Lean Condition - Reman 351w + Holley 4160

I don't think you can accurately assess rich vs lean by inspecting the plugs in this manner with today's gas. You would need to run a controlled test and then plug chop so you can measure the size of the soot ring at the base of the insulator. Are there any driveability issues that would lead you to believe you're actually lean?

I would set the timing to 10-12 initial, and verify you don't exceed 36 final- and that it's all in by 3k rpm or so. That will give better performance than 6 initial.

1. I'm willing to bet is a timing issue.
2. Sounds like your idle adjustment needs some tweaking

I assume you've verified that the carb does not leak through the boosters at idle or after shutdown? Some people think their engine needs throttle pumping to start because it needs more fuel... When in actuality it's flooded and benefits from the extra air (in which case holding the throttle open is more advantageous than pumping it repeatedly).

LeftFieldEngineering wrote: Lean tip-offs : Occasional backfire if I jump on the throttle too quickly (could also be timing related) 2 pumps to start the engine, whether it's hot or cold. I'm taking it to my engine guy this afternoon, I'll have to give the 10-12 deg time a shot.

Backfires and lean a POP are two completely different things. Backfires are caused by spark at the wrong time. Hense, timing issues or crossed plug wires.
Until you can get the right timing at the right RPM, pumping the throttle for starting is not a good cause/effect indicator of the true problem.

Yes, they will drip at 1000 rpm, when the system is compromised, its then running off the transition slots that pulls fuel from the mains and the air bleed will perk fuel up the the booster and drip.

Set timing as Tim sez,

I think you could still have a vacuum leak, and/or the idle fuel circuit is boogared up, hense the inability to set clean, strong idle at 600.

I agree the plugs look right and not indicative of other issues.

Are you use the base gaskets from the rebuild kit (troublesome) or a nice Felpro base gasket?

Tom just steered me right last week saying too low timing could be causing my pop/backfire on take off. Moved it up from about 8 to 10ish. Accelerates great now.

Be sure to set the timing properly once you get your idle down to 700. 10-12 at 1000 might be a good first step but it's still not the end goal.

Andy, how was the shape of the carb internals when you rebuilt it? Was it pitted at all from fuel sitting in it? I've seen the metering plates have tiney corrosion on the face side but the inside be a lot more corroded than they seem. That will definately be giving you some problems with adjustment.
Also as mentioned above, there is no substitute for a good gasket kit, I like the blue foam gaskets wayyy better than those older style paper ones. They can be taken off and reused in a pinch too they are a good quality.

ok thats good, yeah the blue gaskets for the plates and bowls is what i was referring to.

LeftFieldEngineering wrote: At this point I'm into it for 5k and I've used it for all of 2 hours. $2500 bucks an hour is not impressing the missus by any means. Any more bad news and I'll be sleeping in it.

Hey! We must've bought the same boat! I'm putting my sleeping bag in it tonight.

After resetting the distributor & verifying all the plug wires we fired the motor up again. It would run at 1k rpm and dripped fuel from the primary boosters. When we adjusted the idle speed below 1k rpm it would slow the dripping (I assume trying to run off the idle circuit) and die. The next step was to pull the primary bowl and metering block to double check the passages / blow everything out again with cleaner. After verifying all the passages were clean we reassembled the carb and fired it back up. This time it was only dripping from the starboard booster. After some more experimentation we found that by partial covering the outermost starboard air bleed with a screwdriver it would run PERFECTLY FINE. So well in fact we were able to get it to idle at 600 RPM for proper timing and even got it to idle down to 500 rpm and stay there. If you completely cover the hole it has piss-poor throttle response and uncovered it will die.

Do I think it’s still fixable?   Yes. However I don’t want to wait any longer. I’m 10+ months into this build and with temperatures in the upper 80’s this week I want to be on the water finishing the boat shakedown not taking the carb off the the 30th time.   

To do this I picked up a re-man Holley, new base gaskets (the good ones), and a new flexible fuel line for $370. Once swapped out I plan on giving my current carb to my engine guy to tinker with. Even if we fix my current carb having a spare on the shelf for less than 280 bucks puts my mind at ease.

As for the existing carb if anyone has any ideas what would be causing this single booster leak / idle condition I'd still like to experiment and find the problem / solution.

I sure hope so, bought it from skidim. Flexible Fuel Line

You need to pay closer attention Pete... We have the previous version of flex uscg line that SkiDIM used to carry on our BFN. Hard lines work grea on stock builds as they're much cheaper. Flex lines are nice for taller intakes and varying intake/spacer/carb set ups.

Since I've pulled the carb a dozen times in the past month I've probably lost more than 76 bucks in gas & shop towels letting it piss all over ever time I've pulled the flare to check something. Fool me once carburetor. On top of that the hard line from skidim is back-ordered till the end of the week.

This is true Brian. Just sold one yesterday to a MC guy browsing the CCF.com forum installing a QF on his Indmar 351. I wish the small block line was a little shorter but the big block one is 100% perfect even for a slightly taller intake.

Anywho, I really want to play around with a QF here soon and I may be working a deal with a local supplier to get smokin deals on QF so I can pass savings along to you dudes.

I want to toy around with one but we will have to see what money lets me do as it runs just fine at the moment the carb just looks like poop.

Also, if you try everything my money is on a vacuum leak if you cant get it to idle below 1000 rpms. Problem with the Holley is they didn't allow enough extra fuel in the idle circuits to let you compensate for slight vacuum leaks or leaks from throttle shaft wear.

We half covered #1.