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94 Sport fuel?

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DougsdevilCC View Drop Down
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    Posted: June-27-2020 at 1:46pm
Baffled. 94 Sport 351. 490 hours. Hesitated around 2300 rpm and would not speed up anymore. Replaced fuel filter with a whole new mount and filter. Rebuilt Holly 4 barrel, wasn’t dirty. Replaced fuel filter again. Starts and runs good for the first few minutes and then hesitates again. Could it be something other than fuel issues?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (1) Thanks(1)   Quote KENO Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: June-27-2020 at 2:40pm
Originally posted by DougsdevilCC DougsdevilCC wrote:

Baffled. 94 Sport 351. 490 hours. Hesitated around 2300 rpm and would not speed up anymore. Replaced fuel filter with a whole new mount and filter. Rebuilt Holly 4 barrel, wasn’t dirty. Replaced fuel filter again. Starts and runs good for the first few minutes and then hesitates again. Could it be something other than fuel issues?


Of course it could

Since 94 was one of the "ProTec" years, it would be good to know if you have the ProTec ignition system with 4 coil packs on the back of the engine and a funny looking sensor up front where the distributor normally goes...............or if it has a distributor up front in the normal spot.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote DougsdevilCC Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: June-27-2020 at 5:28pm
Yes, Protec
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (1) Thanks(1)   Quote TRBenj Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: June-27-2020 at 5:43pm
Sounds like limp mode. Better check your knock sensor, and oil/temp switches. Unplug one at a time to determine the offender.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (1) Thanks(1)   Quote Mpost Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: June-27-2020 at 5:53pm
Does the check engine light come on when you turn the key to on before starting? If not I'd go with Tim's suggestions. If it does light but not when the problem is occuring, it could be and obstruction in the fuel pickup/anti-siphon valve. that gets sucked up after running for a bit. ??
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote DougsdevilCC Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: June-27-2020 at 7:08pm
Siphon valve is clean with good push back
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote DougsdevilCC Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: June-27-2020 at 7:17pm
Light does come on when switch is turned on.
Is the pick-up hard to get out of the tank?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote DougsdevilCC Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: June-27-2020 at 9:50pm
Pick up tube screen was clean
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Jonny Quest Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: June-27-2020 at 10:35pm
Tim hit it. Probably going into “limp” mode on ProTec...or ProTec is dying.

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (1) Thanks(1)   Quote KENO Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: June-28-2020 at 8:13am
Originally posted by DougsdevilCC DougsdevilCC wrote:

Baffled. 94 Sport 351. 490 hours. Hesitated around 2300 rpm and would not speed up anymore. Replaced fuel filter with a whole new mount and filter. Rebuilt Holly 4 barrel, wasn’t dirty. Replaced fuel filter again. Starts and runs good for the first few minutes and then hesitates again. Could it be something other than fuel issues?


I think a better description of what happens is needed here.

Is it a steady misfire that goes away when you reduce speed and then it runs normal till you hit your 2300 rpm again?

Like Mpost said, if it's going into "Limp Mode" the Red light should come on, since your Red light functions on startup.

Does it stall like it's running out of gas?

If I wanted to see if it was going into Limp Mode.I'd look at the diagram below and then disconnect the wire from the low oil pressure switch ( not the sending unit) and also the wire from the hi water temperature switch ( not the sending unit) , tape the ends so they can't ground against the engine block which would put you into Limp Mode and take the boat for a ride. Do the same with the knock sensor.

If it still does the same thing, your sensors aren't putting it in Limp Mode since they're disconnected.

Look at the diagram below to see the location of the ProTec switches. The oil pressure switch is in a "T" next to the oil pressure sending unit near the oil filter. The water temperature switch is at the left front of the intake manifold and the knock sensor is at the rear of the left cylinder head. There should be a Green wire attached to each sensor

You'll probably have to enlarge the picture some   



That still leaves the possibility that the ProTec system is on it's last legs though.

Something else to consider is that it looks like you've gone through the fuel system with the exception of the fuel pump and the fuel line from the tank to the pump.

If you've ruled out limp mode and think it's gas related, maybe it's time for a fuel pump replacement or rebuild and make sure your suction hose isn't restricted in any way.

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote DougsdevilCC Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: June-28-2020 at 10:11am
Putting things together now, gas gauge shows 1/2 tank. When we pulled the pick up tube out not only was it clean but pretty dry. Filled the ole girl up and it ran good. We will see what happens over the next few days.
Feel a little embarrassed if that is all it was...
How can you tell if the gauge or sending unit for the gas is bad?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (1) Thanks(1)   Quote Jonny Quest Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: June-28-2020 at 12:12pm
On these older boats, you may want to consider changing out both the sending unit and the fuel gauge. On my 1994, I pulled the fuel tank and replced both the sending unit in the tank and the fuel gauge at the dash. For me it was peace-of-mind. If you do change out the fuel sending unit, I recommend the "reed" style vs. the arm-and-float type. You simply measure the height of the fuel tank where the sender is mounted and subtract 1" to get the sender length.

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