Quick fuel carb install questions |
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GottaSki
Grand Poobah Joined: April-21-2005 Location: NE CT Status: Offline Points: 3357 |
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what Ken sez +1
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"There is nothing, absolutely nothing, half so much worthwhile as messing around with boats...simply messing."
River Rat to Mole |
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Xer86
Newbie Joined: May-29-2015 Location: Texas Status: Offline Points: 6 |
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Thanks everyone for the input. I took the time to read up on the power valves a bit more and what you are saying makes much more sense now.
One more quick question about installing the QFT M-600. The fuel line inlet on the M-600 is on the port side of the carb. The 4160 is on the front next to the primary bowl. Obviously the rigid factory fuel line will not work in this case. If I have to replace the fuel line anyway I was thinking to add an in-line fuel pressure regulator and gauge as diagnostic features for the mechanical fuel pump. The question is, does anyone know if there is a good kit to do this or have any recommendations for good part to build a setup like this? I was thinking to go to a local truck shop and see if they could fab a custom rigid line to fit but then I thought that a flexible line may be better. Ideas? |
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KENO
Grand Poobah Joined: June-06-2004 Location: United States Status: Offline Points: 11050 |
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since you had other posts about your Holley having the drips, I see you gave up on the Holley,
Did you do the things people suggested like making sure the tank and everything upstream of the pump is clean so your new carburetor doesn't come up with the same problem? You'll get opinions both ways on the fuel line, if you go flexible you should be using USCG approved stuff It'll have USCG A1-15 for a rating and it's stamped on the hose. It's more resistant to fire than the typical auto hose or even the Aeroquip type braided hose. You'll get opinions on regulator and gauge setups too. Myself I'd use a gauge as a temporary thing to troubleshoot and you shouldn't need a regulator with a pump that puts out around 5 to 7 psi, but some people seem to lower their pressure to 3 psi or so as their cure to things like the "drips". Some other people might call that a band aid fix. |
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8122pbrainard
Grand Poobah Joined: September-14-2006 Location: Three Lakes Wi. Status: Offline Points: 41045 |
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Ken, Didn't you link the USCG details on the fuel line regs? I went looking without any luck. I remember the flex line termination (fittings and clamps) was spec'd too. Matt, If you want to go hard line, pre flared brake tubing and a good tubing bender works. I don't feel having someone off site fabricate the tubing will work. You need the engine in front of you to make the bends. |
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scootdogydog
Senior Member Joined: November-03-2013 Location: Central MA Status: Offline Points: 404 |
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KENO
Grand Poobah Joined: June-06-2004 Location: United States Status: Offline Points: 11050 |
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Here are a couple of links from an old thread
http://www.uscgboating.org/assets/1/AssetManager/ABYC.1002.01.pdf https://www.gpo.gov/fdsys/pkg/CFR-2011-title33-vol2/pdf/CFR-2011-title33-vol2-sec183-558.pdf And Scoot dogs linked line is perfectly acceptable and used by quite a few of the QF conversion people here on CCF. Has the right threads, right bends and it's simple to install |
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Xer86
Newbie Joined: May-29-2015 Location: Texas Status: Offline Points: 6 |
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Keno, I finall got the holley running late yesterday while I was waiting for my M-600 to arrive. I haven't given up. My brain won't let me no matter how much I want to.
I ended up checking the fuel filter and the fuel pump. I measured discharge pressure of 7psi so I ruled it out. Disassembled the carb and cleaned it all again. Pulled the PV and tested it since I had the backfire. I removed the old needle/seat assembly and installed the new one that came in the kit. The new one was a little different dimensionally. I mic'd the needle and the new one was .014" shorter than the old one. The new seat was .019" shorter than the old one. I adjusted the float a few times to compensate for the difference in the needle/seat assembly and finally got it where it was operating much better (not dripping during idle). It still has a little drip once I shut the boat off but its pretty minimal. The boat ran well with noticeably better throttle response throughout the RPM range up to about 4k. It would restart with a single turn of the key which was very uncommon before. No pumping the throttle and multiple start attempts. Not anything like it was before. At this point, I have had so many issues I just don't really trust the boat. It'll run well for a few outings and then out of nowhere it'll have some issue. I figure the M-600 will at least make it much easier to adjust the floats if needed without taking the primary bowl all the way off. When I bought the M-600, I also bought a new Ignitor II EI module and the corresponding 0.6ohm/45kV coil to replace the current setup (Ignitor I / 0.8ohm/40kV coil) but I realized that I ordered an oil filled coil and not an epoxy one so I sent it back today. My plan is to run the boat as-is for the remainder of the season and rebuild the holley completely over the winter when I have some spare time. I will also install the M-600 and probably the new Ignitor II module and epoxy filled coil at that time. Then I will have a spare carb, EI module and coil standing by. Usually for me, if I'm prepared for everything, nothing happens. Fingers crossed! |
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8122pbrainard
Grand Poobah Joined: September-14-2006 Location: Three Lakes Wi. Status: Offline Points: 41045 |
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Ken,
Thanks for finding those links. |
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Xer86
Newbie Joined: May-29-2015 Location: Texas Status: Offline Points: 6 |
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Thanks Scootdog!
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cbr1000dude
Senior Member Joined: August-23-2011 Status: Offline Points: 330 |
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I guess I'm the "bandaid" guy that lowered his FP to 3 psi to make my Holley quit dripping after shut off, and it still works fine thank you. Just remember, the gasoline you are using today is not the gasoline that was available 30 years ago that these carbs were designed to handle. I'm sure nobody has the formulas as these are kept secret, but the floats don't float as well in it. 7 psi was too much for mine after numerous rebuilds and even trying a brand new carb. did not help. Lowering the FP with a Holley FP regulator worked, and it's nice and shiney. My fuel guzzling 454 never drains the bowls, even at WOT for long runs. Just my experience.
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KENO
Grand Poobah Joined: June-06-2004 Location: United States Status: Offline Points: 11050 |
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You did come to mind, but don't feel like the Lone Ranger |
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8122pbrainard
Grand Poobah Joined: September-14-2006 Location: Three Lakes Wi. Status: Offline Points: 41045 |
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Are you thinking the S.G. has changed that much to affect the floats? Did you ever attempt to adjust the float levels? |
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KENO
Grand Poobah Joined: June-06-2004 Location: United States Status: Offline Points: 11050 |
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I seem to remember he tried float adjustments, it works for him with reduced pressure and like I mentioned, others do it too so why worry about it.
Like he said, it works just fine for him |
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Duane in Indy
Platinum Member Joined: October-26-2015 Location: Indiana Status: Offline Points: 1578 |
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Agee with most of what has been said. I would start with getting the carb mounting surface level. Most manifolds are set up with approx 5 degrees taper for auto setups. Boats are more in the range of 15 degrees. Accurate float setting is difficult to achieve with that much angle. As shown in my. "Mustang 17 Rebuild" thread my carb wedge plate has a lot of angle in it to achieve the level mounting surface I wanted
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Keep it as original as YOU want it
1978 Mustang (modified) |
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Gary S
Grand Poobah Joined: November-30-2006 Location: Illinois Status: Offline Points: 14096 |
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