Print Page | Close Window

Fumes!

Printed From: CorrectCraftFan.com
Category: Repairs and Maintenance
Forum Name: Boat Maintenance
Forum Discription: Discuss maintenance of your Correct Craft
URL: http://www.CorrectCraftFan.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=48815
Printed Date: May-02-2024 at 4:20pm


Topic: Fumes!
Posted By: Atomic Dam
Subject: Fumes!
Date Posted: June-08-2020 at 1:14pm
1975 Southwind 20 closed bow / escort 351W.   I am having a real problem with gas fumes in the boat. Does anyone else have a similar issue or HAD a similar issue. I can't seem to find the culprit. There are no gas leaks anywhere that I have been able to find. Turning the blower on doesn't seem to make any significant difference. Can someone offer me some insight? I'd surely appreciate it.

-------------
Please support The Cystic Fibrosis Foundation
OEF/OIF US Army Combat Veteran
'75 Southwind 20 Escort 351W



Replies:
Posted By: Orlando76
Date Posted: June-08-2020 at 1:25pm
Fumes as in burnt gas or Unburnt gas?

-------------
Please support The Cystic Fibrosis Foundation
1976 Ski Nautique 351 Escort
1993 Ski Nautique purple and black 351 HO PCM


Posted By: Atomic Dam
Date Posted: June-08-2020 at 1:28pm
Originally posted by Orlando76 Orlando76 wrote:

Fumes as in burnt gas or Unburnt gas?


These are raw gas fumes.

-------------
Please support The Cystic Fibrosis Foundation
OEF/OIF US Army Combat Veteran
'75 Southwind 20 Escort 351W


Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: June-08-2020 at 1:38pm
John,
At the engine or aft by the tank? Does the bilge blower pull air out of the bilge and then out the vent?

-------------
/diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow -

54 Atom

/diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique

64 X55 Dunphy

Keep it original, Pete
<


Posted By: Atomic Dam
Date Posted: June-08-2020 at 1:45pm
Originally posted by 8122pbrainard 8122pbrainard wrote:

John,
At the engine or aft by the tank? Does the bilge blower pull air out of the bilge and then out the vent?


To be honest, it's hard to say exactly where it's coming from. It's really strong all over the boat, at the helm, underfoot near the bow, at the stern seat and everywhere in between. My eyes were watering when I took her out on Saturday, and one passenger had to be taken back to shore due to a bad headache.
I believe the blower pulls draws from stern blower (fan), and pulls air from the bow vents, into the bilge or engine compartment and out the rear vent.

-------------
Please support The Cystic Fibrosis Foundation
OEF/OIF US Army Combat Veteran
'75 Southwind 20 Escort 351W


Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: June-08-2020 at 1:56pm
John,
I'd suggest a bilge flush first. Get the garden hose out and start adding water all over in the bilge. while running the bilge pump. (get the battery charger connected so you don't run the battery down). Let the bilge dry out and then start the "hunt".

-------------
/diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow -

54 Atom

/diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique

64 X55 Dunphy

Keep it original, Pete
<


Posted By: Atomic Dam
Date Posted: June-08-2020 at 2:00pm
Originally posted by 8122pbrainard 8122pbrainard wrote:

John,
I'd suggest a bilge flush first. Get the garden hose out and start adding water all over in the bilge. while running the bilge pump. (get the battery charger connected so you don't run the battery down). Let the bilge dry out and then start the "hunt".


Okay, I will do that right away. Is there any kind of spray cleaner that would be safe for that area that I could add to the hose? Simple green or anything to cut through any old engine fluids that water may not get loose?

-------------
Please support The Cystic Fibrosis Foundation
OEF/OIF US Army Combat Veteran
'75 Southwind 20 Escort 351W


Posted By: Orlando76
Date Posted: June-08-2020 at 2:09pm
Hold off on the battery charger part if fumes are as bad as you say. Why not pull the plug to get majority of water out. I’d be hesitant to introduce a spark at that rate. I’d pull the bulkhead out and inspect around tank and fill hose. I’ve known 2 intelligent people who at one point or another filled their CC up with gas bc filler hose was not properly installed. If not at tank check at the intake manifold and carb where the fuel line comes in, seems like people have troubl snugging that up as well as at the fuel pump.

-------------
Please support The Cystic Fibrosis Foundation
1976 Ski Nautique 351 Escort
1993 Ski Nautique purple and black 351 HO PCM


Posted By: Orlando76
Date Posted: June-08-2020 at 2:11pm
As for cleaning bulge I always used hot water and Tide laundry detergent. More intelligent people might say Tide is hard on hoses and wires but we’ve been doing it for over 40 years now.

-------------
Please support The Cystic Fibrosis Foundation
1976 Ski Nautique 351 Escort
1993 Ski Nautique purple and black 351 HO PCM


Posted By: GottaSki
Date Posted: June-08-2020 at 2:21pm
IME there is raw gas coming from somewhere, but its going to be hard to tell where when it is blowing around

Bilge airflow often reverses, blower or not, when underway due to the low pressure area created by the cockpit and windshield.

-------------
"There is nothing, absolutely nothing, half so much worthwhile as messing around with boats...simply messing."

River Rat to Mole


Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: June-08-2020 at 2:22pm
Originally posted by Orlando76 Orlando76 wrote:

Hold off on the battery charger part if fumes are as bad as you say.

Todd,
Good thinking. Thanks.

-------------
/diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow -

54 Atom

/diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique

64 X55 Dunphy

Keep it original, Pete
<


Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: June-08-2020 at 2:25pm
Originally posted by Orlando76 Orlando76 wrote:

As for cleaning bulge I always used hot water and Tide laundry detergent. .

Dawn is my choice.

-------------
/diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow -

54 Atom

/diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique

64 X55 Dunphy

Keep it original, Pete
<


Posted By: Atomic Dam
Date Posted: June-08-2020 at 2:57pm
Okay, So based on this information, the steps to take:
1) Don't Blow up
2) Dawn and hose to clean and spray out bilge area
3) Pull stern seat and bulkhead to inspect filler tube and gas tank connections
4) inspect direct fuel lines and connections

Does that bulkhead head easily remove?

-------------
Please support The Cystic Fibrosis Foundation
OEF/OIF US Army Combat Veteran
'75 Southwind 20 Escort 351W


Posted By: SNobsessed
Date Posted: June-08-2020 at 3:19pm
I would remove the engine cover, rear floor panel, rear panel covering fuel tank.

Use paper towels or newspaper to find wet spots. You may have a leaking fuel tank.

Do not turn on any electrical circuit until this is resolved.

-------------
“Beer is proof that God loves us and wants us to be happy.”

Ben Franklin


Posted By: Orlando76
Date Posted: June-08-2020 at 3:24pm
Just to be clear, fumes are there with boat off correct? Bulkhead should be a dozen screws, I never pulled one on a SW. I wouldn’t pull floor just yet.

-------------
Please support The Cystic Fibrosis Foundation
1976 Ski Nautique 351 Escort
1993 Ski Nautique purple and black 351 HO PCM


Posted By: Atomic Dam
Date Posted: June-08-2020 at 4:56pm
Fumes are there all the time. Running or not. Seems heavier at the helm when in motion, but I believe that is only because of the negative pressure behind the windshield.

-------------
Please support The Cystic Fibrosis Foundation
OEF/OIF US Army Combat Veteran
'75 Southwind 20 Escort 351W


Posted By: Atomic Dam
Date Posted: June-17-2020 at 2:43pm
So update. I cleaned the bilge out. pulled the back seat. There is no bulkhead. Once the back-pad of the rear seat comes off, the fuel tank was exposed. I took the filler tube off and I believe that I found the problem. The P.O. had taken quite a large piece of what looked like braided stainless steel cable an ran it from end to end of the filler tube on the outside and attaching it with hose clamps. at each end though he tucked the remaining steel cable into the filler tube and pressed it on to the fuel tank neck, up over the fuel fill point neck. so essentially there was the filler tube with a fat piece of steel between it and making a tight seal on the tank. So when I was fueling up, I had raw fuel leaking out into the bilge area, and if I filled it all the way up, then any fuel that was in the fuel hose just ran down the side of the gas tank. I replaced the fuel tubing between the tank and the external fuel point and hope that will fix my fumes issue. I will be taking it out this weekend to see if that solves my issue.

Once question though. I can only deduce that the P.O. had put that cable there as a ground to the tank. Was that a necessary precaution?

-------------
Please support The Cystic Fibrosis Foundation
OEF/OIF US Army Combat Veteran
'75 Southwind 20 Escort 351W


Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: June-17-2020 at 2:50pm
Originally posted by Atomic Dam Atomic Dam wrote:

Once question though. I can only deduce that the P.O. had put that cable there as a ground to the tank. Was that a necessary precaution?

Yes, I'd say grounding was the idea. Just making sure the tank and deck fill are grounded (all to the engine block) is the norm. Some will go to the extent of grounding all the metal aft deck hardware. If the hardware is just screwed on, longer machine screws are used to go through the deck so wire terminals can be attached below deck.

-------------
/diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow -

54 Atom

/diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique

64 X55 Dunphy

Keep it original, Pete
<


Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: June-17-2020 at 3:05pm
John,
One more thought. Heavy cable is not needed. Your normal 16-18 gauge wire is good.

-------------
/diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow -

54 Atom

/diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique

64 X55 Dunphy

Keep it original, Pete
<


Posted By: Atomic Dam
Date Posted: June-17-2020 at 4:07pm
Originally posted by 8122pbrainard 8122pbrainard wrote:

John,
One more thought. Heavy cable is not needed. Your normal 16-18 gauge wire is good.


Roger that. I will make sure that it's replaced before I go out, and I'll update upon my return. Thanks

-------------
Please support The Cystic Fibrosis Foundation
OEF/OIF US Army Combat Veteran
'75 Southwind 20 Escort 351W


Posted By: Orlando76
Date Posted: June-17-2020 at 6:46pm
How big was the SS braided cable? I’m kinda thinking anything less than a 14ga and good hose and clamp would conform around it, No?

-------------
Please support The Cystic Fibrosis Foundation
1976 Ski Nautique 351 Escort
1993 Ski Nautique purple and black 351 HO PCM


Posted By: Atomic Dam
Date Posted: June-17-2020 at 7:28pm
Originally posted by Orlando76 Orlando76 wrote:

How big was the SS braided cable? I’m kinda thinking anything less than a 14ga and good hose and clamp would conform around it, No?


It was 8awg braided. he tried to fan it out, but the bulk of the wire was impossible to conform to. I'm thinking that just one of the braided filaments would have been plenty.

-------------
Please support The Cystic Fibrosis Foundation
OEF/OIF US Army Combat Veteran
'75 Southwind 20 Escort 351W


Posted By: Orlando76
Date Posted: June-17-2020 at 7:40pm
Oh, well yeah 8 would create a gap.

-------------
Please support The Cystic Fibrosis Foundation
1976 Ski Nautique 351 Escort
1993 Ski Nautique purple and black 351 HO PCM


Posted By: 8122pbrainard
Date Posted: June-17-2020 at 8:56pm
Originally posted by Atomic Dam Atomic Dam wrote:


It was 8awg braided. he tried to fan it out, but the bulk of the wire was impossible to conform to. I'm thinking that just one of the braided filaments would have been plenty.

Sounds like the PO was thinking more for lightning protection than static electricity protection.

-------------
/diaries/details.asp?ID=1622" rel="nofollow -

54 Atom

/diaries/details.asp?ID=2179" rel="nofollow - 77 Tique

64 X55 Dunphy

Keep it original, Pete
<


Posted By: Atomic Dam
Date Posted: June-18-2020 at 1:59pm
Hmm.. didn't think about lightning... maybe I should put it back...

-------------
Please support The Cystic Fibrosis Foundation
OEF/OIF US Army Combat Veteran
'75 Southwind 20 Escort 351W


Posted By: Fabcon
Date Posted: June-18-2020 at 2:19pm
Never be afraid to over build.

-------------
1976 Ski Nautique 351 Escort
1984 Barefoot Nautique (Parting Out)


Posted By: Atomic Dam
Date Posted: June-22-2020 at 11:27am
Problem solved. Took her out this weekend, and there were no fumes, even after filling the tank at the marina. So problem solved. Thanks for everyone's help.

I did have another question though, I don't know if I should start another thread. How much water is normal in the bilge of a Southwind 20?

-------------
Please support The Cystic Fibrosis Foundation
OEF/OIF US Army Combat Veteran
'75 Southwind 20 Escort 351W


Posted By: GottaSki
Date Posted: June-22-2020 at 11:57am
As a rule I prefer to hunt down and address all sources of bilge water.

Then if i see water, i'm certain something is amiss.

-------------
"There is nothing, absolutely nothing, half so much worthwhile as messing around with boats...simply messing."

River Rat to Mole


Posted By: Atomic Dam
Date Posted: June-22-2020 at 12:02pm
Originally posted by GottaSki GottaSki wrote:

As a rule I prefer to hunt down and address all sources of bilge water.

Then if i see water, i'm certain something is amiss.


So no bilge water is the appropriate amount of bilge water. Okay. I have search then.   For a boat that apparently had no issues when I purchased it, it has a new one every time I take it out. This last outing to check my repair on the fuel tank I noticed a pretty heavy amount of bilge water, I pumped it out, thinking nothing of it. When I pulled the boat out of the water, I popped the engine cover to remove the drain plug, and it was pretty full again, so I am taking on water from someplace.

-------------
Please support The Cystic Fibrosis Foundation
OEF/OIF US Army Combat Veteran
'75 Southwind 20 Escort 351W


Posted By: KENO
Date Posted: June-22-2020 at 12:20pm
Your shaft packing will always drip a little bit if it adjusted right, so there's always a small amount of leakage into the boat.

Look at the shaft and the rudder as 2 obvious choices.

Make sure the bilge drain plug is tight too.

Then it's a matter of seeing what else you might find leaking.

See if the leak only happens when the boat is running or if it leaks while parked with the engine off to help you narrow things down.

There are lots of other penetrations through the hull like the strut bolts, rudder port bolts, anything attached to the transom like a swim platform that might have been added, exhaust hoses and their clamps and the exhaust outlets in the transom.

Cooling system hoses, raw water pump seal, freeze plugs, drain plugs on the engine.

maybe speedometer tubing leaking and a few other things I'm sure I missed

I'd vacuum it out on shore so it's good and dry, then launch and look.

It might be like watching paint dry ..........or may be easy to find


Posted By: Atomic Dam
Date Posted: June-22-2020 at 1:01pm
Originally posted by KENO KENO wrote:

Your shaft packing will always drip a little bit if it adjusted right, so there's always a small amount of leakage into the boat.

Look at the shaft and the rudder as 2 obvious choices.

Make sure the bilge drain plug is tight too.

Then it's a matter of seeing what else you might find leaking.

See if the leak only happens when the boat is running or if it leaks while parked with the engine off to help you narrow things down.

There are lots of other penetrations through the hull like the strut bolts, rudder port bolts, anything attached to the transom like a swim platform that might have been added, exhaust hoses and their clamps and the exhaust outlets in the transom.

Cooling system hoses, raw water pump seal, freeze plugs, drain plugs on the engine.

maybe speedometer tubing leaking and a few other things I'm sure I missed

I'd vacuum it out on shore so it's good and dry, then launch and look.

It might be like watching paint dry ..........or may be easy to find


Thank you. I will get on this as soon as this series of storms blows through, and check off the list that you've given and anything else I may find. Based on the amount of water, I feel like it will be obvious once I start really looking for it. It has to be a pretty steady flow.


-------------
Please support The Cystic Fibrosis Foundation
OEF/OIF US Army Combat Veteran
'75 Southwind 20 Escort 351W


Posted By: Jonny Quest
Date Posted: June-22-2020 at 2:00pm
KENO gave good advice. I would start by looking at driveshaft packing and rudder packing.

If you are close to a launch ramp, remove engine cover and whatever else you can so that you have an unobstructed view of the rudder and transom. Drain bilge and reinstall bulge plug. Get in the boat and have a helper back the boat down the ramp. You don’t need to launch the boat at this point. With the boat floating on the trailer, you can look for water seeping in. Use a flashlight.   It should be fairly obvious. This is a good time to start the engine and see if there are cooling system leaks. I like to put the transmission in gear and run at idle — while The boat is on the trailer. This gives you a good opportunity to see the driveshaft packing. You should only have a drip every 10 seconds or so. Others may say more and others will say less drips.

Let us know what you find.

JQ

-------------
Current
2003 Ski Nautique 206 Limited

Previous
2001 Ski Nautique Open Bow
1994 Ski Nautique Open Bow

Aqua skiing, ergo sum


Posted By: Atomic Dam
Date Posted: June-22-2020 at 2:35pm
Thank you Jonny Q, I appreciate the specific instructions.


-------------
Please support The Cystic Fibrosis Foundation
OEF/OIF US Army Combat Veteran
'75 Southwind 20 Escort 351W



Print Page | Close Window