strut berings

Is there any way to replace the strut bearings without removing the shaft and without special tools? Thanks

I can't just tap them out with a screwdriver and hammer if the prop is off?

I just replaced mine on my '84. It has a single tappered shaft and it wasn't fun but it was do-able.
You're going to have to remove the coupler that connects to the transmission from the shaft. You'll also need to remove the prop and rutter.
This is the way I did it:
Put the new bushings in the freezer. Sprayed the inside of the coupler with PB Blaster a couple of days in a row and again before geting started. Loosen the set screws in the shaft safety collar and remove the shaft packing nut.
Remove the prop. Remove the steering bar from the rutter and the packing nut on the rutter. Have someone below to make sure the rutter doesn't crash to the ground. In my case, the boat was in exactly the wrong place on the trailer. The rutter was hitting the prop-propector bar. So I used a floor jack and a 2x12 to lift the boat enough so the rutter would clear the bar. Be careful and wear gloves, the rutter is sharp and heavy.

Remove the two square-headed set screws from the coupler. Since the tranny was out, I had enough room to use a gear puller. I held the outer collar of the coupler with a big pipe wrench and a friend cranked the stud on the puller. It was rough but the coupler finally came off.   Make sure the shaft key is out of the shaft.
The pull the shaft out from the stern.
I cleaned the coupler with solvent, then simple green and shined it up with emmory cloth. Then put it in a 400 degree oven for 4 hourse (really).
In the mean time, I used a steering wheel puller (the kind with a weight that slides back and forth on the handle -- I've also heard thrm called a slide hammer puller) to get the bushings out. I put to of the claws in the bushing, then slide the third in and attached it to the puller. Oh, don't forget to remove the set screws on the side of the strut.
I cleaned the shaft and keys with emmory cloth.
Took the new bushings from the freezer and tapped them into the strut with a rubber mallet. Align the ridges of the bushings so it creates a continous grove. Then in with the shaft, have one person under the boat to guide it through the thru hull. I had to get it some whacks with the mallet to get it in. Using water to lubricate the bushing may have made it easier.
I put some high temperature anti-sieze on the shaft. I don't know if that does any good. Place the key in the shaft log. You and your helper put on a pair of oven mits. Put the coupler in a skillet and carry it out to the boat. Hand the pan to the helper who is already in the boat. Set the skillet on a piece lumber so it doesn't melt the carpet.
Slide the coupler on. I gave it two good whacks with the mallet and it slid right into place.   I let it cool over night then painted it a nice glossy black.

Now, supposing you don't have a gear puller and a fancy pants slide hammer, I've heard of doing this way (but I have not personal experience).
Separate the shaft/tranny coupling. Place a deep socket in the coupling, centered on the shaft. I would say a 1/2" deep would do it. Buy some longer bolts (say 3-1/2") and place them in the coupling holes. Alternatly tighten the four bolts until the shaft is free. If you have a douple tappered shaft, you don't need to do all this.
As far the bushings. I've heard of two methods.
1. Use a socket that has an outer wall slightly bigger than the shaft but smaller than the strut diameter. Tap the socket through to knock the bushing out.
or
2. Insert a hacksaw blade through the inside on the bushing (where the shaft would go) and commence to sawing.   Stop before you saw into the strut. Use a cold chisel to get a lip up and some needle-nose to pull it out.
It's not hard, it's just a pain.

I've also used #2 method with success.

Jimbo, very innovative!

Thanks for the complements guys, but I must give credit where credit is due...
I figured some of this out on my own from experience like since I was a kid and not having the proper tools to work on things...things like building a submarine at age 14
I learned some by reading these boards which have been a God-send. And I've gotten some tips from Vince and Richard at Discount Marine And some I learned in college!
83SN2001...pulling the strut seemed like a good option. I just didn't do it. I'm sure heating that strut up to 400 degrees and putting the bearings in the freezer would have made them slide together like, hmmm, like something slick.
Never under-estimate the co-effient of expansion!

3M marine sealer around the bolt holes

Reviving this thread because I am about to do the dreaded cutlass/strut bearing replacement.

Based on my reading of all the strut and bearing threads, plus Eric's alignment thread, it seems like I can drop the strut and swap out the bearings. Next, remount the strut (seal the mounting bolts) and do the alignment.

Three questions: Does the above sound about right? What am I missing? Who wants to come to southern Maryland and help me?

Thanks,

Mike

Thanks 79, already done. I should have mentioned that.

btw, I have been following the GL thread - looks like you all had a good time. Sorry I missed it.

In your opinion, will my plan work?

Thanks,
Mike

Mike, The strut doesn't need to be removed from the boat to replace the cutlass. Some other threads have mentiond it but a length of threaded rod, nuts and large fender washers make a great tool to press it in while on the boat.

Mike, I think removing the shaft is the easier way even though you will need to drop the rudder. If you pull the strut, it then needs to be resealed and then I would recommend checking the alignment of the strut to the engine. If it bolted back on in a slightly different position then the engine will need to be moved. I have also seen shims between the strut base and the hull put there to line it's bore up with the hole in the bottom of the boat.