Prop Test: Acme #540 vs. '79 Federal

For those of you who wondered how a new prop would improve your boat's performance, take a moment to read my review of the Acme #540 as I compare it to my stock 1979 Federal Propeller.

With the same surface area of a 4-blade and the top-end of a 3-blade, the #540 is the perfect solution for older Correct Crafts and, I can tell you, it had an unbelievable impact on the performance of my '79 Mustang.

Read the complete review.

To be fair the old federal had none and actually near +2 rake. The newer props use at least - 4- 9 degrees of rake, moving the blade back toward the rudder. The newer props pull up the bow allowing more air for lift, of course giving the hull much more hole shot, hull control and in some cases more speed.
I had the privilege of testing the proto OJ 4 blade in 1996 and it made such a impact CC put them on all there boats for quite a few years. They were the first to introduce them on tournment type tow boats.
OJ makes CNC,Cast, SS blades.
In essence any prop manufacture can make a difference in performance, boat manufactures use the prop that work best for their product, generally speaking.

64 Skier,
I was ready to test the 4-blade but Bill Weeks from Acme advised me to try the 3-blade instead. He told me their new 3-blades outperformed their 4-blades in every way. I don't understand the technology that well but from what I understand four blades give you added surface area. Apparently because of new manufacturing technology, the Acme 3-blade I tested (#540) has as much surface area as the comprable 4-blade (#208) with out the added drag.

I would agree with SS 201 that a new prop from any manufacture would make a big difference in performance.

I intended on testing an OJ 4-balde as well but I guess their 13" RH are back ordered for the rest of the season.

-Keith

Do you know what difference would 14x14 make vs 13x13

Thanks

Hi Keith,

I just read your review of the ACME540 prop. Sounds like you're in heaven. If I decided to go with this prop is there an increase in rear wake size ? Basically I only use the boat for Slalom and footing, and would like to keep the wake as flat as possible.

Thanks

Thats very interesting Keith, now how do I make sure I order the right prop for my specific Nautique? Are you aware of any dealers in Canada?

Thanks,

Hudson

Hi Keith,

Thanks for the info. I will have to check for the engine and transmission ratio. Since I am new to the Nautique is there a simple way to check for this info on the boat ?

Thanks

Hudson

Hi Keith,

What prop would you suggest for 1980 Ski Nautique with Ford 351, trans 1:1 and current prop 13x13. I got told that the ACME 542 would make my engine rev to much.

Thanks

HudsonSpeeder,
You should get either:

• Acme 3 BLADE 12.5X15.25 RH #612
• Acme 4 BLADE12.5x15.5x1 RH #422
[

OJ doesn't list a specific prop for your boat but you can call technical support at SKIDIM.com (803-345-0996) and they can help you find the right prop.

-Keith

Keith

I have 76 Ski Tique that used a 12 X 14 when new. Around 88 switched to a 12 X 13 and had good results with acceleration/response. Wondering if this Acme prop would do even better. I have about 3/4" of clearance with the old prop when measuring straight down from the hull and 1" when measuring parallel with the blades. I read your review and your advice about clearance. I guess I was wondering if your clearance to hull was this close with your Mustang?
                             Thanks Tim
            

The TAP with the hammer is to loosen the prop after the puller is tightened. Use a TAP don't wail on it. If the tap doesn't cause the prop to pop off, retighten the puller again and tap it again.To tighten the puller put a 2X4 between the prop and the hullto keep the propshaft from turning. Heres where it gets wierd. In the prop pulling kit there is some graese.If not use the waterproof grease you have for thr trailer bearings.When installing the new prop put a thin layer of grease on the shaft before putting the prop back on. That will make it easier to remove it the next time.

Zigzag wrote: Keith I have 76 Ski Tique that used a 12 X 14 when new. Around 88 switched to a 12 X 13 and had good results with acceleration/response. Wondering if this Acme prop would do even better. I have about 3/4" of clearance with the old prop when measuring straight down from the hull and 1" when measuring parallel with the blades. I read your review and your advice about clearance. I guess I was wondering if your clearance to hull was this close with your Mustang?                              Thanks Tim

Tim,
I can tell you that my clearance with the #540 (13" x 12) is about what you have with your 12" x 13. The rake of the #540 is around 12 so it fits more like a 12" than a 13".

I hope this helps.

-Keith

'78 Ski Tique,
I'm no prop expert but from what I understand the Acme #540 is the recommend prop for all 1:1 transmissions (which your boat does have). Even though there are differences between your engine and the PCM 302/351, the #540 would still be the recommended prop.

To be sure, you can ask Tech. Support at Discount Inboard Marine(803-345-0996)when you place your order or contact Acme direct(888-661-ACME).

Please remember to enter CCFAN in the promocode or mention it when ordering over the phone to get your 10% off discount from Discount Inboard Marine (http://www.SKIDIM.com/).

Barr-acuda,

Thats the word I have been looking for, TURBULENT! Yes I must agree the water IS less turbulent, great for Slalom and footing!!
ACME props RULE!!

Don't use a block of wood to stop the prop from turning, it will mashed the puller into the prop and distorts the leading edge.

Put another crescent wrench on the puller's 'C' portion. This lets the prop float, all the torsion is within the puller. Apply moderate torque.

'Warm' the hub with propane, and then go in the house and have a beer, then you will hear a clang when the hub finally expands and releses, and retrieve the prop.

Lapping the new prop to the shaft makes removel easier next time, and eliminates odd vibrations. Deburr the keyway before lapping, else you groove the bore.