Voltage drops when Nav lights are on

For a while I have been noticing that when I first start the boat, after a week of storage, the voltage is really low 9-10V. Then it goes back to normal. Last night when I turned the nav light on the voltage droped from 12V to 11V and after a couple of minutes the breaker tripped. Do I have a short somewhere? Could it be something alternator? Like a regulator or something like that? Any ideas?

Thanks,
Tony

anthonylizardi wrote: For a while I have been noticing that when I first start the boat, after a week of storage, the voltage is really low 9-10V. Then it goes back to normal. Last night when I turned the nav light on the voltage droped from 12V to 11V and after a couple of minutes the breaker tripped. Do I have a short somewhere? Could it be something alternator? Like a regulator or something like that? Any ideas? Thanks, Tony

The breaker in the engine tripped or the one on the dash?

anthonylizardi wrote: The Navigation Lights breaker on the dash.

You are drawing more current than the breaker can handle then. Check your bow light to make sure the contacts are not corroded. Work your way back to the switch.

Tim

Pete-

What makes you think the breakers they used are cheap?

I don't see any reason to replace the wire with larger wire unless you increase the amperage draw of the light. If you have a ground issue find the issue and correct it. Sometimes you can mask a potential future problem by not finding the actual problem.

Fix the problem, don't be a parts changer.

Tim

I will start troubleshooting and see what is causing the draw. I have voltmeter and ampmeters. Thanks for the ideas. Now I have a starting point.

behindpropeller wrote: Pete- What makes you think the breakers they used are cheap?

Tim,
I should have used a different term here! Less expensive would be better. One thing for sure is the breakers used are not what I would consider a high end thermal magnetics. They will go and need to be replaced. This is why I recommended using the mutimeter to check the actual draw.

behindpropeller wrote: I don't see any reason to replace the wire with larger wire unless you increase the amperage draw of the light. If you have a ground issue find the issue and correct it. Sometimes you can mask a potential future problem by not finding the actual problem. Fix the problem, don't be a parts changer.

Yes as others have mentioned, I was referring to the feed up to the dash. Sorry I wasn't more clear on that. This is a known problem with undersized wire and does cause voltage drops.

mine also has this problem!!! I will try to correct it also...

Oh my connection are Kaplastyle!!! so what is the correct tape to use to cover the connections? regular electrical tape is a no go..

I wouldnt go through the trouble of disassembling the harness and removing the original wire- thats a PITA. Just add another one. The original should be 10awg, I would add another one of the same size or a 8awg (Both 12V constant and ground).

Seb,
A high grade insulated and tinned "sta-con" (crimp on connector) is fine but if not insulated then I'd use heat shrink on them. There are also some types that come with heat shrink on the connector themselves that are adhesive lined. When you apply heat, it will shrink and bond to the wire insulation.

Tony,
Besides the above, you want to use marine grade wire. It's fully tinned preventing the copper wire from corroding. I've seen plenty of green connections!!! As Tim mentioned, don't forget both the feed and the ground.

Mike,
2ga.!! That's good for over 100 amps. Wow, must be some HD amps up there! Ether that or you plan on hooking up a welder to it! You're correct though - as long as you're pulling wire, it doesn't hurt to pull oversize.

If you are going to add amps and all of that crap:

Use one of your dash switches to run a relay. Then pull the power directly from the relay to your audio stuff. No reason to run from the battery to the engine and then back to the dash.

Tim

Mike, Id do both- no harm in that. You might want to consider changing out the 50A fuse though. That 2awg can carry up to 181A safely. A 75A or 100A would be plenty safe still.

behindpropeller wrote: If you are going to add amps and all of that crap: Use one of your dash switches to run a relay. Then pull the power directly from the relay to your audio stuff. No reason to run from the battery to the engine and then back to the dash. Tim

Thats assuming the source (battery) is closer to the loads (dash) than the engine, and there is a clean way to run the wires between them. Thats not always the case. The stock set up is one scenario- unless you like the way wires coming out of the battery box look.

behindpropeller wrote: If you want to do it correct you really need to go directly to the battery. Otherwise you can watch your gauges bounce to the bass

Youre still talking just about the stereo, not the dash loads. Not applicable in anyones setup here, I dont think! Also, while its always smart to keep your power runs as short as possible (between battery and amps), so long as you account for the voltage drop due to the longer cable run to the engine and fuse everything correctly, everything will behave just fine and it wont have any effect on the dash. No one is suggesting that anyone run a high powered stereo off the ignition breaker, by the way- thats just absurd.

My stereo gear, as it run now:
-non powered deck is run off the ignition breaker. Nearly no draw at all.
-PDX amps are run directly off the battery thru dist. blocks. My deck has the amp trigger wire to turn those on.
-I am going by memory on the fuse size at 50A.

I will report back when I get to this project. I think I will be fine.