PCM Apex 5.7 - Normal Temp?
Printed From: CorrectCraftFan.com
Category: General Correct Craft Discussion
Forum Name: General Discussion
Forum Discription: Anything Correct Craft
URL: http://www.CorrectCraftFan.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=47765
Printed Date: April-28-2024 at 9:10pm
Topic: PCM Apex 5.7 - Normal Temp?
Posted By: cgerdz
Subject: PCM Apex 5.7 - Normal Temp?
Date Posted: July-18-2019 at 1:09am
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Greetings CCF! First time poster here, but have read the forums for years. A ton of knowledge on here that I look forward to absorbing! Excited to be a first time Nautique owner as well, with the recent purchase of an ‘02 196. Can anyone confirm the normal operating temp? Runs right at 175-180. Is that high enough to look for a leak of the suction side of RWP? Sea strainer is clean. Thanks! Connor |
Replies:
Posted By: MrMcD
Date Posted: July-18-2019 at 2:58pm
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I have not looked into the 2002 but from what I have experienced the Fuel Injected engines that are cooled by a Raw Water Pump have thermostats that open at 160 degrees. The carbureted engines all open at 143 degrees. If you have a closed system running a radiator I don't know what they run at but I would suspect it is 195. ------------- |
Posted By: cgerdz
Date Posted: July-20-2019 at 1:56pm
| Skied this morning, the temp was creeping up quite a bit between passes. Would get up somewhere between 190-200 when idling, but drops right back down to between 160-170 coming around the turn island, creeps back up through the course, and continues to rise when we set down at the other end. Seems more and more like an impeller to me. |
Posted By: MrMcD
Date Posted: July-20-2019 at 4:37pm
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sounds like time for a new Raw Water Pump Impeller. While at it make sure the lines feeding the RWP are sealed tight including the water strainer. ------------- |
Posted By: cgerdz
Date Posted: July-21-2019 at 9:31pm
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I think it’s going to be a little more involved than that unfortunately. Went out today to change the impeller and found that the actual pump is leaking significantly and the bearings are likely shot based on how much I can shake the pulley side to side. What usually determines whether you can rebuild the pump or if a new one is required? I see skidim has the parts to rebuild. |
Posted By: MrMcD
Date Posted: July-21-2019 at 9:41pm
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If it is just a loose bearing and you don't see wear to the body an overhaul should fix it. Take yours apart and look at the main body of the pump. If you bearing is worn badly it may have started to ruin your pump casting, if not just rebuild and go. I think there are posts already listed on this site that give good details on this job. ------------- |
Posted By: Gary S
Date Posted: July-22-2019 at 12:08am
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http://www.correctcraftfan.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=43144&title=g20-reduced-flow-under-load" rel="nofollow - Pump rebuild link ------------- http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details.asp?ID=1711&sort=&pagenum=1&yrstart=1966&yrend=1970" rel="nofollow - 69 Mustang HM SS 95 Nautique Super Sport |
Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: July-22-2019 at 7:06am
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Conner, You mentioned that the pump shaft is wobbling indicating a bearing problem but, at least it's still turning. Hopefully the bearing isn't locked up spinning the outer race in the housing and damaging it. Even if the bearing has spun in the housing, check it closely at to the amount of damage. If it's not extensive, the Loctite bearing retainer can be used to fix the new bearing in the housing. https://www.jamestowndistributors.com/userportal/show_product.do?pid=43780" rel="nofollow - major pump rebuild kit How about some pictures of the boat?  ------------- /diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow - 54 Atom /diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete < |
Posted By: KENO
Date Posted: July-22-2019 at 7:57am
Better yet, how about pictures of the pump so you can get a rebuild kit that will actually fit your pump. Let's just say the one in the link is a general example of a major pump rebuild kit for some models of Sherwood pumps and not necessarily yours 
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8122pbrainard wrote:Posted By: cgerdz
Date Posted: July-22-2019 at 11:55pm
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Decided to go with the new pump to minimize down time. Hope to have it installed tomorrow night. Will get some more pics of the internals on the old one, and maybe rebuild to have a spare on hand I may need in another 450 hours. Pictures are always good! Thanks for the replies.    
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Posted By: MrMcD
Date Posted: July-23-2019 at 6:31am
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I had 1,500 hours on my old pump when I sold my old boat. They last a long time normally. Maybe you are running with the belt too tight burning out the bearing. ------------- |
Posted By: cgerdz
Date Posted: July-30-2019 at 12:56am
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I am curious as well what caused it to wear out so fast. If they aren't drained properly over the winter can water freeze inside and damage a bearing/seal? Anyways - glad I ordered a new pump. I don't think you should be able to see all those ball bearings... will tear apart eventually to see what's going on in there.  New pump was surprisingly easy to install, removing old one and putting new one on only took 30-40 mins.  Back to 175 on the dot after the switch. |
Posted By: MrMcD
Date Posted: July-30-2019 at 5:17am
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Progress! ------------- |