Amp gauge pegged

Got the wiring diagram. Should have it on tomorrow AM. Thanks for the help!

OK - New question. If I replace the ammeter with a volt meter, will the voltage regulator still be needed? What role does it play in the system?

I'd change it to a volt meter. (Just changed my 64 last year)

Differnce is a volt meter monitors the voltage in the system. It only requires a 16 or 18 ga wire connected to a switched 12 volt source.   If the alternater isnt doing it's job the voltage on the gauge will drop below 12 volts. If its doing its job it should show a reading between 12 and 14 volts.(the high depends on the voltage regulator and what accessories are on).

An amp gauge requires a 10ga, and sometimes larger wire and is wired in series to the battery. It may show a charging problem a little bit sooner, but if it ever "pukes", it will literally leave you dead in the water! (Ive had it happen)

WILL YOU BE SELLING YOUR OLD GAUGES?

74SkiNautique wrote: I would reccomend finding another AMP meter rather than a Volt Meter. This way you know If your altinator is doing what it is suppossed to do.

Chris,

There are pros and cons for the use of ether a amp or volt meter and it's still up for debate. You will find some interesting threads on it with links to reference material. I happen to be pro amp but I also know there are some limiting factors. The biggest is you will not find a period correct amp meter being made anymore. Also, the highest amp meter rating you will find is a 40 amp. (not period correct) If you install a large alternator and have high electrical loads, the meter won't handle it. Then with the bigger alternator you need to worry about rather large wire sizing. The bottom line is a volt meter is easy and yes you will be able to read what to charging system is doing.

The repair of the existing Teleflex is still possible but old gauge repair is pricy and finding a working Teleflex amp meter will be tough.

Kirk, Yes, the volt meter is wired differently than the amp. Take at look in the ref. section for the PCM manual and it has a wiring diagram in it that will show you the difference. You can also do a search here as I have posted it a couple times. Sorry I'm not at my computer so I don't have it at hand!

Gotcha. Thanks!

I think I will do a full replacement of all gauges so they match which brings another question to mind. Assuming the gauges fit the holes, do they just plug and play? Is it that simple with each one? Or is there any adjustments or things I need to be aware of. I will be replacing the speedo, tach, temp, volt, oil pressure, fuel & hour gauges. I'm thinking of the Teleflex Lido models with white background to brighten things up a bit. Any comments?

One of the springs that zeros the gauge is broken. You would still need to open it up which, as mentioned is tricky. Gauge repair is like watch repair at times!

Kirk, Sounds like you had a brief direct short (possibly the solenoid) that pegged the gauge and mechanically stuck it pegged to the max. I would remove the gauge and give it a light tap on the side to see if you can free up the needle. I'd say open it up but they are tough to open up because the cases and faces are held together by swaging the bezel around the case. Some people do do it but it does take lots of finesse. In side you will find a coil that magnetically pulls the needle in ether the charge/discharge positions and a spring mechanism that centers the needle to the middle zero point. If you still can't get the needle freed up, a volt meter replacement may be needed as there aren't to many amp gauges available anymore. Dependant on how particular you are to having all the gauges match, you may consider replacing all of them with a appropriate style. I ended up having to do this with my Tique.