V-drive oil leak |
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Nautique Fan
Senior Member Joined: October-24-2010 Location: GA Status: Offline Points: 120 |
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Posted: November-25-2012 at 2:10pm |
While cleaning up my boat getting ready to install a new steering cable, I noticed it had oil in the bottom of the hull. I cleaned everything up, and placed clean shop rags under the boat to sit for a week. The boat stays in the garage, so it was pretty easy to make sure this method would pick up the leak and not just precipitation.
What I found was the shop towels under the v-drive showed a few drops of oil. Here is the history on the boat. I owned this boat, a 1997 Nautique Super Sport for about a yr, sold it to a buddy and bought the boat back. During the time my buddy owned it, he changed the pump and the gasket on the bottom of the v-drive unit as it had a leak when I sold it to him. Due to not being able to determine where exactly on the unit the leak is coming from and the boat being 15 yrs old, I think I want to pull the v-drive out of the boat and order a full gasket kit from Walters and just replace all seals/gaskets. I guess what I need to know is how envolved is it to pull a V-drive on one of these boats and change seals. Is this something I can do myself or should I pull the unit and send it to Eric Lavine? Anything I need to know before I attempt to pull the V-drive? |
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1997 Nautique Super Sport
1989 Ski Nautique 2001 (Sold) |
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8122pbrainard
Grand Poobah Joined: September-14-2006 Location: Three Lakes Wi. Status: Offline Points: 41045 |
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Chad,
Wipe down the trans and then keep the shop towels under it. You may be able to ID the source but my gut feeling is the V trans will need to be pulled. If you can, do not get parts from the Walters whores. Seals should be off the shelf and I would cut my own gaskets before buying them from Walters. If you do pull it, you will want to check the backlash on the "U" joints inside the box. Walters went cheap and evidently did not have the the capacity nor desire to use bevel gearing on the small boxes. Their engineering those smaller V drive boxes is slim to say the least. Using a U joint, there is a velocity/RPM change every 90 degrees of shaft rotation. Although small it sets up some real bad harmonics/vibrations. Their salesman used to visit the site until Eric our trans expert cut him a new one!! Check it out VERY carefully. BYW, CC doesn't use the Walters box anymore! Hint!! |
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Nautique Fan
Senior Member Joined: October-24-2010 Location: GA Status: Offline Points: 120 |
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Thanks Pete, when pulling the v-drive am I better to pull the whole transmission and v-drive as one unit or is it easier to just pull the v-drive off the back?
I have pulled transmissions/transfer cases out of old FJ40's but never pulled one in a boat. I am thinking that if I have to pull the v-drive I might as well just do the whole unit and replace the rear main and transmission seals while I am there to make sure this problem goes away and I only have to do the job once. I hate oil leaks and will plan on changing the u-joints in the v-drive as well while it is all apart. |
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1997 Nautique Super Sport
1989 Ski Nautique 2001 (Sold) |
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Nautique Fan
Senior Member Joined: October-24-2010 Location: GA Status: Offline Points: 120 |
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Decided against pulling the vdrive at the moment. I made new seals for all panels on the back of the vdrive and for the reservoir. Cleaned it and will put oil in it in the next few days after I check alignment to make sure that everything is sitting where it should be. I have seen threads on alignment of a direct drive. I am sure the philosophy is the same for a v-drive but was wondering if there is anything I need to pay special attention to on a v-drive?
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1997 Nautique Super Sport
1989 Ski Nautique 2001 (Sold) |
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