Added New Dash Ground to 93 with Pics

Nice work. I like the idea of running it to the engine rather than right to the battery. Slick!

Did you just do the ground only?    I like the explanation written on the pictures, what did you use to do that? How many volts did you pick up at the dash?

I added a 2 batterys, 2 switches a ground bus for the batterries and a voltage sensing relay last weekend. I'm sick of wiring, but the stereo will run for many hours now and that is making the detailing process much easier.

I just did the ground. My local west marine only had 8' rolls of 10gauge red, so I figured rather than butt connecting two together, I would wait until I could get a 15' piece and do it right. I also ordered a new Ignition breaker from Nautiqueparts, as the old one was a little suspect, but I'm still waiting to get it in the mail. So, I figured I'd do that together, I have to pick up some more terminal connectors as well.

Everything works about 80% better with just the new ground, but the blower does still slow down a little bit when you turn the key to on. I cleaned up/re-insulated and re-connected a lot of the connections under there that looked suspect too, and that helped things as well.

I'd be curious to see pictures of your stereo/dual battery install; sounds cool. Are you using the PerfectPass itself to test voltage at the dash?

I actually just used Microsoft Paint that comes with Windows to add those little text boxes. There's a tool that looks like a "A" and you can draw a little box in the picture then write in there. You have the option of the white background, or just putting the words right on the picture. I used the white background so it would stand out. You can also use Paint to cut down the image sizes. That's why I was using it, then I discovered the text box thing.

I'm a Apple person so no windows, I'm sure I can find something if I look.

I'm getting the volts from the guage on the dash, 13.5 if I remember. There's still some drop, the new alternator is putting out 14.5 at the battery. I haven't checked to see what's changed with all the new wiring. I do know that there isn't any drop between any of the batteries and the amps, I was a little worried because I moved 2 of them to the other side of the boat. I haven't even started the motor so I don't know if anything has changed at the dash, but it shouldn't have.   Once I get done with the detailing this weekend I'll figure out how to post up my wiring diagram for the batteries, there's not much to see, I tried to make everything stealth and hidden so pictures wouldn't help much. I'm not the best with electrical stuff, but I'm learning, I was very glad that evrything didn't burn to the ground when in hit the switch the first time.

The ratcheting crimper really comes in handy. If you close it one "click" on to your terminal, it will just hold it in place automatically. Then, you can more easily insert your stripped wire end into the opening. Well worth the money over the cheapo one I was using before.





The multi stack terminals are very useful. You take a length or wire, and attach these to one end, and a ring terminal to the other. You put the ring side on your bus bar. Then, the multi stack connection can connect to your gauge, and re-connect the original daisy chain on top, to keep it in tact.

It's the OCD I guess    I did it partially for the pictures too.

The cargo liner is nice, cause it keeps everything contained. Black isn't necessarily the best choice when working in the afternoon sun though.

I got the ground bus bar at West Marine. There is a big one near me that has a good selection of all that stuff.

Keep in mind, the one I used is actually a two circuit one. I made it all into one circuit with that one wire that loops back onto it. I chose that particular model, because it's low profile. Some of the other ones had studs that were really tall.

Neither of those sound right, blacks are grounds. Do all the lights work for all the gauges?

Whatever you do, shrink and seal everything. Every time I've had an issue it has started or gotten worse because the boat got too wet. It seems like no mater what at least once a year mine gets caught out in the rain somewhere that I can't keep it dry like I do when I'm at home.

tbeard wrote: With my dash pod out of the boat I replaced 2 breakers and checked all the wires and replaced the speedo bulbs. I have 2 disconected wires??? There is one black wire running from the ignition switch over to the area of the breakers that is disconected. I have no idea where it connects. Are you sure it is black? It should be red. Unless someone has done some wiring of their own. Black typically signifies ground, and the ignition switch is not dealing with ground at all, it is just switching positive voltage. Does your 88 have a separate push button ignition breaker and key? My 93 has that. If it does have that seperate breaker, there should be a wire that carries switched voltage from the breaker (usually red) to the battery (input) side of the key switch. The black wire is connected to the ignition terminal with 2 purple wires and 1 pink? This black wire is really a red positive I'm guessing. Then, you should have one purple for iginition to the motor, and the other purple tends to go to gauges and accessories that are for key switched voltage. They both go to the IGN (Or on part of your circuit). The Pink must be your starter wire, cause that's all that's left. I also have a very small resistor connected to the ignition breaker terminal that is not connected to anything on the other end? This is one of two things. It might have something to do with the little red lights that indicate a breaker is on. The other thing it could be is the Capacitor (I think it is called?) that deals with the Nav/Anchor lights. It's meant to be one way, so that when you switch on your navs, the anchor (stern) lights get power too. But, when you switch on your anchor lights individually, the front Nav light should Not get power. I personally like the idea of having them just be separate anyway.

Of course, pics of what you're looking at will confirm.

New "electrician" taking a shot at this upgrade. I have added the bus, cleaned up some wiring under the dash with the original ground chain, but am now second-guesing my choice of where I ran the new ground on the engine. After looking earnestly (I have Pro Tec) I wired to the battery ground on the engine block up front and THEN found what I believe is the original ground on the back of the engine. Do I need to run my new 10 AWG back to the original ground or am I good the way I have it? Thanks in advance!

Under the dash pod, the new bus:



The new "front" ground on the engine block:



The original ground at the back of the engine (the post and nuts to the right of center):

Yup, I agree. Your choice of dash-to-engine ground should work great.

One note, when you use a "dual" bus, as a single (ground only) bus, you have to remember to make a loop to connect the two sides to make it all one.

It looks like you did that, but it's a little tough to tell for sure with the picture.

In an ideal world the block is just a big ground buss.

PP goes on the purple wire, run the ground to the buss, grey goes to the tach.   Be sure to use Enoch wire so that you can still flip the dash and work on things.

Keith's video will probably show where, I've never done one of those. Doesn't sound much different though, red to the battery wire at the key, purple to the switched terminal at the key and black to the ground buss. I'm guessing it's not as temperamental about the voltage as the PP.