You are making progress, going to be a nice boat.

If that's the timing pointer and the orange paint which became visible while cleaning it up and is on 6, i got that at 600 rpm, it was off, retarded.
If there was a rear sight that would be great but i think it's there.
Fresh gas i believe is what made the difference.

The multimeter is working but also jumping up/down but i can adjustvthe idle screw so it bounces 590-620 for timing and 630-660 on idle. Cause ?

The idle air screws are 2 turns but who knows ! No big change observed
The vacuum gauge is hooked to the port on the spacer and there is new rubber caps on the carb.
The vac swings up/down in the late ign timing area but like mentioned i believe it's at 6 @600

When i removed the vac hose from the port 1/2 ounce of gas came out, it didn't do that on the 79, cause ?.

There are 2 videos to upload and come back to edit this post with some notes/observations

A while back stated goals were to send engine and trans off to appropriate shop for rebuild/freshen up but let's not get crazy $$$$.
I think it's a good engine & trans package to do exactly that,
(have to find shop for both in NE Ohio)

It's going to sit so winterize and cyl oil/fog has to be on point even tho next fall it can be run and repeated or turned over and fog repeated.
Will follow directions on fogging oil can and open to other methods to help ensure it stays a good engine.

Gallon and a half of non meth got a whole can of b12 and 3 ounces of stabil dumped in.
Drain carb line and pump or ????

Drain block, exhaust, dump hoses, impellor already out, fill with 50/50 fog cap exhaust outlets.
How about the mufflers, they are plastic, pretty impressed how much quieter than no mufflers on 79.

Thank you

3M™ Stripe Off Wheel

Level of difficulty 2 of 10, no fumes no burning skin. Works almost right away.
It didn't do much with the decals and did nothing to the pinstripes.
I used more than needed to keep it wet but still used less than 1/2 a 2 qt bucket.

Anybody have a product that removes pinstripes letters and decals i would appreciate it.
They fell off the snob, on the 01, they are like iron.

wayoutthere wrote:  Did i mention highway tire tow and robbery already, maybe i should read my own thread.

Yep, pretty close to those thickness.

couple pictures of the rear were the gas tank can be seen, in the outlined area, the stringers have a flange that crosses all the way from the inboard stringer to the hull side. From the inside it looks like the hull would have a 1/2 inch step but it doesn't.

Another outlined picture of the out board stringer up fron has an elevation change.
That's were they put the floor pan.

My idea is to pull a mold of the stringers and also make a floor pan template/mold.

Think i got dealing with the hard parts of the stringers front and rear, the tough to get at or tough to get out sections so a diy'r could fix his waterlogged maloon special by keeping short sections of existing stringers intact (but clean out the wet foam) and cut in the 50% of stringers section that is easy to get to and easy to get out then tab in a floor pan to finish it off.

Boom, no foam filled rebuild it original waterlogged mess like the factory does.
Same for the 84 hull, well maybe not theres not a problem but theres a problem.
I'll start a seperate thread.

Meantime what your looking at is, aaggh who am i kidding who knows what it is, foam filled
block with a pvc pipe that starts up front by the bow eye behind a dam and dump into the airbox by the front of the stringers. It dumps all that water into the voids around the drivers seat and no doubt is what filled up the empty cavity under the driver se

Anyway, that chunk of foam up there under the bowrider i'd bet weighs 200 pounds.
It's gonna have to wait, crawling up there isn't topping the list and really the deck should come off.

I was in there pulling off 20 pounds of sound deadoning material from the hull sides, so i'll repeat it's a convertible, it's a ski boat, the whole point is to feel hear and smell everything that's going on. you sit next to v8 designed in the sixties. If you want nvh go buy a ***************ing bentley.









gif upload

I wont get a picture of the inside of the engine stringers until they are opened up, that could be next week or in 1 1/2 years as there is a bigger project gearing up and will kick off at the last second. Meanwhile here some thickness pictures and i'll fill in the blanks and show an idea later when i got some time

TRBenj,
I'll cut and get a thickness and photograph the locations. Give me a couple days.

When they laid up the stringers or afterwards a piece of 1/4 inch aluminum plate got boded to the inside of the stringers were the engine goes, maybe in the back too were the angle is lagged to the stringers for the rear hatch and tank support.

I'm moving not sure when so focus is on prep for travel and winterize, hence cut it open get the water out and service the bearings.

From the brochure

Pitots are safe, made it back friday at 1300 hrs. We were extremely lucky.

I did get wayouttathere on tuesday. Took only documents, non replaceables and the don't let that stuff fall into the wrong hands items.

TRBenj,
the only layer count +/- i can give at this point would be the hollowed out portion of the outer stringers and tie-ins, the wide parts and that would be (edit, 2-3 layers) of biax material, its not very strong because of the span, and not very consistent in that area.
The narrow portions forward and rear sections of the outboard stringers are strong, so are the engine stringers, i'll have a thickness once they are cut.

My guess is a male mold too but there is no gel inside or outside. All the stringers ars laid up in a biax material. In fact so is the hull and deck.

Engine stringers are modified with 1/4 inch aluminum and the engine cradle is lagged into the sides and down thru the top. Yep lagged, no thru bolts. Even lags on the transom for hardware that is covered by foam/floor.
Yes, the spray relief pockets and hullside reliefs are all visible and thus far the layup looks good.
Only problem is it looks like the stringers have a flange on the hull so it's a lap joint instead of a "L" or 90 degree bonded to the hull. That means foam could have squeezed in there like it did between the floor and top of the stringers. Have a better picture when all the foam is out and it'll photograph better too.

Gotta ski,
Yours might havexbeen the thread i was looking for about powerwashing the foam out, that was a great idea.
Right now i bought a 5 pack of sawzall blades, the trailer windshield etc should get mu money back but i can't relax at night unless i'm q tippin fiberglass dust outta my ears so we'll try and make something from this hull.

Another intact 01 or pre 01 boat is the ticket to completing the snob, no rush, 1 will pop up and be the hardware, interior and engine donor, the hull will be a bar and grill

Not much to add, but I do sympathize with your project. I can’t say that I’m surprised that the foam is wet, it seems inevitable- closed cell or not.

I find these pics of the composite structure fascinating, big thanks for sharing. I don’t recall anyone digging in quite so deep and thoroughly before (and documenting it). I’m sure I’ll think of more, but a few questions while you’re in there poking around:

How thick is the layup of the ICS? Is it different on the mains vs secondary structures?

I assume there are backing plates on the inside of the main stringers for the engine cradle to bolt to?

Whats the inside of the stringer system faces look like now that you’ve cut some of the tops off? Gel covered? I would have guessed they were laid up on a male mold.

Now that the foam is out, I assume the spray relief pockets are visible on the inside? I can’t really make them out in the pics.

wayoutthere wrote: if anyone can point me to the source for this speedo part off the 96 snob i'd appreciate it.

Somebody asked about the 84 2001 battery/cooler hatches, said i'd measure it tuesday, here ya go and if anyone can point me to the source for this speedo part off the 96 snob i'd appreciate it.
The wood panels measure, 15 7/8 inches X 11 inches, they are 3/4 plywood, the trim lip is 1/4 inch and rhe radius is 3 1/4 inches