How my dad winterized, is this right?

How do I winterize the transmission? I saw two cooling lines, that run into a small pipe thing inline with the cooling system. But those lines contain transmission fluid. Is it correct to say that the transmission is cooled through the fluid, and does not any internal jackets like the engine.

One more question, I looked up instructions on the internet on how to winterize the boat. Well anyways my dad looked at them and decided to modify them a little bit. We drained the two bolts on the block and then used an airhose at the front on the engine to blow them out. We completely took off the raw water pump and put it in our basement. We couldnt get the drains out of the exhaust manifolds, so he poured a mix of 50/50 antifreeze/water directly into each manifold until it was full.

Next we took off the drain plug out of the waterpump and poured antifreeze in there, and we confirmed the antifreeze was coming out of the sides of the block, so we put the block plugs in and filled up the engine block with a 2 gallons are more of the antifreeze mix. Then we blew through most of the hoses and filled most with the antifreeze mix.

Before we did all this, we fogged the engine, by spraying through the carb, then I manually went through each spark plug and turn over the engine a couple times. I took out the battery and put in the basement.

What do you think, my dad kinda is one of those guys that has his own way of doing things and this is our first inboard. 82 ski nautique.

I just dont want a crack blocked out of the deal. We live in Kansas, so fairly mild winters. We will get a below freezing, but usually dont dip into the negatives or teens too much.

thanks

Some would just dump rv antifreeze in the water intake and run the engine until the rv antifreeze is coming out the exhaust. This will take about 4 or 5 gallons but in a mild climate is probably fine.

I've winterized my own engines for the past 12 years but don't have a CC (yet...)

Just an FYI, the way a marine engine cooling system works is that water in the engine is circulated within the block until the engine comes up to operating temp (140-160, depending on the thermostat). Until the thermostat opens at operating temp, the water pulled in from the seawater pump just runs through coolers (power steering and/or transmission) and up through the exhaust to cool the exhaust manifolds and tailpipes or hoses. I mention this because if you just drain the engine, exhaust, and seawater pump hoses, and then run antifreeze in through the water intake until it comes out of the exhaust, it won't get into the engine itself unless you do it long enough for the engine to warm up. You're basically just winterizing your exhaust manifolds.

For those that did this, open your block drains again and see if antifreeze comes out. If it doesn't, remove the thermostat housing and pour antifreeze to fill the block and you should be fine. If you don't, there shouldn't be any water in there to freeze, but adding antifreeze is good for corrosion protection and will make you worry less over the winter.

Awhite70 I hope that you premixed the antifreeze or bought 50/50 premixed. Straight antifreeze will freeze just like water.

I used RV antifreeze, you're supposed to use it straight.

I first take the thermostat out and put the housing back on( I used to run until the thermostat opens but it takes too long and it doesn't stay open long anyway). Then I put two gallons of antifreeze in a five gallon bucket and place it next to the raw water pump. I put two large five gallon buckets (those plastic ones you can get with the rope handles) and place them behind each exhaust. I take the inlet hose off the raw water pump and slide four foot spare piece on the pump. Then with an assistant at the exhaust, I crank the boat with the four foot hose in the two gallons of antifreeze and my assistant makes sure the what comes out the exhaust goes in the buckets. When the two gallons are gone, switch off the boat and transfer what came out to the five gallon bucket and repeat until I have warm antifreeze coming out. I don't dillute the antifreeze because it mixes with water that's already in the block. And for the transmission cooler, I pour a small amount of antifreeze down the hose where I disconnected it from the raw pump and then cup my hand over the end of the hose and blow into it until you hear it come out the intake screen on the bottom of the boat. I fill the gas tank, add some stabilizer and put some duct tape on the air vent for the gas tank(had wasps one time). I don't fog the engine, I crank it about every two months (if it fires up only let it one a few seconds) with the raw pump disconnected and it keeps the carb from completly drying out and the engine from sticking. I've done this for 16 years with no problems.

I read rocco's post and it said to spray wd40 into the sparkplug holes. I would NEVER do this. I sprayed a nice shotgun down when I was smaller, after I was done using it. about a month later I looked at it and it had rust pits all over it. Spend the money and use fogging oil, or I think marvelous mystery oil will work. My two cents.