Prop change

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   Ron,

I have to say that the most common problem people have with prop installation is binding on the key. This is when the key is out of position causing it to be too high in the keyway and the prop bottoms out on it and not the tapered shaft. The easy way to avoid this is to first dry fit the prop on the shaft without the key. Mark the forward position of the hub on the shaft with some tape or a marker. Now when you install the prop with the key you will know that it is as far forward as it will go and the prop taper is seating on the shaft taper. 

With a new prop, I always recommend checking the fit with some "high spot blue". We are seeing taper finishes (rough and or off taper) that also may need to be lapped. Acme is even recommending lapping in their instruction sheets that come with their props. 

Don't worry about the shorter key. Most of the torque from the shaft to the prop is transmitted through the taper. This of course is when the taper fit is good!

Jimmy,

Thanks for the encouraging words!

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8122pbrainard Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Grand Poobah Joined: September-14-2006 Location: Three Lakes Wi. Status: Offline Points: 41045	Post Options Post Reply Quote 8122pbrainard Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Topic: Prop change Posted: October-29-2008 at 8:13am
	Ron, I have to say that the most common problem people have with prop installation is binding on the key. This is when the key is out of position causing it to be too high in the keyway and the prop bottoms out on it and not the tapered shaft. The easy way to avoid this is to first dry fit the prop on the shaft without the key. Mark the forward position of the hub on the shaft with some tape or a marker. Now when you install the prop with the key you will know that it is as far forward as it will go and the prop taper is seating on the shaft taper. With a new prop, I always recommend checking the fit with some "high spot blue". We are seeing taper finishes (rough and or off taper) that also may need to be lapped. Acme is even recommending lapping in their instruction sheets that come with their props. Don't worry about the shorter key. Most of the torque from the shaft to the prop is transmitted through the taper. This of course is when the taper fit is good! Jimmy, Thanks for the encouraging words!
	54 Atom 77 Tique 64 X55 Dunphy Keep it original, Pete <

Towman Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Groupie Joined: June-22-2006 Location: United States Status: Offline Points: 76	Post Options Post Reply Quote Towman Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: October-28-2008 at 3:03am
	Do a search on prop taper you might find my post on loosing a brand new 540.You need to do alot more then just cleaning the shaft and tightening the nut.Find the posts by Pete he is the shaft pro Do not run this prop until you reinstall it correctly.It was a expensive error for me,but you will be impressed by the 540.

Bigcity Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Newbie Joined: November-29-2007 Location: Canada Status: Offline Points: 28	Post Options Post Reply Quote Bigcity Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: October-27-2008 at 9:04pm
	Just in the process of putting away my baby for the winter.Completely cleaned and waxed and will have my local dealer winterize and tune up ready for spring tomorrow. Swapped out my prop and installed a new Acme 540 on the weekend. Used the puller kit I purchased from Acme tightened and tightened and tightened some more ( didn't think it would be that hard) and used rubber mallet on shaft to vibrate lose. When I installed just cleaned shaft used new brass key( it was slightly shorter) and re-used crown nut as the new one provided didn't have slots for the cotterpin. Insert key and pushed prop on as far as it would go then tighten nut until cotter pin could be installed. Hopefully I have set the prop on properly?
	BIGCITY My Baby !!

Prop change

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