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floor rot under bolts for pylon 73’ naut |
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DrCC 
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Joined: April-12-2004 Location: at home Status: Offline Points: 2867 |
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 Topic: floor rot under bolts for pylon 73’ nautPosted: August-11-2008 at 2:12am |
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Daveawi, The pin is a 1/4" roll pin. Get a hammer and a 1/4" pin punch. It's a real fun trick with the engine in the way.
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8122pbrainard
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Joined: September-14-2006 Location: Three Lakes Wi. Status: Offline Points: 41045 |
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Posted: August-08-2008 at 3:23pm |
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Dave, On a 73, it should just have a 1" pin out the bottom of the aluminum pylon that fits into the socket glassed into the keel. I'm not aware of any cross drilled bolting. Once the floor plate is unbolted, the pylon should pull right out.
Edit: I stand corrected! You may still have the old steel pylon and it may have a cross drilled hole on the bottom with a bolt through it! |
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daveawi
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Joined: August-06-2008 Location: United States Status: Offline Points: 2 |
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Posted: August-08-2008 at 3:05pm |
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Thanks... I do understand the possible dangers of not fixing it properly.
That seems to be the only area of soft material, stringers and floor are sound. When I first purchased the boat 9 yrs ago It had some rotting back by the exhaust in the very poorly designed bilge on the outer planks, not stringers. That was easily resolved with some patience. How do I get the pin out that keeps the bottom of the pylon attached to the keel? |
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8122pbrainard
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Joined: September-14-2006 Location: Three Lakes Wi. Status: Offline Points: 41045 |
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Posted: August-08-2008 at 1:08pm |
Dave, The above comment is worth noting! I hope you know that that the bottom of that pylon isn't fastened to the hull. It's simply a pin in a socket at the keel. |
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Mark Mel
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Joined: September-16-2005 Location: United States Status: Offline Points: 583 |
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Posted: August-08-2008 at 12:41pm |
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I'd hate to imagine what a pylon would do if it let loose with a slalom skier really loading the line. Add the proposed attached plate steel and you will be the master of the flying guillotine.
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8122pbrainard
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Joined: September-14-2006 Location: Three Lakes Wi. Status: Offline Points: 41045 |
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Posted: August-07-2008 at 8:45pm |
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Dave, just as Greg (buffaloBFN) mentioned, you may have other issues to worry about. It's time to check all the wood in the boat! Sorry to welcome you to the site this way but if you do have rot elsewhere, you will damage more than just the pylon mounting. The plate idea is a poor choice if the floor is rotted too. You need to tie into the stringers but what's their condition?
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BuffaloBFN
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Joined: June-24-2007 Location: Gainesville,GA Status: Offline Points: 6094 |
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Posted: August-07-2008 at 6:45pm |
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I sandwiched two good sized plates of aluminum on my last boat; over and under incorporating the 4 welded to the pylon. I didn't do it because of a loose floor though...it was because I didn't like the leverage of an extended pylon.
May be time for floor work! |
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79nautique
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Joined: January-27-2004 Location: United States Status: Offline Points: 7872 |
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Posted: August-07-2008 at 6:35pm |
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if you don't fix the floor once you add the plate you will be in the near future. Stell rust, 303 stainless steel rust, most other stainless steels don't aluminum doesn't either.
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daveawi
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Joined: August-06-2008 Location: United States Status: Offline Points: 2 |
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Posted: August-07-2008 at 5:34pm |
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We had a little issue during our last slalom session. It's like stirring soup with the pylon and the floor is actually bad in the 4" x 4" section were the bolts go thru.
My thought was to get a piece of plate steel either 1/8" or 1/4" x 5" wide and the width between the stringers. Epoxy it to the underside of the floor and use machine fasteners as well. Anyone had a problem like this or any have other ideas? Thanks. Dave |
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Mark Mel wrote: