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Engine Warning Light Inputs? '93 SNOB

Printed From: CorrectCraftFan.com
Category: General Correct Craft Discussion
Forum Name: General Discussion
Forum Discription: Anything Correct Craft
URL: http://www.CorrectCraftFan.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=48992
Printed Date: May-05-2024 at 6:09pm


Topic: Engine Warning Light Inputs? '93 SNOB
Posted By: Nauti Gator
Subject: Engine Warning Light Inputs? '93 SNOB
Date Posted: July-03-2020 at 3:08pm
Can someone explain the input wires for the red warning light on the center of the dash of my '93?

If I recall there are 2 wires on the light:

I'm thinking the first wire originates from the oil pressure switch (not sender) is tee'd into the wire from the temp switch (not sender) then it travels to the red warning light on the dash?

What is the 2nd wire? 12v source?

Thanks!








Replies:
Posted By: desertskier
Date Posted: July-03-2020 at 4:44pm
Correct. When a fault is detected by either switch (low oil or high temp) the switch connects to ground and the light turns on. It also grounds the input to the protec module and causes it to go to limp mode.

When you rewire for the DUI make sure to keep that circuit and your light will still work.

You can test the light by turning on the key and either disconnecting one of the wires at the switch and touching it to ground or using a jumper wire from ground to one of the switch terminals.

-------------
92 SN - Owned since 93
99 Pro Air
89 SN - Went to live on a lake in Texas
75 Donzi 16 - Sold in 93


Posted By: KENO
Date Posted: July-03-2020 at 7:27pm
Originally posted by desertskier desertskier wrote:

Correct. When a fault is detected by either switch (low oil or high temp) the switch connects to ground and the light turns on. It also grounds the input to the protec module and causes it to go to limp mode.

When you rewire for the DUI make sure to keep that circuit and your light will still work.

You can test the light by turning on the key and either disconnecting one of the wires at the switch and touching it to ground or using a jumper wire from ground to one of the switch terminals.


I think I'd be lazy and just turn the key from Off to Run and with no oil pressure since the engine isn't running, the Red light will come on if the circuitry is good

It should come on momentarily every time you start the boat, as you pass thru Run to Start.

If you want to test switches separately from each other, then disconnecting and grounding would come into play   


Posted By: desertskier
Date Posted: July-03-2020 at 9:17pm
Originally posted by KENO KENO wrote:


I think I'd be lazy
   


No you wouldn't. You would check them both just like I would.

-------------
92 SN - Owned since 93
99 Pro Air
89 SN - Went to live on a lake in Texas
75 Donzi 16 - Sold in 93


Posted By: KENO
Date Posted: July-04-2020 at 8:18am
Originally posted by desertskier desertskier wrote:

Originally posted by KENO KENO wrote:


I think I'd be lazy
   


No you wouldn't. You would check them both just like I would.


You're right


Posted By: Jonny Quest
Date Posted: July-05-2020 at 1:26pm
And then Ken would disassemble his own dash wiring and show the proper hook-up technique. This would include photos (with Ken’s hand holding something) and a winky emoji. But you would have solid info on how to fix the problem.

There would also be a link to another thread showing a similar problem and fix.

JQ

-------------
Current
2003 Ski Nautique 206 Limited

Previous
2001 Ski Nautique Open Bow
1994 Ski Nautique Open Bow

Aqua skiing, ergo sum


Posted By: Nauti Gator
Date Posted: July-05-2020 at 4:35pm
Thanks guys - I ran new wires to the existing water and oil switches then tied them into the 12v feed that the Protec system previously used - so when I check voltage there is 12v present going to both switches - when I ground the switch the dash light comes on. Is that correct?

Is there supposed to be 12v present at each water and oil switch when the key is turned to the ignition Position?


Posted By: KENO
Date Posted: July-05-2020 at 8:38pm
Originally posted by Nauti Gator Nauti Gator wrote:

Thanks guys - I ran new wires to the existing water and oil switches then tied them into the 12v feed that the Protec system previously used - so when I check voltage there is 12v present going to both switches - when I ground the switch the dash light comes on. Is that correct?

Is there supposed to be 12v present at each water and oil switch when the key is turned to the ignition Position?


In the ignition(Start) position you should have battery voltage which will be lower since the starter is drawing a lot of current right at that time, but there should be voltage present, just like there's voltage present in the Run position.

And when you ground either switch in Start or Run the dash light should come on


Posted By: Nauti Gator
Date Posted: July-05-2020 at 11:18pm
Originally posted by KENO KENO wrote:

Originally posted by Nauti Gator Nauti Gator wrote:

Thanks guys - I ran new wires to the existing water and oil switches then tied them into the 12v feed that the Protec system previously used - so when I check voltage there is 12v present going to both switches - when I ground the switch the dash light comes on. Is that correct?

Is there supposed to be 12v present at each water and oil switch when the key is turned to the ignition Position?


In the ignition(Start) position you should have battery voltage which will be lower since the starter is drawing a lot of current right at that time, but there should be voltage present, just like there's voltage present in the Run position.

And when you ground either switch in Start or Run the dash light should come on


Got it. Thanks!



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