Painting a Fish Nautique

Well, this weekend barely worked out with the weather, but the boat's gunnel and inside liner are now painted a bright white. Saturday we got a late start and gave it a final wipe down with acetone, then taped it. We sprayed the Brightside and after giving it the first coat, saw a couple of runs and sags. This was due to a part of the gunnels little raised lip on the inside edge having little pockholes that couldn't be filled anymore than they were. The paint wouldn't stick in this area and ran down the top of the gunnel a bit causing a big long run. Saturday morning we sanded this down with 220 and then 400 as well as three other minor runs, and roughed up the whole paint job with scotchbrite, wiped it down with acetone again and gave it a second coat. This time it stuck and doubled up the other paint, laying down perfectly. We are very pleased with the results. How long under normal use should I expect this paint to last? I hope to get at least five years and then will use awlgrip next time after I replace all the stringers and inside guts, as well as a new floor. I will maybe repower it by then too, has anyone replaced or know of someone who has replaced their gas engine for a diesel in the Fish Nautique? I hope to roll the floor this Sunday.
                             Duane and Selena
                             SemperFIsh N Dive

Duane, Interlux will advise to never use Perfection over Brightside or any other one part poly. The solvents uned in Perfection will lift the Brightside. Jerry

SemperFIsh wrote: Does anyone know if I should mix in something else to the one part Brightside (maybe a little of the perfection hardner) to make it a little stronger.) I am looking for just a little more durability but already have the one part paint. If I can't no big deal. Thanks                             Duane and Selena                             SemperFIsh N Dive

Do not mix anything (besides the reducer) into the Brightside. This is especially true with the Perfection hardener. They are two different paint systems that aren't compatible. You would also end up without enough of the Perfection hardener. The mix ratio is critical. Use the complete 2 can kit at one time. The pot life should be at least 3 to 4 hours which is plenty of time to roll, sprinkle in the no skid and re roll. If you don't follow the mix ratio, you will end up with a sticky gooey mess.

The link to part two of the project is: Gigg566 Youtube channeland the video should be up today sometime, (I had to mute the audio because of a copyright issue) so anyways the cracks are so small you can barley see them right above the rubrail, but I strive for perfection, so I filled the it with a light coat of paint, looks good. I am sure that some of the cracks will reappear, that I will get some crackling, blisters, etc... but for the most part the boat will be painted, It will look better than it does now, and will not mildew as bad as it does now from just the rain water hitting it. Does anyone know if I should mix in something else to the one part Brightside (maybe a little of the perfection hardner) to make it a little stronger.) I am looking for just a little more durability but already have the one part paint. If I can't no big deal. It's my first paint job and am really just learning. Also, as a degreaser, before you even touch it with sand paper, what do you use to get all the skin oils off, and a little grease oil, from working around the engine. I want to do that before I start sanding again. Thanks
                            Duane and Selena
                            SemperFIsh N Dive

spider cracks are a result of stress somewhere in the hull causing them, whether it be rot, broken re-enforcements, hitting the dock etc...you have to tackle the reason the cracks are there in the first place and if not they will appear again
when i attack stress cracks i will use a sharpy pen to outline them and v them out and at the end of the crack I will drill a relief hole to stop the crack if for some reason it does re-appear

8122pbrainard,
I first started using Marine-tex to fill in the major cracks, but due to the expense started using spot putty in a big tube and then sprayed a little of the brightside paint on the very top edge of the rubrail to fill in all the fine little cracks. I have been filling and sanding alot prior to a lot of the work done, but have a ways to go. I will spend at least two more days prepping, then shoot it. You should be able to see a little more detail in the second youtube video.

I am first spraying the Brightside paint(white) and after giving it two to three coats, with sanding inbetween, I will then roll the Perfection Paint (2 part). I will first roll my first coat, then shake the sand additive on while still wet with a salt shaker, and after that dries, I will roll a second coat. I believe this is how it is applied.

I drilled several holes when I first started the rebuild for weeping purposes to dry the stringers out. Most of the water was in the bottom. There were some parts of the outside of the wooden stringers that were mush, given the water inside. But, for the most part, 90% of the stringers were there and solid dry wood. I dried out what I could, filled the holes, then sealed it with my fiberglass and bondo job. To make sure the engine got a good bite, I drilled out the lag bolt holes a little and hammered in some plumbers putty that turns rock hard when kneaded together. I first tested this on a regular 4x4 piece of wood and could barely pull it out with a crowbar using all my weight and bending the lag bolt, so I figured with eight holes and the giving motion of the boat in the water, I would be safe. I also put in bigger lag bolts.

I figure I would probably get at least five years of running the boat before I go through a major refit of the whole under structure (I will basically gut the inside stringers and build the whole thing out of something other than wood, a plastic composite substitue, (any suggestions?)) By that time I will be into a house with a real shop where I can copmplete such a project without worry of weather or baking in the summer sun.

You can view part two now. Next week I will post video 3 to show the final T-Top and the paint job, might even have the hardware and teak installed.

I have five days off to paint and get as much done as possible, hope the weather holds out. Thanks.   
                     
                            Duane and Selena
                            SemperFIsh N Dive

Duane,
The 2333 may be too slow for spraying in the high humidity. Be careful of you wet film build as you may get runs or sags with it. I'd personally go with the 2316, reduce it more,(you can reduce the paint more with the 2316 than with the 2333) spray a tack coat, let some of the solvent flash and then the finish coat. If you haven't done a lot of spraying, this 2 part Interlux can be tricky. Just as jerry has mentioned, rolling and tipping isn't a bad way to go. It won't give you the absolute sprayed look but it's safer!!

This weekend I am embarking the task of painting the inside of a 78 FN (see diaries). I have prepped alot, but have a little to go. I am using the Interlux Perfection 2 part with the sand additive for the deck, and have a quart and 1/4 of another of the Interlux Brightside Polyurethane for the tops and sides, both white. I am painting everything inside the rubrail, gunnels, inside hull and deck. I also have the Interlux Interthane 2333N Reducing Solvent for cleanup and thinning. I am going to try to paint in the morning and in low humidity (impossible in FL) and am going to spray the top and sides and roll the bottom. I was wondering if there was anyone who has used these products and if they have tips or mistakes to look out for. You can see the boat at

SemperFIsh N Dive Channel.

I will post the results on that channel in about two weeks or so. Thanks.

                            Duane and Selena
                            SemperFIsh N Dive