Can water get into the heads. |
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tjeffery72Mus.
Groupie Joined: December-23-2006 Location: United States Status: Offline Points: 45 |
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Posted: April-02-2008 at 7:59pm |
When I did this test on the battery and what not I ran water into the cooling system by way of hose which would substitute as the lake...
When I shut the engine off I still had the water on and it pretty much locked the engine up for the next time I tried to start it, what I had to do was take the spark plugs out and turn it over to get the water out... Did this hurt my engine, is it normal, I dont know because I have never had to deal with exhaust manifolds like this...??? Please help... Tom... |
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The Guy.
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boat dr
Grand Poobah Joined: June-27-2004 Location: United States Status: Offline Points: 4245 |
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Water cannot get into the cyl. unless you have major problems....
1.. Busted exhaust manifolds/ improper winerizing 2.. Bad riser gaskets or sever pitting at mating surface 3..Busted head/go back to #1 Most likely # 1, was water in all cyls. or just one or two????????????? Boat dr |
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tjeffery72Mus.
Groupie Joined: December-23-2006 Location: United States Status: Offline Points: 45 |
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now that I think about it, it was mainly only comeing out of the one piston... 1 or 2, From the sound of this engine and the way it runs I would not think that there is something seriously wrong, but I really dont know... It runs good...
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The Guy.
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8122pbrainard
Grand Poobah Joined: September-14-2006 Location: Three Lakes Wi. Status: Offline Points: 41045 |
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Tom, I really wouldn't call water is the cylinders a minor problem! Go with the Doc's 1st possible problem and check the exhaust manifolds first. The H/M's are aluminum and are noted for problems. A friend last summer chased a water problem in the same engine for several months last spring. Even pressure testing the engine and manifolds showed nothing. Turned out to be a small hole in the exhaust riser. (there is no easy way to test them.) |
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tjeffery72Mus.
Groupie Joined: December-23-2006 Location: United States Status: Offline Points: 45 |
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Man, I am really not looking forward to pulling those off, I am going to have to though beacuse I really like this boat and I dont want to have to rebuild the engine right now... Any suggestions????
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The Guy.
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8122pbrainard
Grand Poobah Joined: September-14-2006 Location: Three Lakes Wi. Status: Offline Points: 41045 |
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Do a compression test first. You don't need to remove anything for that. If it doesn't show anything, then go to a pressure test on the water. If I remember correctly, you will need to remove the exhaust risers and make some block off plates. The risers are feed cooling water directly from the manifolds and are not a separate cooling hose feed. (someone correct me if I'm wrong on the H/M set up) Add water and some compressed air at the hose from the pump to the block. 15 to 20 psi valve it off and see if the pressure drops. If it does, look to see where the water is coming from.
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8122pbrainard
Grand Poobah Joined: September-14-2006 Location: Three Lakes Wi. Status: Offline Points: 41045 |
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Tom, Pressure test - I did know someone did use two of these plumbers test plugs to block off the water ports inside his risers. Don't know if it would work on the H/M's. Depends on the shape of the ports. If they are just holes, then it would work. If they are protruding type venturies then it may not. It would save you from removing the risers and making block off plates. Looking inside may be a problem! If you have a small head maybe you can see up inside after removing the exhaust hose!!!
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8122pbrainard
Grand Poobah Joined: September-14-2006 Location: Three Lakes Wi. Status: Offline Points: 41045 |
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Tom, I just wanted to comment once more regarding the pressure test. It is only a means of trying to isolate the leak to ether block or exhaust manifolds/risers. It may save you from lots of unbolting!
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reidp
Platinum Member Joined: December-06-2003 Location: Mooresville, NC Status: Offline Points: 1804 |
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Any resolution on this yet Tom? As for unbolting manifolds, these lightwgt HM pcs are some of the easiest. You should be able to unbolt them from the engine w/o disconnecting from exh hose. Swivel manifold away from engine at front and hook the water hose to the water inlet on the manifold and run water thru it. While of course it's best to really pressure test it, your water hose will simulate the engine pump's pressure and will often reveal a leak in the manifold. As Pete noted, you will have to separate the manifold from the riser with a block-off plate to pressure test the manifold. I made mine from thin sheet metal. If there's a leak in the riser, I would think the water wouldn't make it all the way back uphill to the 1 or 2 cyl bypassing 4 and 3. Let us know what you find out.
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8122pbrainard
Grand Poobah Joined: September-14-2006 Location: Three Lakes Wi. Status: Offline Points: 41045 |
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Tom, Yes, don't leave us hanging! Especially Reid since he is such a H/M freak. We are a concerned group here!
Reid brought up a good point in that if you are getting the water out of the #1&2 cylinders, then it probably isn't the manifold. Yes, the water from a manifold leak will get to the lower cylinders first. Reid, Have you ever looked up inside a H/M riser at the water jacket ports? Are they just holes flush with the bore of the exhaust passage or are they protrusions with the hole angled down to create a venturi effect? I can't even remember if I have ever looked inside? |
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Tim D
Grand Poobah Joined: August-23-2004 Location: United States Status: Offline Points: 2641 |
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With age, #1 and #5 would be the first exhaust ports to burn through the back side into the water vein.
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Tim D
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reidp
Platinum Member Joined: December-06-2003 Location: Mooresville, NC Status: Offline Points: 1804 |
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Pete, inside the downward dumping HM riser, water mixes an inch or so up inside the pipe just before it tapers down to accept the 3" exh hose. Is that what causes the venturi effect?
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8122pbrainard
Grand Poobah Joined: September-14-2006 Location: Three Lakes Wi. Status: Offline Points: 41045 |
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Reid, The protruding water ports I'm thinking of, (don't remember who's riser) I really don't know if the design was intended to create any venturi effect or was just a added measure it keep the water going in the proper direction. Now that I think about it, I would think the latter! Besides making the exhaust passages bigger and reducing sharp bends, I don't think the manifold were very high tech. I asked about protruding water ports because I was curious if the plumbers test plug trick would work on the H/M's.
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tjeffery72Mus.
Groupie Joined: December-23-2006 Location: United States Status: Offline Points: 45 |
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Ok so I have only been getting water in from one side of the engine, does that mean the I only have to pressure check that side or do I have to do both, i guess I would have to do both but Im not sure, my other question is am I going to be able to get gaskets to replace the ones I have taken out, I think discount inboard marine sells the ones I neeed but im not sure again, I think I need item number 1125 can someone check for me and make sure???
I am ready to get this done, sorry for the absence but I have alot going on in life right now... THANKS |
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The Guy.
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TK-421
Newbie Joined: October-14-2007 Location: United States Status: Offline Points: 26 |
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You got some great advice and your situation is much different than mine.
The first summer I had my nautique the starter went. When I ordered a new one I gave the guy the engine number and told him it was the opposite turning engine on the 81'. He sent me the wrong starter. Well I proceeded to suck water through the pipes and filled all cylinders. Petrified I called Correct Craft and they assured me it was no big deal. Just do several oil changes to get all the water out of the system, get the correct starter and I should not see any other problems. I did 3 or 4 oil changes before we got it all out. My dad is an engineer at a Nuke plant and took in an oil sample for spectro-analysis to see what water was left. None. The boat has served us well for the past 6 years and is running strong. |
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