Idle question

That sounds like it's it within the range of normal to me.

15 minutes is in that weird in-between region of down time where it might benefit from choke, but then again might not.

Now, when you're off for the 15 minutes, do you have your ignition on? If so, this would keep the electric choke energized and keep it from closing.

How's your choke working in general?

Is the is the only symptom you're seeing?

No I don't ever leave ignition on. Carb is a newer Holley about 1 1/2 years old. Recently I replaced exhaust manifolds though and mixed up 2 plug wires I had a backfire through carb when I tried to run it. I had this problem before this though.

We've seen plenty of brand new Holleys drip right out of the box the past few years. I'd look at that first, it's easy enough to do.

Ok thanks guys going to check that this weekend

TRBenj wrote: We've seen plenty of brand new Holleys drip right out of the box the past few years. I'd look at that first, it's easy enough to do.

Mine is doing this with increasing frequency.

What is the best resolution? I see Holley has a 10-pack kit - keep replacing until you find a good one?

I also see on their website that they offer Viton seats & steel seats. Which one is a better bet?

Thanks in advance for your advice Tim!

Checked the carb this weekend and everything looked good. No dripping after shutdown and power valve is good.

Zach - It is Daytona & they don't have one that fits Holley. I bet it is a patent issue.

I was wondering if the temperature buildup under the dog house has any effect on this problem- It never starts hard when we 1st put in. I might take data of occurrences with doghouse down vs. open before I take apart the carb.

Edit - I emailed them to ask when they might have a Holley version available . . . must be spring fever taking hold here, getting itchy to improve the boat.


Here is Daytona's description (the artwork wouldn't copy); they don't have a size that fits Holley:


PLUNGER OR NEEDLE... The plunger in the DAYTONA FLOAT VALVE is aluminum and therefore non-magnetic. A flat alcohol resistant rubber disc fits in a concave opening at the end of the needle. This opening has a high point of center, which allows the disc to float and seat properly at all times.

FLUOROCARBON ELASTOMER RUBBER DISC... The flat rubber disc is a synthetic product, and is highly resistant to oxygenated fuel, swelling, and loss of resiliency, when in continual contact with modern alcohol laced gasoline.

VALVE BODY... The DAYTONA FLOAT VALVE body differs from the standard valve in one vital respect; one end of the orifice has an inverted flare design and this "raised shoulder" allows the flat fluorocarbon rubber disc to seat perfectly each time, increase fuel flow rate, and control excess fuel pump pressures.


The DAYTONA FLOAT VALVE was designed to prevent flooding, caused by dirt, rust, excess fuel pressure, etc. As a result, it does maintain a constant fuel level. In addition, it will increase performance, give smoother idling, and increase fuel economy.

OK, got an email back from Daytona. They do have the their needle & seat available now (it's hard to tell from their web site). They said just to email them the carb# (on the horn) so they can get the right one to you.

This is the direction I will go.

Next decision I should make, change floats while I have the bowls off?