What I Did This Winter...’76 Southwind

Davidg - I have a '76 Southwind 20 that I would like to repaint the striping. I would like to ask you a few questions if you have time and I couldn't find any contact info for you. Could you email me with your phone sometime? Or at least email me the steps and process including type of paint you went through.
kstateson@identitybusiness.com
Thanks - Kirk
mobile 817-914-2920

Kevin;

Sounds like you have a big job ahead of you. Even though I haven't done my floor or stringers, I will try to give some advice I have picked up on this forum. I would also ask anybody else that has more experience than me to give their advice too.

On your stringers.....The first bit of advice I would give is to not cut both stringers out at the same time. I have read on this site that people that do cut both out at the same time have had their boat distort because both "backbones" were gone and the fiberglass could not support itself.

I would go ahead and cut them out (one after you have fixed the other) using some sort of saw that can cut the glass interface at the hull surface that won't harm the hull glass, and pull the whole thing out. You then may have to grind down the remainder of any material left on the hull floor to get it completely smooth. Try to salvage the stringers to at least use as a template for the new ones.

I would certainly not try to salvage part of the stringer. Those are the main structural support for the boat, and having one pieced together may not give you the best result. I would go with a whole new stringer (Douglas Fir I think I read was a good wood to use), and encapsulate it with new fiberglass. Do it once, and do it right while you have the floor opened up.

Also, do searches on this site. Many others have been through what you are going through now. I know you will pick up some great advice on the best way to proceed.

On your foam.....as I mentioned, I have never done the foam, although I did get glimpses of mine when working around the sides of the engine bay area. You have got the right idea to dig it all out, and replace it. It is there for a reason. It may keep your boat bouyant enough for help to arrive should something ever happen, and make retrieving it much easier. I would be curious what you find, and how wet it is. As mentioned, I know I have some water in my foam, I am just not sure how bad it is. Its probably worse than I think, but, the boat seems to be okay in the water (sits level, and has good speed). So, I may hold off for a year or two before I tackle it. Also, I did not realize the foam was so expensive. Do some searches on this site, or pose the question in a new thread asking about the best foam to use, and the best places to get it. You might find a better foam, at a lower price.

Where do you live in Indy? Next time down, I may give you a call and come over and check your boat and progress out. Hopefully by that point, you will be the old pro at stringers, glass, and foam and can give me some advice. My mom lives in Fishers up by Conner Prairie, so I am close to the north side, and thats where I spend my time when I do come down.

Good luck!

Dave

Kevin;

Make sure you take lots of pictures as you proceed. It will help me (and many others) understand what is underneath the floor and how best to deal with it. I know I have some wet foam, but its just a matter of how bad it is and balancing out whether it really needs replaced short term vs. just getting out and enjoying the boat the way it is. So far, it seems it is not a big problem. The boat sits level in the water and top speed is around 40 mph....both indicators of excessive water in the foam.

However, the one thing I have noticed when the boat is sitting in the water is that it does seem to sit bow low/rear high when nobody is in the boat. Not sure if thats just the nature of the beast or if that is the wet foam rearing its ugly head.

By the way, one of the many things I replaced on the boat was the ladder steps. The old teak was pretty much shot and looked very shabby. I ultimately found a place in Wisconsin called Badger Hardwoods. They set me up with a very high density (heavy) wood called Neepa (spelling). It is great for outdoor and water applications. The wood for three steps cost around $15 total. It is about 1" think. You will need this kind of thickness for good strength. I had previously found some thinner teak wood I thought would work, and the first time I stepped on it (lowest rung), it shattered. I weigh around 205. I just wanted to make sure it was safe for heavier skiers. If you need me to get you some, I will. I am up in that area all the time.

Also, let me know when you are ready for the measurements on the stripes/letters. I have just been very busy the past few days.

Dave

Kevin;

I haven't gotten into the floor of mine just yet. It bascially took me six months just to do everything else but that. I did saw out one piece of the floor where the pylon is because the wood was rotten underneath it, but, thats as far as I went.

I knew it would be a big job, and I wanted to see how good or bad it ran before I took that one on.

I had it out on Lake Geneva in Wisconsin today. Here is a picture. It runs great and handles the big water on Geneva very well. That flared front hull really keeps you dry, and the deep vee hull rides very smooth....relatively speaking. The only complaint from the back seat is...."IT'S TOO LOUD"!!!!!!

Good luck with the floor, and I will be picking your brain next winter before I tackle mine.

Dave

Kevin,
From your other post:

kevin719 wrote:
The po said that this crap is a hull protector and algae inhubitor.I did see this stuff at a marine store site when I was buying epoxy resin tonight.Thanks

"Kevin, I think you're answering the statement I made in your other thread.

"I'm going to take a guess at the PO's attempt of "restoring" the hull! Since you stated that it is textured, I'm wondering if he put white bed liner on it?? "

What you saw at the store, is anti-fouling bottom paint. It is common for boats that stay in the water for extended times especially in waters that grow algaes on hulls quickly. Bottom paint is not "textured". I'm getting the idea that you're not getting the full story from the PO. I asked you to check the bare areas of the hull (around the bunks) for blistering and gel cracking. Do check.

When you get under the floor, Do try to get some pictures up. I'm still concerned about your stringers even though you drilled the holes."

Pete no unfortunately all traces of the original stripes has been rtemoved! All the decals and even the emblems were gone! I have purchased all of the decals and the emblems!Today I received the last of them! I bought the correct craft 1925 and the flag medallions but I can see the tracing of only 1 madallion,the american flag just after the c.c. emblem.So I might not use the cc ones if they were not stock! Dave yes it it a southwind 18.The top of the boat is a cream color(and it is gellcoat)The bottom(from where the stripes would be and down)looks like it was originally aqua?Have you guys seen this?The previous owner covered the bottom with that white texture stuff that I guess is supposed to be algae resistant.It does not look bad but they painted in on the trailer and just went around the trailer rollers?? Thai is how I know that at least the bottom was aqua! I am not sure what to do with this! Any suggestions guys? I have posted some pics here in diaries

Kevin;

Just my opinion and to echo what Pete is saying.....Use a "machine" when you compound/polish your boat. I don't think there is a polish or chemical that will do it right....without using a good dose of old fashioned elbow grease swinging a 30 Lb. Milwaukee buffer around. Also trust me....you DO NOT want to do this job by hand. You just won't get the results....in my opinion.

I got some very good tips from this site. Get yourself a good clean pad and just start buffing it in until the compound disappears and the hull starts to shine.

It took me awhile, but, I finally got the hang of it to determine what combination of time/amount of compound/correct pressure worked best. Just keep the buffer moving around a specific area until it looks good, and then go to another area and do it.

By the way, what color combination is your Southwind? I take it yours is a Southwind 18??

Dave

Kevin, Don't count on something working on the hull without buffing. I have yet to see a product work. You need to remove the top layer of gel that has oxidized. If real bad, even buffing won't work and it has to be wet sanded. There are some great threads here on doing it. Tim's (TRbeng) comes to mind. I'd hate for you to not get the hull done correctly before you put on new graphics.

How far have you gone into and under the floor? You said that you were going to remove the wet foam. What have you done to check the condition of the stringer system?

Kevin;

I will work on getting you the measurements for the stripes, but, will be on the road the next few days. My gas tank support boards were also wrapped in blue vinyl. Will measure those as well. To take care of the gel coat, I used a heavy compound (Wizards Turbo Cut), then a fine compound (3M Finesse It), and then a polish (Wizards Polish).

I see you you are from Indy. I grew up in the Fishers area (near Conner Prairie), spent many days boating and skiing on both Morse and Geist Resovoirs. Where are you going to run your boat at?

By the way, post some pictures of it. Would love to see it.

Dave

davidg, Looks great! I've got a '75 Southwind 20 that I cleaned up a few years back with new stripes and new interior.

Lookin good Dave,hope to see you out on the river soon if it ever opens-
I'm just about ready to put mine in,but that weather is just not breaking yet. I want to start my trailer project,I found a place in Cary over by the Tennis club on 31 that will blast and prime for $300

That is one nice rig, I always loved those old Southwinds!

What kind of paint did you use?

Rain Dog;

It is the original gel coat (after removing about an 1/2" of oxidation), and repainted over the orginal stripes. As soon as I get the interior done, I will send some pictures of that as well. The interior will be next weekends mission.

Thanks!

Dave

Looks sweet, make sure you get up to Green Lake in July so we can check it out.

Matching rigs are the bomb and so are camper specials. Those stripes look really nice.