repairing hull
Printed From: CorrectCraftFan.com
Category: Repairs and Maintenance
Forum Name: Boat Maintenance
Forum Discription: Discuss maintenance of your Correct Craft
URL: http://www.CorrectCraftFan.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=5187
Printed Date: May-21-2024 at 6:46am
Topic: repairing hull
Posted By: wakereviews
Subject: repairing hull
Date Posted: November-09-2006 at 3:44pm
Looks like i have a small wound in the hull of my sport. Any suggestions on how to repair?
http://www.flickr.com/photos/thebrown5/290862532/
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Replies:
Posted By: Shortline
Date Posted: November-11-2006 at 3:30pm
I am a new guy on the forum but nobody has answered you yet so I'll give you my opinion. I planned to restore my 87 SN this winter so I purchased some books for information.
Anyhow, from what I have learned, if there is any kind of penetration through the hull, it should be repaired from inside. Grind the area so it is cupped. Pre-cut three pieces of fibergla$$ mat each larger than the other. Gla$$ them in and roll out all the air bubbles. Then, on the outside, you can use a fibergla$$ filler, sand and paint to match.
Small scratches can be buffed out or wet sanded then buffed. I have used Marine-tex to fix little gouges.
Good luck.
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It wouldn't be that hard if the balls weren't so far apart and the boat wasn't going so damn fast!
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Posted By: stang72
Date Posted: November-14-2006 at 11:01pm
How far does in go....are you into the gla$$ matting? It looks like the damage is on the chine..is that correct?
See my post on gelcoat repair...it may be as simple as using a gelcoat paist product.
Marine Tex is a good product for some applications...however it will crack if it is flexed...sooo as the hull flexes , it does not.
Use a poly product....go to the Minicraft of Florida web site...they will have what you need! Call them!
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stang
Face plants are not that funny when it's you face!
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Posted By: David F
Date Posted: November-21-2006 at 9:27am
That damage can and must be repaired from the outside. Use a dremel and grind out the damaged gelcoat and any loose or damaged fibergla$$. If the outer layer(s) of fibergla$$ are damaged, then you must build out with thickened epoxy (or similiar). Leave the repair low to keep room for the gelcoat. Grind the surrounding good gelcoat to a feathered (tapered) edge. Clean well with acetone. Applied the color matched and catalyzed gelcoat so that it is proud of the surround gelcoat. Cover the repair with clear packing tape overnight. Once the patch has cured, remove the tape and wipe the repair with acetone until the rag remains clean after wiping. Mist the area with black paint. Using 220 sand paper, sand the patch down until the black paint is gone. If you are left with a few low spots, get the black paint off with acetone and repeat the patchign process. Re-trace and sand again. Avoid sanding in one small area or you will be left with a depression around the repaired area. With each higher grit of paper, you must sand a larger area. You should trace between each paper grit up to 400. sand to 800 or 1000 grit then compound.
Hope that helps.
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Posted By: Waterdog
Date Posted: November-21-2006 at 10:07am
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When hand sanding use a long board , the longer the better , for a flat finished surface.
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Posted By: David F
Date Posted: November-21-2006 at 10:44am
Yes, good point. NEVER EVER use a rubber sanding block. On a small repair such as yours, a 4" long block works great. Personally, I use a 4" long piece of oak corner moulding. It has radiused edges and a built in handle, plug you have two sanding surfaces.
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