1993 SNOB Dash overhaul

Hi all,

Given I finally have some time on my hands I am getting to some much needed boat maintenance. First job is to fix the wiring in the dash.

Problem: Perfect Pass turns off whenever I start the bilge pump, blower or any other accessory, and all the gauges flicker and read higher whenever an accessory is on.

Also, prior to start-up Perfect pass does not have enough power and starts and stops until the boat is running.

I have read other dash upgrade posts, but I am not sure how far I should go.

I have run new Positive and Ground feeds to the dash, replaced all the wiring on the breaker panel, I didn't like the piggy-back design for the breaker so i installed a Buss Bar.

I have not started the gauge wiring yet. Should I remove the daisy chain for the Ignition (purple wire) to all the gauges, and the daisy chained Grounds to same? Or will the upgraded wiring to the accessories solve my problem. If yes, should I do the same to the daisy chained gauge lights (blue wire)? Not sure if I need to renew every dash wire, but if this is recommended let me know.

Some of the connectors to the gauges is this large rubber 3 pronged boot (looks waterproof) that I cant get the wires out of so I will either need to splice longer lengths of wires to the existing wire, or chuck the boots and use a ring connector, Not a big issue, but if it works I am not keen to change it unless this daisy chain is the source of my problems). I am hoping the weird breaker wiring has fixed my issues (unneeded wires were going everywhere and some wires were corroded).

If anyone has replaced the wires in the rubber boots, how did you do it?

Connecting new Positives and Ground - what is the best way to connect the new + & - cables from the engine? Before the pugs to the dash, or run it to the dash with a plug, or leave extra wire so I can get under the dash, and should I leave the existing cables there?

The Positive feed at the Engine breaker is covered in silicone, is this normal? and if so, should I replace the silicone when I hook up the new + cable?

That's it for now, any ideas would be great.

FYI, i am using marine wire, heat shrink and am even trying out those waterproof solder joiners.

yes, they are very good, but I they don't answer the questions I have posted.

that is, should I remove the gauge ground daisy chain, ignition gauge daisy chain, and blue light wire daisy chain to the gauges, or just add a better ground to the existing wires, as there is not much voltage usage at the gauges. I have used a Buss for the breakers, and will be upgrading the feeds as per other posts, but i am not sure whether the gauge cluster is the source of my problem.

However, if others have renewed the gauge cluster wires i am interested in the results.

I suspect I may need to renew connections or wires to the accessories attached to the breakers as well, if the breaker upgrade does not work given that its when I turn on the bilge etc the electrical issues start.

The other questions regarding the best way to connect the new feeds, i can figure out.

Maybe I should also document the work for others.

What did your reading find? Which route are you going?

Awesome! Well done!

final outcome:

Finished all the engine wire feed upgrades and cleaned up the wiring.

Now I am getting a .2 voltage drop to the dash, with engine not running and .5 drop when boat is running. I could possibly upgrade the Alternator wire that might help, but I am happy with the results.

FYI, there is enough thread on the engine breaker to add additional feeds and went with 8 gauge hot feed,

The biggest difference was re-wiring the Breakers to Buss Bars, upgrading the ignition feed wire gauge and the new ground and positive feeds.