Still Happy with your Protec Conversion?

Several members have removed the ProTec system and have installed the DUI high-energy-ignition (HEI) distributor by www.PerformanceDistributors.com. You don't really need all that stuff in the "kit". The link below is a nice write-up by JPASS on his DUI install and ProTec removal.

LINK

JQ

When swapping to the DUI setup, I wouldn't worry about the number in the manual for the Protec system.

Most everybody that does the DUI swap sets the timing at 10 degrees BTDC and the DUI people will tell you that your distributor will have 24 degrees of advance at 3000 rpm.

That 24 added to the 10 degrees initial will give you 34 total at 3000 rpm and the engine will run good.

I don't remember anybody complaining about the DUI curve or the advance of 24 degrees that it comes with.

If you're worried you could set the initial at 6 or 8 degrees instead of 10 degrees and have 30 or 32 degrees total as a starting point.

Jonny Quest wrote: +1 to what KENO said. The DUI advance curve is very nice. Your engine will like it. My initial idle advance was 8 degrees BTDC originally...but then I changed to 10 degrees BTDC. Engine performance was outstanding. The DUI was every bit as good (if not better) as the ProTec system -- at least in my experience. And...correct, that you need the 7,000 RPM version. Be sure to get the red model as you will gain several MPH in top speed as red is always faster... JQ

ALWAYS   

KENO wrote: When swapping to the DUI setup, I wouldn't worry about the number in the manual for the Protec system. Most everybody that does the DUI swap sets the timing at 10 degrees BTDC and the DUI people will tell you that your distributor will have 24 degrees of advance at 3000 rpm. That 24 added to the 10 degrees initial will give you 34 total at 3000 rpm and the engine will run good. I don't remember anybody complaining about the DUI curve or the advance of 24 degrees that it comes with. If you're worried you could set the initial at 6 or 8 degrees instead of 10 degrees and have 30 or 32 degrees total as a starting point.

I have never actually measured a DUI to have a full 24deg even when that’s what it specifies on the card. Usually closer to 20. In those cases, 12-14 initial on the Fords seems very happy. I definitely wouldn’t be setting it any lower than 10, in any case.

I think you may be questioning my ability to use measurement equipment properly but I assure you I am competent... 4deg is not what I would consider margin of error. This is not based on a single reading or single distributor, but many. Haven’t bought or measured a DUI that actually had the full 24- and that’s ok by me.

TRBenj wrote: I assure you I am competent....

That's your opinion.

Definition:
"a view or judgment formed about something, not necessarily based on fact or knowledge."

Shoulda known the opinionated one (Pete) would jump in with something profound.

I've checked timing in the boat plenty of times, but it sure is easier to check a distributor setup on a machine

+2. The two DUIs of mine are also around 20° of total advanace, not 24

Ken,
I feel one of your hands on tests would be in order.

Funny thing I seen this post today, I did the DUI swap om my 92 EXCEL last year and have lost two ignition modules. Lost both of within 20 hours run time . Backed my boat off trailer Sat and it died right on the ramp no spark. So I call them today and their TEC guy t told me that with our boats we must run a Neg wire from our battery to the distributor housing. I have read all the links posted and have not seen anyone doing this . I will do this to my boat this weekend I hope it works getting tired of buying these DUI modules. I will never take my boat out without a extra module again.   

Gary S wrote: Years ago my dad got stuck multiple times in his Prestolite point equipped boat. Condensers were always burning up. Being a center console inboard it was tough to work on the engine, Finally in disgust he pulled the distributor. Due to saltwater use the distributor had corroded where it contacted the block. He cleaned that and added a ground wire. I have since added grounds to my two as well.

much insightful.

My 93 has had the protec replaced since before I got it.

I have the mechanical distributor... not even sure what brand. It has given me no problems. Runs a little rough before it's warm but takes like 3 minutes to warm up then runs perfectly.

1400+ hours on the motor so I'm guessing the pro tec was replaced years ago.

I may go DUI at some point if the coil/ points give me trouble but right now it doesn't worry me a bit.

1TAZZ wrote: Funny thing I seen this post today, I did the DUI swap om my 92 EXCEL last year and have lost two ignition modules. Lost both of within 20 hours run time . Backed my boat off trailer Sat and it died right on the ramp no spark. So I call them today and their TEC guy t told me that with our boats we must run a Neg wire from our battery to the distributor housing. I have read all the links posted and have not seen anyone doing this . I will do this to my boat this weekend I hope it works getting tired of buying these DUI modules. I will never take my boat out without a extra module again.

If you're dead set on running a ground wire to the battery, you should probably read the thread in the link and the link that's in that thread about "ground loops".

I'd ground it to the block and not directly to the battery, but then again if your ground from the body to the block by way of the holddown bolt is clean you don't need a wire.

You'd think all these manufacturers would have put a ground wire from the distributor to the block if it was really necessary.

If you ground to the battery and have an issue with your big main ground wire then every bit of current wants to go through your new distributor ground back to the battery. So as an example, you turn the key to start the boat and all that starter current wants to go to the battery through the distributor housing and your new kinda tiny little ground wire.

I think I smell smoke   

Grounds are funny things.

link   

RealDeez wrote: My 93 has had the protec replaced since before I got it. I have the mechanical distributor... not even sure what brand. It has given me no problems. Runs a little rough before it's warm but takes like 3 minutes to warm up then runs perfectly. 1400+ hours on the motor so I'm guessing the pro tec was replaced years ago. I may go DUI at some point if the coil/ points give me trouble but right now it doesn't worry me a bit.

Since you don't know what ya' got, maybe a picture would be good and another picture with the cap off too

We had a saying- ground is ground the world around.... I ran my distributor ground to the block.,it cost nothing