overheating....help please

Lewy, I found some nice pictures in a post by Tim. You should have the same set up and I hope this helps. BTW, the screw mentioned is the small drain screw (1/8" pipe) in the side of the body.

RWP direction

That's Good News!!! Which T-stat did you end up using? 143 or 160? Boat looks great! Now you have a picture for your avatar!

just to let you guys know, the boat ran great this weekend. Never overheated and ran like a champ. The new prop made all the difference in the world. The whole shot was better and ran great at all speeds. Never got it wide open but we cruised at 35mph around 3000 RPMs. It ran so smooth with zero vibration. Didn't get to ski as I was trying to teach my wife to pull a skier this weekend. We made a bunch of starts and stops and turns. She did great.

We took my 4 yo little girl on her first camp out at the lake, so we did get some serious tubing in, so I would recommend the acme 540 for all the serious professional tubers!(ha,ha,ha)

winter projects completed: buffed boat out, restripped and stickered most, seat skin changes, new prop, circ pump, RWP, all new hoses. All worth it to see the smile on her face behind the boat. Now we will work on getting her up on skies this year.

thanks for all your help

p.s. Pete i changed the pitot tube on the back of the speedo that was working to the one that was broken.....it filled up very quickly with water after I started moving. Gota find a new one now.

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eric,
you are absolutely right. I don't know if we overlooked it or just wanted to believe that it was something else that would be .......less expensive.   I have learned a whole lot out of this and I guess for a guy that has no history with mechanical things I now know how to troubleshoot overheating issues.

I am still confused on the t-stat as 1/2 the people i have talked to recommend the 160 and 1/2 recommend the 143.

thanks as always for your help eric.

shawn

shawnmc wrote: it consistently ran at 180 and that he took the thermostat out and it ran at 140. He said i needed to get a 140 thermostat instead of 160. I don't know if i agree. What do you think?

The 143 is the correct 'stat for your boat. That will have it running at 160. The 160 will allow it to run closer to 180, which is a bit too warm.

Strange that it ran at 140 with no stat at all. That seems hot.

Shawn, hopefully that new pump will get you on the water! It sounds like you eliminated anything else that could have been drawing air, so my bet is that youre in the clear now. I may be interested in your old pump if you want to part with it- shoot me an email: TRBenj@gmail.com

At least you have 2 boats! I've been driving mine around the garage for weeks?!!? LOL

Shawn, I feel your frustration, but you're in good hands with Pete. The only thing I could add is that you probably won't see a leak with the engine running because it'll be pulling in a tiny air leak...often a small enough leak to not drip with the engine off.

Have you checked the rubber seal in the strainer? They can be replaced for a few dollars.

pete,
still overheated. Have changed out and tried everything except a new RWP. dropped it off at the marina today. they are going to use a laser to make sure what the exact tmperature is and see if we missed anything. My guess is a new RWP is in my future.

I am over frustrated.

Shawn

shawnmc wrote: Any suggestions as to what else????? shawn

Just cross your fingers!!
What did you end up doing to the pump to repair it?

Shawn, With the stripped bolts on the RWP, there is a good possibility that it was sucking air through the case. I'd get it fixed before you condemn the strainer. It may be fine.

Shawn, I can't see anything wrong with your method and people do do it that way. You should still suck out of the bucket and pump through the engine like you mentioned just to check for possible blockage. I still have this feeling that you are sucking air from someplace.

Shawn, Yes, the hose that goes to the fitting through the bottom of the boat. 20 seconds at 2500 RPM for 5 gal. is the rough figure. The "O" ring should do it.

Shawn, Do the bucket test. Take the hose off the through hull to put in the bucket just so the strainer is in line too. One thing about the bucket test that a lot of people miss is to first purge all the air out of the engine before you start counting. If there is a restriction some place, air is easier to push past a restriction than water is. Keep the garden hose running in the bucket for awhile, stop the engine to refill the bucket if needed, then do the test.

Double check to see if the RWP is on upside down. I have done this about 20 times in the past! Finally I wrote "up" and "down". That would be my first recommendation. Next, take teh stat out and put it in a pot on the stove and see when the stat actually opens.

My bet would be the RWP upside down though.

Todd