motor mounts and alignment

Thomas, Vibration usually isn't a issue with bad alignment and isn't a good indicator of a problem. Vibration is usually caused by a bent shaft or a bad prop. Lining the coupling up "flat and carefully" without a feeler gauge to measure the max recommended .003" just by eye is tough. You have been lucky. Are you planning on going after the stringers this winter?

use a nicely sharpened wood chisel, usually if you are way out of whack on the alignment the couplings would've seperated once you removed the last bolt so it sounds as if your alignment is close, but check it anyways

In case it was unclear, After nut facing downward on the mount is loosened, the stud/wedge pin needs to be whacked down to release the pin. Then the mount can slide in its bore. same thing on the fronts.

8122pbrainard wrote: Greg, Which new thread? The one you started on your dist/carb? If so, I'm letting the people better than I in that area handle it. I'd probably screw yo up!!!

Greg, Email me via my profile or pbrainard@wistool.com

No sweat Pete...I've done it enough to explain! Any chance your wisdom has an opinion on my newest thread?

Glad you're home safe from wherever!

He means to start at the strut and work forward. The strut is fixed(not easily adjustable), so start by centering the shaft in the strut and then align engine to the shaft. It takes getting a feel for it and it helps to prop the coupler end of the shaft with a V block. You may even need to loosen the connecting hose from the log. Also, that connecting hose may have 'memory' and not want to be where you want it to be.

In a nut shell, prop the front of the shaft(with coupler disco'd) and take a look to see if the shaft is centered in the strut.

good luck, shoot for -.000-

Yes, you loosen up that nut that's just to the left of the mount and then it will move side to side. Sometimes these things get frozen and you may have to really pry it to get it to move. Some people even remove the mount completely to take it apart and lube the spindles so that they are easier to move. If you do that, you'll need to prop up the engine with something braced under the rear end of the exhaust manifold like a bottle jack.

The big nut on the right is just a locking nut. Loosen that up and then the whole threaded rod turns from the square shank up at the top of it. You'll need to make sure that you have both sides loosened up before you try moving it around. Also make sure you loosen up the front mounts on the engine before you try moving the tranny around. All four mounts need to be free to move when you pry it around.

Once you get into it, you'll see it isn't that bad as long as the mounts aren't frozen which many have experienced. If you do end up taking the mounts off to disassemble them on a bench, just put a little anti-seize on the pins and you won't have issues the next time.

Hope this helps you out.