prestolite electronic ignition conversion

My Prestolite conversion failed.

It took a few weeks to get a replacement because I didnt want to purchase another retrofit kit. Performance Distributors took a few weeks to custom build my DUI.

anthonylizardi wrote: But, but, but... do you about an EI conversion going bad? I thought they were more reliable, better starting, better efficiency... For know my boat runs great, except for running out of gas, but it has a new pump and hopefully that was the problem. I guess I will wait until the points goes bad.

Check the condition of all the parts, and set the dwell and timing!

Ive had ignition module fail on me. I was boatless for a few weeks while I waited on parts.

Pete, the Dow closed below 8 today...better let him spend his money!   LOL

Anthony - Points are really cheap - you can get them at NAPA. No reason to ever let them go totally bad!

Anthony,
The distributor cam is what the wear block on the points rub on opening and closing them. A good set of premium points used to come with a small ampule of lube!
BTW, Just as Tim has stated, reliability improves with a decent tune up and having all the other parts in good condition.   The EI conversion isn't going to do it!! I've bragged about it before - I gave my 312 a tune up when I bought it and haven't touched it since. That was around 1980 !!! Also, the EI's aren't trouble free. If they go you're stuck swimming. If points go, you can take a nail file to them to at least get home! Have you been over on PN again listening to all of the gadget BS again????

Luciano, follow the instructions on both accounts! If the Prestolite kit says to bypass the resistor, then bypass it. I dont know the specs on thier coil, but I suspect you could find an equivalent locally. SkiDIM would know for sure.

Anthony, good stuff- I should follow that maintenance advice. Ive got 2 dizzys that are/were frozen up, so an ounce of prevention should go a long ways.

Thanks Tim,
    As far as the maintenance I guess I found the information in the manual. I wonder how often this needs to be done. Oil the wick (center) with SAE-10W engine oil. Any thoughts?

Anthony, I think youre on the right track. Personally, I would not add a DUI or any other electronic distributor for $300+ if I planned to keep the motor stock.

I have to say that I wouldnt bother with one of the EI retrofit kits either, though. A properly tuned up engine will start every bit as nice with points as EI, in my opinion. That means you need to have all your ignition parts in good condition (plugs, wires, cap, rotor, points, condensor), AND have the dwell and timing set properly. After all that is done, the carb can be dialed in. Both my Skier and Tique have points and they start beautifully- nicer than my '90, in fact.

As far as lubricating the distributor goes, I am not sure what sort of grease would be recommended. The only parts I can think of that would need greasing are the weights/springs.

I was going to start a new thread with my question but I guess I will take advantage of this one. I have an 88 SN. I know how to check timing but I have limited knowledge on this issue. I know my cap is the screw down type. I want to improve the reliability on my boat on this area and get rid of the points. At first I thought about getting a DUI but my engine is stock and per the price I am doubting myself. I plan to leave the engine as it is. Now I am thinking about one of this conversion kit. They seem more affordable with good reliability. So how they works? Just replace the internal with one of these. I know, like my instructor used to said, RTFM (Read the f... manual). Is buying one of these is all I need? The Mallory conversion Dr. recommend said that is for a clip down type. Does it matters or do I need to look for a different model?

Is the Mallory Marine 9-26902 is the one I need? They said is for Marine with the screw down type.

While I am working on that area, do you recommend replacing the cap or cables. They seem to be fine but my boat has been neglected for years.

I finally ended up with the Prestolite unit, should I bypass the resistor as the instructions say or keep it?

I was told to get the prestolite because it used the stock rotor and the others don't.

Mallory part # 9-26903 for the E-Spark

I know this has been debated before but for some reason I still dont have it clear, what is the best EI kit I could get for my Prestolite? I have found 3, Prestolite, Pertronix and Mallory (at Summit)

The prestolite is certainly the most expensive. Wich one to go?

I thought some coils had internal resistors and some did not... hence the need.

But had also heard that it usually wouldn't hurt to run any of them without.



Tom

rhschnauss wrote: It says something about the gap between the magnet and pickup and

Gap should be .008 to .010


Tom