ProTec Ignition replacement question |
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halfnelly ![]() Senior Member ![]() ![]() Joined: January-14-2013 Location: Maitland, FL Status: Offline Points: 253 |
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Nice work!
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Bri892001 ![]() Grand Poobah ![]() ![]() Joined: September-27-2008 Location: Boston MA Status: Offline Points: 4947 |
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Looks great. It's funny that your wife is poking around under the doghouse. I thought the doghouse was the one place where a man is safe from interior design suggestions, LOL.
I wouldn't lose sleep over the spark arrester hose touching a wire. |
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JPASS ![]() Grand Poobah ![]() ![]() Joined: June-17-2013 Location: Orlando Status: Offline Points: 2283 |
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A couple more pics. The spark arrestor hose barely makes contact with one of the wires. Not sure if I will swap it out or what. Going to get another set of wire organizers to tidy everything up a bit nicer.
Wifey misses the plastic cover, so I am going to modify it to fit over the dizzy. I have clearance on the top, just need to notch the front to clear the wires. ![]() ![]() ![]() |
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'92 Correctcraft Ski Nautique
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JPASS ![]() Grand Poobah ![]() ![]() Joined: June-17-2013 Location: Orlando Status: Offline Points: 2283 |
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No water test yet. It started to rain as we finished up. I'll definitely be taking it out next Saturday for a full day of running it. Once timed properly she fired right up. Going from 3000 rpm straight to closed throttle resulted in no rpm dips or stumbles like she used to. She ran nice and smooth. Gonna fire her up today again and double check everything. In my pic it appears my idle might be at 14 degrees. I need to double check that. I also want to take some more pics of how I ran the plug wires and to clean up a few things while I'm in there. |
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'92 Correctcraft Ski Nautique
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AAM196 ![]() Gold Member ![]() ![]() Joined: October-23-2012 Location: Pittsburgh, PA Status: Offline Points: 846 |
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nice upgrade!
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KRoundy ![]() Platinum Member ![]() ![]() Joined: August-23-2010 Location: Lake Stevens Status: Offline Points: 1702 |
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Sweet! Looking forward to seeing the write up. Congrats on completing the job. Have you done an on-the-water test yet?
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Previous: 1993 Electric Blue/Charcoal Ski Nautique
Current: 2016 Ski Nautique 200 Open Bow |
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Bri892001 ![]() Grand Poobah ![]() ![]() Joined: September-27-2008 Location: Boston MA Status: Offline Points: 4947 |
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Congrats on getting it up and running. Looks great
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JPASS ![]() Grand Poobah ![]() ![]() Joined: June-17-2013 Location: Orlando Status: Offline Points: 2283 |
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Got the swap done today. Beat the serious rain by about 2 minutes. She was a little tough to start, but once we set the idle timing at 12 she purred like a kitten. I did notice my plugs were very white. I need to adjust the carb to fatten it up. Its a 4010. Not sure which way to turn the mixture screws on the side (in or out).
Still need to clean up a few things (the coil insulation on the bell housing and some wire separators). I think it came out great. Looks like I have enough room to put the plastic cover back on, but not sure I well. I ruined the supplied tach and 12V terminal ends, so I used weatherproof ones. Oh well. I will do the write up shortly. Here are some pics: ![]() ![]() ![]() |
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'92 Correctcraft Ski Nautique
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JPASS ![]() Grand Poobah ![]() ![]() Joined: June-17-2013 Location: Orlando Status: Offline Points: 2283 |
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Yeah. It was only $10 and I figured it wouldn't hurt to add one to my toolbox. Called the manufacturer today and they said I can install the dizzy dry, but if I was concerned, a little cam lube on the gear would certainly not hurt. |
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'92 Correctcraft Ski Nautique
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Dreaming ![]() Platinum Member ![]() ![]() Joined: May-21-2010 Location: Tacoma, WA Status: Offline Points: 1870 |
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It's an inline spark tester. You can use the spark plug instead if you prefer, but the tester helps lessen the risk of getting shocked ![]() JP - Definitely watching your progress - I'll probably be doing this in the future too |
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KRoundy ![]() Platinum Member ![]() ![]() Joined: August-23-2010 Location: Lake Stevens Status: Offline Points: 1702 |
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In your first photo there, what is that small device packed on the red and white cardboard?
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Previous: 1993 Electric Blue/Charcoal Ski Nautique
Current: 2016 Ski Nautique 200 Open Bow |
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JPASS ![]() Grand Poobah ![]() ![]() Joined: June-17-2013 Location: Orlando Status: Offline Points: 2283 |
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Do I need to put assembly lube or motor oil on the dizzy cam gear or does it go in dry? Directions don't mention anything about it needed lube.
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'92 Correctcraft Ski Nautique
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JPASS ![]() Grand Poobah ![]() ![]() Joined: June-17-2013 Location: Orlando Status: Offline Points: 2283 |
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I have regular waterproof spade connectors at the house. The only thing I would lose would be the brown clips that the terminal end goes into. I would just run each spade to the each post on the coil. It's always an option if the supplied connectors cause me issues.
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'92 Correctcraft Ski Nautique
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JoeinNY ![]() Grand Poobah ![]() ![]() Joined: October-19-2005 Location: United States Status: Offline Points: 5697 |
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The crimp is definitely designed so that the pair of tangs closest to the blade crimp down on the stripped wire, preferably after being tinned, and that the second set crimp down upon the insulation providing a strain relief for the first set. Its actually a pretty tough connector to do a good job crimping with anything other than a connector specific tool set but every ignition company still seems to send them out.
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backfoot100 ![]() Platinum Member ![]() Joined: January-03-2007 Location: United States Status: Offline Points: 1897 |
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I disagree guys. Those are the only tangs for making contact with the bare wire. You crimp them on the insulation and the only contact you'll have is a few ragged strands of the wire on the spade lug itself. A marginal connection at best. You might be able to solder it after crimping in that fashion (if you know what you're doing) but then you'll heat up the insulation making the crimp marginal at best then. I would just crimp on the bare wire myself. |
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When people run down to the lake to see what's making that noise, you've succeeded.
Eddie |
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JPASS ![]() Grand Poobah ![]() ![]() Joined: June-17-2013 Location: Orlando Status: Offline Points: 2283 |
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I think we have some terminal ends here at work I can practice on. And yes, I am familiar with Skycraft. Love that place. I could also solder the wire to the terminals for some added strength. |
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'92 Correctcraft Ski Nautique
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Bri892001 ![]() Grand Poobah ![]() ![]() Joined: September-27-2008 Location: Boston MA Status: Offline Points: 4947 |
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Good point and sharp eye Chris. I didn't notice the wider set of arms. |
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Orlando76 ![]() Grand Poobah ![]() ![]() Joined: May-21-2013 Location: Mount Dora, FL Status: Offline Points: 3108 |
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Yeah try the black dies. Changing the terminals out is not an option? Are you familiar with Skycraft on Fairbanks? This is about the point I'd go there. I never fully understood those terminals but from my experience I think they're a poor design |
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JPASS ![]() Grand Poobah ![]() ![]() Joined: June-17-2013 Location: Orlando Status: Offline Points: 2283 |
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There's a gap below the spade head. I could always flatten the stripped wire and shove it under the spade head and wrap the prongs around the insulated part of the wire.
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'92 Correctcraft Ski Nautique
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SNobsessed ![]() Grand Poobah ![]() Joined: October-21-2007 Location: IA Status: Offline Points: 7102 |
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I would strip the wire to less length & have those end tangs crimp down on insulation. I think that is why they are wider.
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“Beer is proof that God loves us and wants us to be happy.”
Ben Franklin |
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JPASS ![]() Grand Poobah ![]() ![]() Joined: June-17-2013 Location: Orlando Status: Offline Points: 2283 |
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I have plenty of heat shrink tubing. Do I use the black die in the pic or the one with the colored dots? My guess would be the black die as the die seems to be more rounded and would close those posts tighter around the wire. |
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'92 Correctcraft Ski Nautique
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Bri892001 ![]() Grand Poobah ![]() ![]() Joined: September-27-2008 Location: Boston MA Status: Offline Points: 4947 |
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I believe you want to "strip the wire like my previous pic." If you put them over the insulation, it's unlikely it would pierce through with enough bite to get you a good contact.
If you happen to have heat shrink tubing laying around, it wouldn't hurt to put that over the terminal end. Actually, they have a type of insulation that can actually be painted on after as well. |
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JPASS ![]() Grand Poobah ![]() ![]() Joined: June-17-2013 Location: Orlando Status: Offline Points: 2283 |
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Those are the ends that came with the dizzy. There is another piece they go into that clamps them to the dizzy cap. I believe my spark plug wire crimper tool has the dies for this type of terminal end. If these are the correct dies, do I strip the wire like my previous pic or do I place the supplied terminal ends unstripped and allow the crimpers to roll then ends over piercing the wire inside? ![]() ![]() ![]() |
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'92 Correctcraft Ski Nautique
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Bri892001 ![]() Grand Poobah ![]() ![]() Joined: September-27-2008 Location: Boston MA Status: Offline Points: 4947 |
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The black crimpers you have are good for the tube style terminal ends.
The terminal "ends with arms" I think go with a crimper that has a special die that will roll the arms in automatically as it's squeezed. But, those aren't the terminal ends you're actually using? |
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JPASS ![]() Grand Poobah ![]() ![]() Joined: June-17-2013 Location: Orlando Status: Offline Points: 2283 |
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Is this mock-up the best way to crimp the tach and power wires to the provided terminal ends? Just going to use the black crimpers on right to roll the prongs over onto the wire. Correct? I'm used to the tube style terminal ends not these with "arms".
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'92 Correctcraft Ski Nautique
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TRBenj ![]() Grand Poobah ![]() ![]() Joined: June-29-2005 Location: NWCT Status: Offline Points: 21141 |
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Timing on our mech advance dizzys does not depend on load, only rpm... You can do it all on the hose.
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JPASS ![]() Grand Poobah ![]() ![]() Joined: June-17-2013 Location: Orlando Status: Offline Points: 2283 |
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I had her on the hose quite a bit lately and the prop never spins when she's in neutral.
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'92 Correctcraft Ski Nautique
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Bri892001 ![]() Grand Poobah ![]() ![]() Joined: September-27-2008 Location: Boston MA Status: Offline Points: 4947 |
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You can check it in the driveway. At least the idle speed initial for sure.
If you're were revving it up, you'd want to make sure your tranny doesn't have a dirty neutral, because you don't want your driveshaft to be spinning on a dry strut bearing. |
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JPASS ![]() Grand Poobah ![]() ![]() Joined: June-17-2013 Location: Orlando Status: Offline Points: 2283 |
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That makes sense. Is it OK to check the timing on the hose in the driveway or do I need to have the engine under load on the water?
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'92 Correctcraft Ski Nautique
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Bri892001 ![]() Grand Poobah ![]() ![]() Joined: September-27-2008 Location: Boston MA Status: Offline Points: 4947 |
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Ok, cool. Good that you have images of the manual in front of you. On the timing... that's a good question actually. My first inclination is that you should have 24 degrees of advance for something like 35-36 degrees total timing. (Just saw Lewy's post; we're on the same page.) But then, I've heard it said that the GT heads don't require as much advance. I remember Skidim at one point, listing on clearance a dizzy that was specifically curved for GT-40 heads. But I don't know how much less is the norm, like how much total advance a GT-40 head equipped engine should be seeing. |
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