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Crankcase full of tan oil

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    Posted: June-11-2016 at 3:37pm
Just picked up a 1989 SN with a 351. It has not been run in 4-5 years, but I am told it was winterized prior to being laid up in the garage (all I saw was an 'empty' fuel tank). Not starting, No surprise there. I suspect that the fuel pump may not be working, but first I want to get some insight on what I see on the dipstick. Previous owner (father-in-law) looked at the dipstick and said a-okay. I took another look and it looks very wrong. Level is several inches above full and the color is way wrong. I suspect water has gotten in there. Question is, could this be a result of sitting for 4-5 years or should I be thinking failed gaskets? I feel compelled to drain the oil and refill it so I can keep trouble shooting fuel delivery and get it fired up running on a hose. I am totally new to inboards and just want some opinions on what I am seeing. Photo of scary dipstick below.

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Gary S Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: June-11-2016 at 3:46pm
Was that oil sitting in there all that time it was laid up? Could be a bunch of things some as simple as a gasket others as bad as a cracked block. I would drain and change it and go from there. Once you get it running you can go from there and see whats going on. Being an 89 it should be a left spinning engine,same as automotive, that will make it easier to decide what to do if it is bad. Use an oil that has a high ZDDP like Valvoline VR 20-50. There should be a hose attached to the oil pan,run that out thru the hull drain towards the front under the engine,might have to let it drain for a day since its not up to temp.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Jonny Quest Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: June-11-2016 at 4:12pm
`Gary's advice is spot-on. If you don't have the "Timmy T" attachment for running the boat on the hose, you want to install one of these. Mine is between the water strainer and transmission cooler.



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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote dabeastro Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: June-11-2016 at 4:28pm
Drained the oil. Wish my truck was that easy! Nothing but water for the first pint. Then a mix of oil and water for the next quart or so. Now a dripping sludge...which bothers me because this thing should have 4 quarts right? Oil cap is off... Maybe it was laid up without oil and I am just seeing whatever trickled down, combined with 4-5 years of condensation?

Thanks for the ZDDP suggestion. I was wondering if this was a flat tappet setup. 20-50 seems pretty thick. Is that suggestion from personal experience with a 351? I figure I will change it again after a few hours on the water, just to give a little TLC to a motor that has sat for so many years.

Not sure about the rotation. I found a model decoder, but it does not seem to jive with what I've got. Here is my model number. A link to a decoder would be much appreciated.

PLD-PR-R12/PP
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Gary S Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: June-11-2016 at 4:34pm
PLD,the L stands for left rotation. A picture of the trans will confirm,it should be a PCM trans. I don't think you'd get that much condensation just sitting
Many of us use the 20-50 I have it in both a 302 and a 351 GT40
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote dabeastro Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: June-11-2016 at 4:37pm
Going to get me one of those T setups. Right now I pulled the intake hose off the tranny cooler and attached my own hose leading to a bucket, which gets water from the hose (once I finally get some suction). Does that seem reasonable? Pic attached for clarity.

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote dabeastro Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: June-11-2016 at 4:54pm
PCM 1.23:1

Guess that means I have a proper left-right setup?

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 63 Skier Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: June-11-2016 at 5:20pm
Brad, since you don't know if the milky oil was run through the engine or just sat there, I'd recommend filling with clean oil and replacing one quart of it with diesel fuel, run for 5 minutes at idle, then another complete oil change. Clean oil won't flush the milkshake out of the engine.

Then again I guess you don't know if it's going to start up for you. Maybe figure that out first, then do the engine flush I suggest. You can just leave it a quart low if need be while you try to fire it up.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote tryathlete Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: June-11-2016 at 5:42pm
If the boat was left outside and the cover leaked and water built up in the bilge it is possible this water seeped into the oil pan and made the iced latte overfill. No way condensation would add quarts to the pan.

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote dabeastro Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: June-11-2016 at 5:55pm
Originally posted by 63 Skier 63 Skier wrote:

Brad, since you don't know if the milky oil was run through the engine or just sat there, I'd recommend filling with clean oil and replacing one quart of it with diesel fuel, run for 5 minutes at idle, then another complete oil change. Clean oil won't flush the milkshake out of the engine.

Then again I guess you don't know if it's going to start up for you. Maybe figure that out first, then do the engine flush I suggest. You can just leave it a quart low if need be while you try to fire it up.


Good suggestions, although I've read mixed opinions on the diesel flush.

Thinking about it, I bet it was not winterized before sitting. It was always garaged, so rainfall is not likely. So how else would water have gotten in there if the not on the water. And if winterized, the oil would have been drained. Making things more fun, there was probably a bunch of ethanol infused fuel sitting in there before I added some fuel to try and start it. Gonna siphon that and replace it with some good corn free gas.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Gary S Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: June-11-2016 at 6:06pm
Yes you have a Left hand rotation and yes to the bucket also. As to the milky oil I would venture to guess that yes it has been run because the oil and the water are mixed. I don't think it would be mixed that well just from trying to start it. He'll know more when he gets it to run,I had a bad manifold which I found out by water on a spark plug and Tim B's help
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Gary S Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: June-11-2016 at 6:08pm
If not winterized was it kept in a heated area?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 74Wind Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: June-11-2016 at 7:25pm
Originally posted by dabeastro dabeastro wrote:

Originally posted by 63 Skier 63 Skier wrote:

Brad, since you don't know if the milky oil was run through the engine or just sat there, I'd recommend filling with clean oil and replacing one quart of it with diesel fuel, run for 5 minutes at idle, then another complete oil change. Clean oil won't flush the milkshake out of the engine.

Then again I guess you don't know if it's going to start up for you. Maybe figure that out first, then do the engine flush I suggest. You can just leave it a quart low if need be while you try to fire it up.


Good suggestions, although I've read mixed opinions on the diesel flush.

Thinking about it, I bet it was not winterized before sitting. It was always garaged, so rainfall is not likely. So how else would water have gotten in there if the not on the water. And if winterized, the oil would have been drained. Making things more fun, there was probably a bunch of ethanol infused fuel sitting in there before I added some fuel to try and start it. Gonna siphon that and replace it with some good corn free gas.


Oil is not drained when winterizing
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote dabeastro Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: June-11-2016 at 8:42pm
Originally posted by Gary S Gary S wrote:

If not winterized was it kept in a heated area?


Garaged in heated area.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 63 Skier Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: June-11-2016 at 8:44pm
On the flush, if you prefer there are engine flush products at auto parts stores. I've used them and have a feeling they are basically diesel (#2). Not sure what you've read but neither oil nor heat of running will get rid of the oil/water emulsion, so I prefer the flush to rid the system of it. The key is to just run at idle or slightly above for 5 minutes, just circulating it through.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Jonny Quest Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: June-11-2016 at 8:45pm
I believe that the following apply for your engine/trans code:

PLD-PR-R12/PP

P=PleasureCraft
L=Left Engine Rotation
D=5.8 (351W) non-high output -- 260 HP
P=PCM Transmission
R=Reverse Transmission Gearing
R=Right Hand Propeller Shaft Rotation
12=1.23:1 Transmission Gear Ratio

-- At least this what my 1994 CC Owners Manual indicates.

On an engine flush, you could just buy some discount (private label) oil and run through the engine while idling and up to 1,500 RPMs or so. I've done that before and changed the oil out after 15 minutes or so of driveway running.

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote dabeastro Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: June-11-2016 at 9:44pm
Changed up the oil and filter. Cranked on it a bit. Nothing. Threw the throttle and saw gas in 2 of the 4 Holley ports (Should the other 2 be dry?) Seems to be cranking kinda slow. But I've got 12.5 on the battery. Thinking I should start another thread now that I've got the oil issue (temporarily) in check. Not sure where to go from here. Thinking of siphoning the fuel, checking for spark, and checking compression.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 63 Skier Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: June-12-2016 at 12:25am
Check for spark. Easy to do, will rule out quite a few issues if you have a strong spark.

If it seems to be cranking slow boost it with another battery or a vehicle. Is it the same battery that has sat with the boat for 4-5 years?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 8122pbrainard Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: June-12-2016 at 8:31am
Originally posted by Gary S Gary S wrote:

As to the milky oil I would venture to guess that yes it has been run because the oil and the water are mixed. I don't think it would be mixed that well just from trying to start it.

Brad,
I concur with Gary that it sure looks like the engine has been run to emulsify the oil and water. If the water somehow got into the pan, there would be a definite separation between the water and oil. Yes, you said when drained, you got water first but that would be from some separation during the layup.


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote gun-driver Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: June-12-2016 at 2:46pm
I agree with David (63skier) on the diesel. If that sludge has been sitting in the motor a little diesel isn't going to hurt it any worse.
I wouldn't waste my money on expensive oil till you get it flushed out and track down the problem.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote MdFooter Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: June-12-2016 at 3:49pm
Brad, IMHO, that much water in the oil is a water jacket leak of some type. For me, it happened when we blew a head gasket and the rupture allowed cooling jacket water into the crankcase. Water also flowed out of the spark plug hole. :( New gasket, lots of oil flushes, new filter every time, to get out all of the water.

Slow cranking could be lots of corrosion in the rotating assembly or possibly (worse case) a 'hydraulic lock' of one of the pistons trying to compress water. (which it doesn't). Pull all the spark plugs and then crank to note the cranking speed. Also look for water, spray vapor, etc from the plug holes, this would usually indicate a head gasket problem.

As far as the carb, the accelerator pumps only squirt in the front two barrels.

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote dabeastro Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: June-12-2016 at 10:50pm
Ran dry compression test. Looks low, but nothing suggesting a crack.

#1 - 105
#2 - 103
#3 - 102
#4 - 103
#5 - 102
#6 - 105
#7 - 103
#8 - 110

Then I checked for spark. Nothing on any wire. Guessing this calls for cap and coil replacement? Think I'll start with coil. Interested to hear any other ideas.

Got the slow crank resolved. My new battery was a defect. Replaced it and it's turning well again.

I am hoping it is just a head gasket that let all the water in. I think this seems likely based on the compression test. Although I did not see anything coming from the plug holes during the test.

I really appreciate all the replies!
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Gary S Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: June-12-2016 at 11:38pm
Do you have points or an electronic ignition system? You could have an intake gasket leak ,that would not show up on a compression test or most likely an exhaust manifold leak. They cooling passages are very thin where the riser bolts to the manifold. When you get it running you might be able to see water on a sparkplug
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Points.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 8122pbrainard Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: June-12-2016 at 11:57pm
Originally posted by dabeastro dabeastro wrote:

Points.

Surface corrosion on the points contact faces due to the layup. Pull some 2000 grit abrasive paper though the points when closed to clean them up.


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote tryathlete Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: June-13-2016 at 12:04am
Gary, what's the best way to isolate an exhaust manifold water jacket leak? Those seem kind of fatal in a way.

Pulling the intake manifold is pretty quick and it's easy to tell if you have a breach. Exhaust manifolds are a bitch to remove most of the time and just wondering if you could not bore-o-scope through the drain plug end and get a look see (but what would you see to indicate a leak? Curious.

By the way--heated garages always scare me. I see a lot of garage doors open at night even in winter.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 63 Skier Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: June-13-2016 at 12:36am
Like Pete suggested, try the simple stuff first on the ignition. Don't just replace the coil, see what is getting power first.

I don't think I've ever seen such closely grouped compresson numbers - almost makes me suspect the gauge.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote dabeastro Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: June-13-2016 at 12:58am
Damn straight. Polished the points a bit and fired right up! I'll probably have them replaced for good measure. Takes me back to the 80s and early 90s when I owned cars I could work on!
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote dabeastro Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: June-13-2016 at 1:01am
I am thinking the water did not get into the cylinders directly. No water behind the plugs and it is actually running okay. Does that point to head gasket. I'd be just fine with that.

This particular heated garage was always closed with the utmost anal retentiveness.. Father in law has a few other very nice toys in there and does not take security lightly.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote dabeastro Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: June-13-2016 at 1:03am
Originally posted by 63 Skier 63 Skier wrote:

Like Pete suggested, try the simple stuff first on the ignition. Don't just replace the coil, see what is getting power first.

I don't think I've ever seen such closely grouped compresson numbers - almost makes me suspect the gauge.


I kinda thought the same thing. The gage is circa 1995. But then again, I think most will agree that the old stuff was built better. High precision with age related accuracy is my hope. I will get it warm and run the numbers again in the near future.
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