Where to get Reman’d 351W?

remember, the cheaper the price the cheaper the parts they use,interview them, labor is a fixed cost on a rebuild, its the difference in good quality parts against poor quaility parts that make the price difference, do you have a local engine builder that builds all the race engines for your buddies in your area? he is usually the guy to use, he is close, has the experience and if he sucked at it you would of heard

thats a righty too???

Waterdog,

An early 70's p/u truck 351W is what the boat has had in it since 1985. I bought the boat in '87 & was told other than installing brass freeze plugs, nothing else was marinized about the block itself. It has amazed me that it's lasted 23 years since then with only one issue.

14 years ago I had a water leak in the top of one of the heads. Water corroded right through the top wall of the head, so I drilled & tapped a put a plug in it and was fine ever since. When I had the most recent issue, I figured it was time to give up the ghost and get a new engine rather than push my luck further.

The only total engine tear down and rebuild I've ever attempted was my '69 Bug 28 years ago. Turned a 1500 into a 1660(I think) firebreathing, vette-eating menace. (well, at least the firebreathing part was true, ha!)

I decided 14 years ago when I had the Head corrode through, that if I ever have another water related problem with the current engine that I'd scrap it and get a new one. This for fearing the rest of the engine could have the same corroded thin walls and didn't want to sink any $$$ into it. I think I've definitely gotten my $$$ out this engine.

WD, i meant his is a righty?, he needs reverse rotation? i didnt know

Has anyone on the site used a Jasper reman? Have heard both good and bad. I used a reman 8V-71 Det. Diesel and it was fine - known others which were not.

jfarc wrote: Not sure where he's going with that, I don't need a reverse rotation. Like me, my engine doesn't go both ways. Not that there's anything wrong with, mind you... ;-)

wheather or not you go both ways means nothing. But the motor in your boat is a reverse rotation engine from the factory. So if you want to get any old motor that's fine, but it better come with everythign because, your starter, distributor, prop and tranny will not match up with a standard rotation motor.

I had a Jasper class II motor that I had no isuues with, just make sure it has the right oil pan and timing cover, swap then if you need to.

I'll tell ya, this has always been confusing. I did mis-state in an above post that I had a righthand standard rotation engine. This obviously contradicts each other since a 'standard' rotation engine turns counter-clock wise when viewed from the rear of the engine, which is also called 'lefthand' rotation. I've always known my boat to be 'standard rotation', I just incorrectly tied that to 'righthand rotation'.

Yes, a truck 351W left hand standard rotation engine was installed in the boat in 1985 and is still in it. I'm not sure what the boat had in it originally.

Here are some links to help (at least help me) understand the rotation thing.

http://www.boatpartsinfo.com/engine-rotation.html

http://www.propowermarine.com/faq-rotate.htm

Although, as stated in the links, you can't just look at the prop rotation to determine engine rotation, since the trans may reverse it to make the boat move forward.

Thanks to all for setting me straight on this. I corrected my errors in above posts as not to confuse.

TRBenj, it sometimes takes a little bit, but I usually do come around.

Yes, I've always disliked how the boat keels to starboard when I'm the only one in it. But, I did just put a new BW 1:1 lefthand rotat trans in it a few years back, so I guess I'll have to make sure I carry a couple bikini-clad ladies with me to offset the torque.

If you decide to go back to right hand, I could make you a good deal for a used right hand starter, distributor, prop, whatever else is different but I don’t remember anything else right now. These guys are right about the transmission it does go either way, but it cant reverse the direction of an engine. Forward always turns the same direction the engine turns, reverse can’t be used to make the boat go forward because it is not strong enough for the full power of the engine. The pump needs to be rotated for the transmission to work at all in the new direction but it’s a 10 minute job fairly painless. I have gone from the correct way RH prop, reverse rotation direction to the “incorrect way” so I could use a standard ground stroker kit, and hydraulic roller cam so I am familiar with the operation, and have a workshop full of the old parts. I am going the long way around by now using a later model pcm transmission to get my prop back the “correctway” but that involves a new transmission, mounts, propshaft, and prop. If you were up and running I would say its not worth it to move to RH just to get rid of the lean, however since IIRC its only about two hundred dollars from rapido to RH instead of LH and for about 225 including shipping I could get you the parts you need to go back I would say go back, if you ever sold it being incorrect would be a serious deduct in price for most people.

Waterdog wrote: JoeinNY Does the crank have to be ground for R/Rotation with a one peice rear main seal? The pistons don't have to reversed on the rods (351w)? Any other short block prep to go from std. to R/R ?

Crank ground for reverse, absolutley.

Depends on what pistons your putting in it. Have your machinist check the pistons for offset and he'll assemble the rods accordingly.

Allen , if you use the one piece rear main seal no machine work is required. The knurling are used only on the two piece seal.
Read my post above as to what I did on mine.
Also there is no pison pin offset on the Windor engines, 302 or 351.

Chris, you have made this statement before,then as now I will disagree.....
165 hrs. later I have not had any issue with the rear seal or any bearing faiures.But maybe I am setting on a time bomb, what do I know.
I researched the L/Hand into R/hand rotation and was told the issue was a non issue.
But maybe it is because I baby this stroker and do not run the DOG SH#T out of her.During the early days of trying to prop her out Correctly she saw 6000+ several times.
Now a day on the lake ends with several blasts at 5200+ till Karen says back her down.She will pull a 12/15 in excess of that rpm for as long as I want to feed that BITCH.
No leaks , no noise nor loss of oil pressure and no doubt that I will not change anything if and when I build another.....Boat dr

As you guys know I've been chasing this water in the oil thing in my 86 2001 since last summer. I found a 90 351w truck eng. that's never been apart. I'm going to use that block , GT 40p heads and a cam research cam. Scott at cam research quoted me a complete gasket kit W/one piece r/seal for around $150-
Now I have 2 of everything to build one engine
I WAS going to measure the cranks and use the best one? Any more pit falls? The machine shop is a good one is it possible to turn the crank in reverse to grind and polish it ?     

Waterdog wrote: JoeinNY Does the crank have to be ground for R/Rotation with a one peice rear main seal? The pistons don't have to reversed on the rods (351w)? Any other short block prep to go from std. to R/R ?

DOC,

I didn't fully read the question, I was refering to the bearing surfaces being ground in reverse and the answer to that unasked question is yes. If you didn't do that with yours you may experience premature bearing failure.

As for piston offset I'm afraid you're wrong, the pistons that came out of my 351 were not indexed backwards but the forged Speed Pros that went in were offset so they needed to be indexed backwards. Your statment my be true for stock original parts, I wouldn't know but it is too broad an answer for the endless possibilities when putting these engines back together.