Sad Day For My 86 Eliminator Tranny

Hi Guys,

It's been awhile! I have a 1986 Ski Eliminator with a 351 and Borg Warner Velvet Drive 1:1 Tranny. It has provided me many years of superb performance thanks to the help from you guys over the years.

Recently, we were out enjoying the boat, pulling one of my son's friends on a wakeboard, and all of a sudden I here a clunk and lose forward. I lift the doghouse to find tranny fluid spewing from the front of the transmission. I tried to refill to limp back to ramp, but it's flowing out quicker than I can refill... so I have the boat towed back.

My wife and I have a very busy out-of-town work schedule this summer, so a friend suggested a local reputable Mastercraft Dealer in Michigan to get an estimate on the complete job. R and R, rebuild, and alignment. I got the call yesterday with the "insider discount"... and I was shocked!!!

Here is the quote.
R and R Tranny
Rebuild Tranny including pump
Alignment
Total = $1900 and some change

I ask about new Damper Plate... not included. That would be an extra $300 and some odd dollars!!! They weren't even planning on replacing it!!!

SO!!! You can guess who I am calling this morning?!? Yep Eric!

So next week... the project begins. I am somewhat mechanically inclined, and do follow directions well. So I am hoping you guys might help walk me thru the process of R and R, and alignment.

In return... if it would be helpful... I would be willing to document the process with photos and an outline to post to the reference section (even tho it's not a CC).

From my research so far, I will need:

2 bottle jacks, and a couple blocks of wood, and tools.

Here is what I've grasped of the process so far...

1. Loosen front motor mounts.
2. Remove rear motor mounts.
3. Use bottle jacks with wood blocks under them to raise back of engine vai the exhaust manifolds..
4. Remove cables, components, etc. (with before photos for reference)
5. Disconnect Drive/Shaft Coupling, and slide out of trans.
5. Remove Tranny with Bellhousing attached.
6. Separate Tranny and ship to Eric.
7. Replace Tranny, Damper Plate and Components
8. Align
9. Go skiing again.

Does this sound about right? Any comments, feedback, or clarification would be GREATLY appreciated.

Tranny removal will begin next Mon or Tues.

Thanks in advance!

Joe

Thanks Pete,

I'm pretty thorough with research and planning... it's just the EXECUTION I'm a little nervous about. Slow, steady and methodical will be my motto.

Any thing else I should check/replace while I have her apart?

Thanks for the encouragement!

Joe

Joe,
I've never removed engine tranny etc., but why must the engine motor mounts be loosened and then the rear of engine elevated. With the shaft coupler loosened and the shaft removed is there not enough aft room to slide the transmission off?

Swatkinz wrote: Joe, I've never removed engine tranny etc., but why must the engine motor mounts be loosened and then the rear of engine elevated. With the shaft coupler loosened and the shaft removed is there not enough aft room to slide the transmission off?

Steve,
With our typical I/B sitting so close to the hull to get as shallow a shaft angle out the tail end as possible, usually there isn't enough room to slide the splined input shaft on the trans off the dampner. The aft end doesn't need to come up very much but extra clearance is needed.

In the "old" days of the wood boat, the frames were cut so thin under the aft end of the engine/trans just to get it lower in the hull, this was always where you'd find a frame failure. Ask Alan on what he found in the bilge of his Hurricane. The wood "craftsmen" out back at the CC "factory" did some work with their "finishing hatchets". I found the same on my Atom and I've seen several other CC hulls confirming they were absolutely wood butchers. Crude to say the least but the fact is, our I/B's sit low to the hull. Take a look how close the oil pan is to your hull.

From what I've learned... Eliminator is a custom race boat manufacturer that built a tournament ski boat for a few years in the mid 80's. They are known for their gel work. Perhaps they bought molds from Malibu or vice-versa, but I'm am not aware of any connection. I have had several people make that comment tho.

Cheers.

Joe

I'm just courious why you pull the trans with the bellhousing still attached?

Whitfield wrote: WoW that thing looks clean! ON your other items ~ Here are a few I can think of. From car work ~ I've always been told to check / change the rear main seal while the trans is out. I would also replace the transmission cooler lines as well. While the flywheel is off check the starter ring gear for excesive wear. Flipping or replacing the ring gear might save you some troubel down the road if it looks like the teeth have excessive wear.

Thanks for the compliment on the boat and for the suggestions of other things to inspect/replace while I have her apart.

You guys rock.

Joe

For me the deciding factor is weather I am manually lifting the trans by hand or by mechanical means.

By hand I'd want to loose all the weight I can.

I prefer the block and tackle with a hand winch under a shade tree as the extra legnth of the cable give me more room to move it around for lineing up the holes. I find that way easier then removing a trailer wheel hoisting the trans over the gunnel with an engine lift.     

Eric,do you have any spare cases for the velvet drive?I would love to have a fresh tranny but don't want to pull my working unit without a replacement.

form&function wrote: Eric,do you have any spare cases for the velvet drive?I would love to have a fresh tranny but don't want to pull my working unit without a replacement.

Hey Ryan,
I'll bet you Eric can help you out but I suspect you won't get answer until maybe tomorrow morning! If I remember correctly, I do believe he just took a load of scrap iron blocks to get money for the beer kitty!! Plus, it's Friday night an he may be down at Rico's!

BTW, if you are planning on doing a rebuild yourself, get the internal parts from Eric. He's got the good clutch pack plates that don't break - not available elsewhere!!

Also BTW, after seeing your workmanship and what you did to that boat, I don't feel you'll have a problem with with a trans rebuild. However, you know Eric is around every morning unless you happen to pick the weekend he's out having his penal implant done!!   

eric lavine wrote: ha spare cases or spare transmissions? Pete, believe it or not it was to GD hot to drink beer

Eric, that is why they make coors light.

I would rather have a top notch working tranny than the parts to rebuild.After all thats your job and im sure your better at it than me.
The problem is the boat being used four times a week so its a little hard to take apart but I might could find the time later this year.

joed wrote: Hi Guys, . . . Recently, we were out enjoying the boat, pulling one of my son's friends on a wakeboard, and all of a sudden I here a clunk and lose forward. I lift the doghouse to find tranny fluid spewing from the front of the transmission. . . . Joe

Hey Joe, glad you got the tranny fixed. Did you ever find out what failed and let the fluid spew out the front?

My jet boat is an Eliminator, also an '86.



I never realized they built a ski boat, that is in awesome condition and you certainly won't run into many like it!

Good luck with the tranny - mine from my '63 is at Eric's right now.

I am the original owner of a 1986 Ski Eliminator. My boat has 1400 hours on it and has never been in the shop. I'm a cheap bastard and do all repairs myself. Hopefully I can clear up a few things. The price quote for a tranny rebuild was about right. There is no need to loosen ANY motor mounts to remove the tranny. Malibu Boats bought the mold from Eliminator sometime around 1988 to build their first boats. The bilge blower draws air from one of the rear air vents. The motor draws air from the front vents via a duct that runs under the front seat. How do I post pictures?