1950 CC Junior Utility Restoration

juniorwoody wrote: Skip the thickeners.

Wrong. You need to do some more reading on epoxy.

Yes, the resin is the "glue" that creates the bond but the type of filler used gives the joint the strength level needed.

Again:

8122pbrainard wrote: The only thing I would use and only in areas where you don't see any movement such as the stem lamination is a urethane or epoxy. The reason 5200 has been so successful with wood boat hulls is it will flex to a point. The opposite is true with epoxy and the reason the failure rate is very high.

Jack, I had to do some laminations on the Hurricane, I used epoxy with micro fibre or what's being refered to here as milled fibre. I'm sure it is the same product and is just finely chopped glass strands.   

For my layup I did cpes everything then applied the lightly thickened epoxy to both surfaces in the layup. I really think the micro fibre allows for less of the epoxy to be squeezed out during clamping and will also fill any voids from uneven surfaces.


Here's the lower transom frame made from 4 - 1/4" strips.


edit... And all set into place in a bed of 5200. Good luck with the clean part of the project . Get yourself a quart of Xylol for 5200 cleanup.

81nautique wrote: Jack, I had to do some laminations on the Hurricane, I used epoxy with micro fibre or what's being refered to here as milled fibre. I'm sure it is the same product and is just finely chopped glass strands.    For my layup I did cpes everything then applied the lightly thickened epoxy to both surfaces in the layup. I really think the micro fibre allows for less of the epoxy to be squeezed out during clamping and will also fill any voids from uneven surfaces. Here's the lower transom frame made from 4 - 1/4" strips. edit... And all set into place in a bed of 5200. Good luck with the clean part of the project . Get yourself a quart of Xylol for 5200 cleanup.

Thanks for taking the time to explain the process complete with pictures Alan. I am a visual learner and the light went on when I read your post. It is mostly a question of knowing which adhesive to place in which locations.

juniorwoody wrote: Thanks for taking the time to explain the process complete with pictures Alan. I am a visual learner and the light went on when I read your post. It is mostly a question of knowing which adhesive to place in which locations.

Your welcome, I think other than your laminations you will be using 5200. I see you had to replace a section of chine, I had to on one side of the Hurricane as well. Soak all that old framework and plywood with cpes until it just won't take anymore in.

juniorwoody wrote:     Thanks for taking the time to explain the process complete with pictures Alan. I am a visual learner and the light went on when I read your post. It is mostly a question of knowing which adhesive to place in which locations.

The guy in the link below had a good FREE video on this topic 2 months ago when I found his site, but now it appears he is charging for them. It seemed to be a good source for more than just cold laminating, but many wooden boat repair topics. I have no idea how much he wants $$ wise.

http://www.townsendboatworks.com/video.html

mountaineerminer wrote: juniorwoody wrote:     Thanks for taking the time to explain the process complete with pictures Alan. I am a visual learner and the light went on when I read your post. It is mostly a question of knowing which adhesive to place in which locations. The guy in the link below had a good FREE video on this topic 2 months ago when I found his site, but now it appears he is charging for them. It seemed to be a good source for more than just cold laminating, but many wooden boat repair topics. I have no idea how much he wants $$ wise. http://www.townsendboatworks.com/video.html

It seems like all that's needed is a utube act which I have. I browsed the movies and couldn't find the one specific to cold laminating. When my materials get here I'm going for it. The site does offer a wealth of information.

Ouch my back hurts

A few pictures to show progress although it does feel like steps backward at times.

81nautique wrote: What on earth were they thinking with the stem construction on these boats. Every darn one of them is junk. Make a good template before pulling it off there Jack.

No doubt Allen, I was looking back on your thread today about page 7 and saw striking resemblences to your stem. A good template is a must. Gets a bit scary when the old is removed and there is nothing but air between the topside and keel. I have done considerable bending and noticed you soaked the strips first. Don't remember that being necessary. I need to set up for bending real soon. Not much salvageable there.

8122pbrainard wrote: Jack, The soaking is a suggested practice before steaming. When I laminated up my new stem, the strips were thin enough that I did not need to steam them.

As I examine the now exposed stem I begin to see a little method to the madness in the way the original stems were constructed. It seems that they build a somewhat toothpick scaffolding reaching out from the keel that consisted of four to six staves bolted on to the keel. When flexed all together notwithstanding a kerf carefully executed at the optimum location, these staves served to support each other as the shape of the stem was bent. Each individual piece slid a little to allow flex. When secured to the bow and the chine the shape held true. All this accomplished without extensive processes, a factor most important when turning out boats by the hundreds. The application of plywood cinched up the deal and it is amazing how well the toothpick stems have held together for all these years. Where do we go from here as Allen might say. Burn the pieces or salvage and reconstruct.

Jack,
Sorry but no pictures. It was a simple form made from an old sheet of ply and some blocking that I clamped all the laminations to.

BTW, I notice plenty of oil soaked frames (typical of an old wood hull). If I haven't mentioned it to you before, here's what you need to do. Get some oil dry and grind it finer almost to a powder. I spread it on the floor and used a steel lawn roller to grind it. Mix the fine oil dry into a paste with a strong solvent like Toluene that doesn't evaporate real quick. Pre brush the oil soaked wood with the solvent and the spread the poltice of oil dry/solvent on these areas. It may take a couple treatments but just as oil dry sucks oil out of concrete, it does the same on wood.

8122pbrainard wrote: Get some oil dry and grind it finer almost to a powder. I spread it on the floor and used a steel lawn roller to grind it. Mix the fine oil dry into a paste with a strong solvent like Toluene that doesn't evaporate real quick. Pre brush the oil soaked wood with the solvent and the spread the poltice of oil dry/solvent on these areas. It may take a couple treatments but just as oil dry sucks oil out of concrete, it does the same on wood.

Yikes!

Sounds like a heckkuva mess!

I ain't never had a garboard I wanted drained?