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Raw Water Strainer Hard to Screw On/Off

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boardersdad View Drop Down
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    Posted: July-06-2013 at 2:06am
1984 Ski Nautique 2001
Engine Model PRD WR R10
Pleasurecraft Marine
Right-Hand Rotation from Rear
351 CID -- 255 h.p.
Warner Velvet Drive Model 10-17-003
Direct Drive (1:1)



Just as the subject says, the clear bowl on our raw water strainer (plumbed prior to the trans oil cooler) is very hard to turn when threading on or off. The gasket looks brand new (and the gasket isn't even in contact until the turning is about done, anyway, so it's not part of this issue).

I'd like to lube the threads with something that makes sense. I was thinking silicone spray, but thought I'd check to see if anyone else has been through this.

Thanks.

Steve
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ny_nautique View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote ny_nautique Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: July-06-2013 at 4:06pm
I have the same boat and engine and yes, the plastic on plastic is a bit rough. I too used some silicone spray to get it back on.
- Jeff
1999 Ski Nautique
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backfoot100 View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote backfoot100 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: July-08-2013 at 11:33am
Go to to a Home Depot or Lowes in the plumbing dept. and pick up a small container of plumbers grease. It looks like vaseline and is not a petroleum byproduct so it doesn't hurt the O-ring. Just smear a little bit on the threads and the O-Ring. Won't have to reapply for years unless you deliberately wipe it off.
The silicone spray is one time thing and probably has a petroleum base to it.
When people run down to the lake to see what's making that noise, you've succeeded.



Eddie
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Hollywood View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Hollywood Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: July-08-2013 at 1:01pm
If its that tight you might want to get a new one. The interference within the threads might prevent you from getting a good seal at the o-ring and cause an intermittent idle overheat.

Saliva makes a good lube in a pinch!
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east tx skier View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote east tx skier Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: July-14-2013 at 10:12pm
Originally posted by Hollywood Hollywood wrote:

If its that tight you might want to get a new one. The interference within the threads might prevent you from getting a good seal at the o-ring and cause an intermittent idle overheat.

Saliva makes a good lube in a pinch!


Indeed. Such is life.
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boardersdad View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote boardersdad Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: July-17-2013 at 3:06pm
I had tried a little silicone spray before backfoot100's post about plumber's grease. The silicone helped, but the petroleum products in the spray stained the inside of the clear bowl. I'll eventually get a new strainer and use plumbers grease; other issues to deal with for now.

Related question: I expected the strainer to flow water down the outside of the mesh and then up the center, so that any collected debris would be visible through the clear bowl on the outside of the mesh. But our temps were going up a bit so we pulled off the strainer bowl and the *inside* of the mesh cylinder was heavily coated with algae. Is the water supposed to flow from inside to outside? This seems backasswards.

Thanks.
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