

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1991 Ski Nautique
(Previous)1984 Ski Nautique 2001


Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: July-12-2019 at 6:17pm
Gary,
The hardest part is getting the wire up to the dash. Use the old to pull the new in. I'd run 8 ga. up there. I would go to the terminal block first and then go to the dash breakers. This eliminates the + daisy chaining too.

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/diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow -

54 Atom

/diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique

64 X55 Dunphy

Keep it original, Pete
<


Posted By: Treybizttu
Date Posted: July-12-2019 at 7:05pm
Originally posted by 91NaughtyQ 91NaughtyQ wrote:

Nice thanks. Will any marine grounding block work or is there one you would recommend. Also, assuming 10ga wire for both going to the dash?


I'm running 8GA from the battery and picked up a couple covered "Marine" Blue Sea Bus Bars.


Posted By: desertskier
Date Posted: July-12-2019 at 7:20pm
I just ran a second wire from the protected side of the 50Amp breaker on the engine to the dash ignition breaker input. Pretty sure it was 10 gauge. If you leave the existing wire and run the second one in parallel you should have plenty of current carrying capacity.


Posted By: 91NaughtyQ
Date Posted: July-12-2019 at 8:18pm
Originally posted by Treybizttu Treybizttu wrote:

Originally posted by 91NaughtyQ 91NaughtyQ wrote:

Nice thanks. Will any marine grounding block work or is there one you would recommend. Also, assuming 10ga wire for both going to the dash?


I'm running 8GA from the battery and picked up a couple covered "Marine" Blue Sea Bus Bars.


Thanks.

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1991 Ski Nautique
(Previous)1984 Ski Nautique 2001


Posted By: 91NaughtyQ
Date Posted: July-12-2019 at 8:20pm
Got it. Thanks a bunch. Going to take care of it this weekend. Been dealing with the chirps and stuff long enough.

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1991 Ski Nautique
(Previous)1984 Ski Nautique 2001


Posted By: flyweed
Date Posted: July-12-2019 at 9:34pm
Pete helped me a TON when I ran new ground and Hot (+) wire to my dash. I ran 10 gauge both black and red from the engine compartment up to the Dash. I fished it through and it wasn't very hard.
Also, the grounding block I used, it's stainless, with a plastic cover that goes over all of it.

Bus Bar


Pic of new Ground in engine compartment:


New Hot and Ground wire coming out behind dash:



-------------
'93 Ski Nautique NWZ, Air Boom Tower
Drink Tonight..for tomorrow We Ride!


Posted By: 91NaughtyQ
Date Posted: July-13-2019 at 12:24am
Awesome thanks. Yeah Pete has had input on every project I have worked on.   

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1991 Ski Nautique
(Previous)1984 Ski Nautique 2001


Posted By: 91NaughtyQ
Date Posted: July-13-2019 at 7:48pm
Originally posted by 8122pbrainard 8122pbrainard wrote:

Gary,
The hardest part is getting the wire up to the dash. Use the old to pull the new in. I'd run 8 ga. up there. I would go to the terminal block first and then go to the dash breakers. This eliminates the + daisy chaining too.


OKay so I went at this today and pretty much stopped immediately because what seemed to make sense on paper made absolute zero sense once I got into it. Can you help me with these questions-

my + and - go to the dash from the back via a harness - Where do I tap in for the HOT. In existing PIN slot and can you even do this?

New ground and terminal block - Do i just run it up after grouinding on engine and hook all NEG from the dash to it? If so what about existing ground coming from rear?

Don't know where to start with the dash daisy chain but assuming each - from each instrument would go to the block and no daisy chaining?

Anything I am missing?

Thanks for any help. The labor is the easy part, but the lack of understanding is stopping me.

Gary

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1991 Ski Nautique
(Previous)1984 Ski Nautique 2001


Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: July-13-2019 at 8:37pm
Gary,
For the +, a good place is:
Originally posted by desertskier desertskier wrote:

I just ran a second wire from the protected side of the 50Amp breaker .

Then for the -, a convenient spot on the block but, check to see where the - battery cable is hooked up to the block. That would be the absolute best spot.

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/diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique

64 X55 Dunphy

Keep it original, Pete
<


Posted By: KENO
Date Posted: July-13-2019 at 8:44pm
If you try to tap into the existing harness, that will become the weak link in your new wiring.since the harness has smaller wiring that you'd be splicing into

Run the 2 wires back to the engine compartment and the ground can go to the engine right where the battery ground cable hooks up. as shown in Flyweed's picture

The positive could be attached to the output side of the main engine breaker so it's fuse protected like Desertskier did or alternately from any good 12 volt source back there and put a fuse in the line to protect it like others have mentioned.

Edit..............look at that me and Pete agreeing again   



Posted By: 91NaughtyQ
Date Posted: July-14-2019 at 7:14am
KENO - So last night I ran the new ground and terminal block as well as a parallel hot starting it on the "safe" side of the 50 amp breaker at the back (the same spot the original to the dash starts RED # 10 see diagram). I ended it at the dash tying in with the existing hot coming from the same spot. Is this correct for the hot wire coming from the 50?

I will be grounding the individual gauges etc.... today.



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1991 Ski Nautique
(Previous)1984 Ski Nautique 2001


Posted By: KENO
Date Posted: July-14-2019 at 7:52am
That works for me, It's what Desertskier did.

Hopefully you tied it back in at the upstream side of the 20 amp dash mounted ignition breaker like he did so that breaker is in the circuit too.



Posted By: 91NaughtyQ
Date Posted: July-14-2019 at 9:14am
Originally posted by KENO KENO wrote:

That works for me, It's what Desertskier did.

Hopefully you tied it back in at the upstream side of the 20 amp dash mounted ignition breaker like he did so that breaker is in the circuit too.



I tied in right there

Is this correct?

Thanks to you and everyone else for all the info.

Gary

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1991 Ski Nautique
(Previous)1984 Ski Nautique 2001


Posted By: KENO
Date Posted: July-14-2019 at 12:44pm
Originally posted by 91NaughtyQ 91NaughtyQ wrote:

Originally posted by KENO KENO wrote:

That works for me, It's what Desertskier did.

Hopefully you tied it back in at the upstream side of the 20 amp dash mounted ignition breaker like he did so that breaker is in the circuit too.



I tied in right there

Is this correct?

Thanks to you and everyone else for all the info.

Gary


I think so


Posted By: desertskier
Date Posted: July-14-2019 at 1:27pm
I also added a two pin connector at the dash for the new + and - so the dash pod could still be easily removed. Other than that it sounds like you wired it like mine. Also, before you connect the battery back up it is a good idea to take a meter and measure resistance between positive and negative to make sure you accidentally didn't short them together somewhere.


Posted By: 91NaughtyQ
Date Posted: July-14-2019 at 1:29pm
Thanks. I reread DesertSkier's post and that is exactly how he did it. Just got in off the water and two problems are cured from just adding the + wire. (Temp Gauge always reading high) and (low volts) I gained 2 volts on the volt meter. Hoping the grounds will take care of the chirps and other little aggravators.

Thanks again guys.

Gary

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1991 Ski Nautique
(Previous)1984 Ski Nautique 2001


Posted By: 91NaughtyQ
Date Posted: July-14-2019 at 1:32pm
Originally posted by desertskier desertskier wrote:

I also added a two pin connector at the dash for the new + and - so the dash pod could still be easily removed. Other than that it sounds like you wired it like mine. Also, before you connect the battery back up it is a good idea to take a meter and measure resistance between positive and negative to make sure you accidentally didn't short them together somewhere.


Would you possibly be able to post a pick of that? If so that would be great!

Gary

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1991 Ski Nautique
(Previous)1984 Ski Nautique 2001


Posted By: desertskier
Date Posted: July-14-2019 at 1:52pm
I don't have a picture but it looked something like this: https://www.autozone.com/electrical-and-lighting/electrical-wire-connector-kit/msd-two-pin-connector-kit/139776_0_0" rel="nofollow - 2 Pin connector


Posted By: 91NaughtyQ
Date Posted: July-14-2019 at 2:06pm
I think I got it now. The two pin connector was installed to make removing the dash easier, but all this can be done with out it correct?

Gary

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1991 Ski Nautique
(Previous)1984 Ski Nautique 2001


Posted By: desertskier
Date Posted: July-14-2019 at 2:14pm
Correct, you don't need the connector.


Posted By: 91NaughtyQ
Date Posted: July-14-2019 at 2:21pm
Thanks for all the info.

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1991 Ski Nautique
(Previous)1984 Ski Nautique 2001


Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: July-14-2019 at 2:23pm
Originally posted by desertskier desertskier wrote:

I don't have a picture but it looked something like this: https://www.autozone.com/electrical-and-lighting/electrical-wire-connector-kit/msd-two-pin-connector-kit/139776_0_0" rel="nofollow - 2 Pin connector

Gary,
If you do use the connector, be very careful on the selection or amp capacity. You may be up into the pin and sleeve connector type. You may be better off just leaving some extra wire at the dash pod.

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/diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique

64 X55 Dunphy

Keep it original, Pete
<


Posted By: Mpost
Date Posted: July-14-2019 at 4:59pm
Like Pete says. This is what I have used for 8 ga. wire. Good for 50 amps.

https://www.amazon.com/Spurtar-Battery-Connect-Disconnect-Certified/dp/B07C69HJ2B/ref=sr_1_11?crid=33BMKZ9Z7MWZU&keywords=8+gauge+connectors&qid=1563130362&s=automotive&sprefix=8+gauge+conn%2Cautomotive%2C496&sr=1-11" rel="nofollow - link

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84 SN Sold   98 SN    Lund Pro V   1975 Alumacraft


Posted By: desertskier
Date Posted: July-14-2019 at 6:17pm
You are connecting to a 20 amp breaker and splitting the current through 2 wires. So worse case if one wire opens is 20 amps.


Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: July-14-2019 at 6:26pm
Sean,
Originally posted by desertskier desertskier wrote:

You are connecting to a 20 amp breaker and splitting the current through 2 wires. So worse case if one wire opens is 20 amps.

Sorry but I'm not following this.

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/diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow -

54 Atom

/diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique

64 X55 Dunphy

Keep it original, Pete
<


Posted By: desertskier
Date Posted: July-14-2019 at 7:06pm
For the older boat it sounds like he added the additional positive wire in parallel with the existing wire between the 50 amp main breaker and the 20 amp ignition breaker. So if both wires are intact then a portion of the current will flow through each wire unless one opens then all the current will flow through the remaining wire. If there is a short in that path then you could see 50 amps on those wires before the main breaker opened but for normal operation the dash/ignition circuit was designed for 20 amps max. I wouldn't expect to see more than a few amps through each wire unless a failure occurred then the new connector would probably be the least of the problems. But you knew all that so what am I missing?


Posted By: 91NaughtyQ
Date Posted: July-16-2019 at 9:46am
Re-wiring is complete. Any and every issue I had from the horn resetting perfect pass to my Nav lights causing incorrect volt and temp readings and all the annoying "chirps" when turning on blower, bilge etc.... is now resolved. I have avoided this for 4 seasons because of the perceived complexity of the job, but in the end it was pretty straight forward.

Big thanks to all of you who provided input to help me out.

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1991 Ski Nautique
(Previous)1984 Ski Nautique 2001


Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: July-16-2019 at 9:51am
Originally posted by 91NaughtyQ 91NaughtyQ wrote:

Re-wiring is complete. Any and every issue I had from the horn resetting perfect pass to my Nav lights causing incorrect volt and temp readings and all the annoying "chirps" when turning on blower, bilge etc.... is now resolved. I have avoided this for 4 seasons because of the perceived complexity of the job, but in the end it was pretty straight forward.

Big thanks to all of you who provided input to help me out.



-------------
/diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow -

54 Atom

/diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique

64 X55 Dunphy

Keep it original, Pete
<


Posted By: flyweed
Date Posted: July-16-2019 at 12:49pm
Congrats. It does sound like a horrible job, but it's not really that difficult once you dig into it.


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'93 Ski Nautique NWZ, Air Boom Tower
Drink Tonight..for tomorrow We Ride!


Posted By: 91NaughtyQ
Date Posted: July-16-2019 at 1:12pm
Originally posted by flyweed flyweed wrote:

Congrats. It does sound like a horrible job, but it's not really that difficult once you dig into it.


It is that first time you contemplate cutting wires in that spaghetti looking mess behind the dash that seems too much to handle. Thanks to you guys on here I was able to get it done. Some smart folks on here for sure.

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1991 Ski Nautique
(Previous)1984 Ski Nautique 2001



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