Sanding in My Future

Well, I guess I will have to see what happens when I start sanding. I hope I don't run into a situation where it has to be re coated.

The decals were not made from a tracing. I found a thread on here in the "Common Questions" forum about decals. The post on there had pictures of the decals that were made for another Sport Nautique and they looked great! I called the people up and asked them to make me a set. I sent them pictures of all the decals I needed (even though they are the same ones they had already made). Then they asked me a strange question, I thought. They asked what the dimensions of mine were. I had assumed that the same boats would have the same size graphics. Either way, I measured and sent them dimensions. When they came in, they are slightly different. It kind of sucks because if they were exact, I would just get it looking as good as I could with a light sanding and throw the decals back on and it would look fine. Oh well, like I said before, I just have to work with what I have.

Pete-
Are you saying that I may not be able to get the shadows out? Based on the pictures posted, do you think I am at risk of that?

Even if I am wasting my time, Chris, I can not leave it how it is. I have to work with what I have.

How thick is the gel on these boats?

if your not using a DA your waisting your time regardless of what grit you start which I wouldn't go below 800 to start with, but if you like scratchs not your self out.

Adam,
Good luck with the shadow. Some have had success others have not. It depends a lot on how deep it goes.

As far as a block for sanding, I always use a hard block such as a piece of wood for flat to close to flat surfaces. This really is the only way to level it out.   

azeus17 wrote: My pad may be part of the problem too. It is a twisted wool pad, but it does not seem to get much cut, and gums up pretty quick.

Get a decent bonnet/pad like a 3M 2+2 plus a bonnet cleaning tool. Both will improve the buffing experience!!

I am using a high speed buffer. It is not a great model, but it works. It does not tell you what RPM it is running. It only has a roller wheel with MIN, I, II, III, IV, and stated speed between 700 and 3000 RPM's so I an guestimating the setting based on that. With the SD I have been setting around III. My pad may be part of the problem too. It is a twisted wool pad, but it does not seem to get much cut, and gums up pretty quick. Should I be able to see any cut/swirl marks when using the wool pad and the SD? Currently I can't, it buffs to a shine.

I certainly can't say that light blue is any different from any other color, but this hull of Marshall Morgan's Mustang wasn't about to come back w/o the wetsanding. And like Bremsen asked, if you're not already Azeus, you need to use a high speed buffer/polisher for the 3M and not an orbital or light duty buffer. And for the wet sanding, always go wet. It actually cuts better and the paper will last 10 times longer w/o ever clogging up.       

It looks like you have your decals taped off. That is my problem, they were all really bad as you can see. The new decals I had to get reproduced and although they are very good, they are not the exact dimensions and spacing. You would still see the shadows behind them.

Otherwise, yes I am impressed with the Super Duty as well. I used it in other areas and have been happy with the results.

BKH/TRBenj-
Thanks for the advice. Now, if I had more self control, I would start sanding instead of heading out, but when it is 83 and sunny, it is hard!

azeus17 wrote: Definitely do post results! Do you know how much that set him back? TRBenj- You do not wet sand all the way down to 320, do you? At what point do you dry sand and wet sand? I guess the packaging would say. Also, I remember your post about you wet sanding. Did you go down to 320 on your deck and hull? I didn't really think my deck was that bad until I saw how white yours is!

Yes, wetsand all the way. I believe it keeps the scratches more consistent than doing it dry. I did have to sand all the way down to 320 on my deck- I didnt do much with the hull (yet) as it doesnt really need it. I removed some old warning stickers that revealed white gel underneath- similar to what you found when you removed your decals.

About $ 300.00. He does enough car, bike, hydroplane, work to justify it.

My brother in law just got one of these, I'm going to give it a try, I'll post results.

waterbug sander


Gary

I have finally started to clean up the outside of the boat. i ordered new decals and they just came in. The old decals came off pretty easy with the heat gun. Saying it is faded is an understatement!

Check out the before and after.

With Decals:



Without:



After first round with 3M Super Duty Compound:
(This is the other side, but same amount of fading)



On the second to last pic, I had buffed out to the end of Sport.

I guess I am going to have to wet sand. I hope I do not have to go down to too rough of a grit, but we will see. You guys have any guesses how low of a grit I will need? Should I go strait to the 300 and work my way back up?

Man I was hoping to not have to do this!