Alignment...but now Thud, Thud

CCFcourt - It sounds like your stringers are shot. You can verify this in several ways, torque test of engine lag screws into stringers, or drill core holes near the hull.

I don't think anyone on this site will encourage you to replace only the stringer near the engine (this is called 'sistering'). That will not very strong & will do nothing about the remaining 80% of your stringers which are also rotting.

As much as you don't want to, it's best to fix it correctly now. Waiting will just degrade your classic Correct Craft rapidly (cracking the gel coat on the sides, wearing out your transmission) making it even more expensive in the long run.

There is much information covering stringers on this site, get a cup of coffee & start the search engine up!

PS - You can rent an engine hoist at any rental store, maybe even auto part stores.

I would think a incorrectly sized bushing would be unusual.   I replaced the bushings last year (SKIDIM's) & they had a couple thou clearance to the shaft.   A higher probability is that somehow they distorted the bore, either through heat or pressure.

Maybe someone else will have more experience on this symptom & can give you an exact remedy.

I'd say that the strut or shaft or both have to come off but you could work on your alignment first; then you will know where you are at before reassembly.

CCF - I think you will need to rough align your strut to your log & transmission.   You don't need to pull your coupling to do that. You will have to disconnect it from the tranny, though.

Here is a thread explaining this concept:


Strut Alignmnet

You may have to enlarge the mounting hole in your hull or add washers (stainless of course) to one end of the strut base to get it to be centered in your log & get close to your tranny's coupling.

Did you try the shaft fit before you mounted the strut? If the shaft doesn't spin freely up when the strut is loose, then there is something wrong with the bushings.

So I sent the strut to Murphys Propeller in VA since the rebuild was going to be 40% the cost of a new one (incl shipping). I got the strut back. They told me they straightened it so - despite it still visually looking a little tilted to this untrained eye - I put it back on the shaft to see where I'm at. It was much harder to get back on the shaft even after putting some water in it than it was to get it off because of the new bushing inside. When I dry fitted it and tightened it up, the shaft is extremely difficult to turn. When I loosen the back bolts of the strut it becomes a little easier to turn.

I expect the response to be, did you check the shaft. I tried to get it free from the coupling but it wasn't budging so I haven't checked the shaft yet.

Questions:
1. Is it normal to have a new bushing make the shaft very difficult to turn, especially when in a driveway and not in water? Is there any adjustment to set screws that needs to be done?

2. If checking the shaft really is required (duh, how can you be sure otherwise, right?) then what's the best way to get the coupling free? I had bought a cheap bolt puller set and tried to get it off that way, but had to cut the bolt in half to make it fit in the space and now have a sharp pointed area of the primary bolt taking all the pressure instead of a large smooth area. Maybe there is a better, less destructive way...

3. Am I on the right track or is it time to haul to a mechanic for an alignment? Not quitting yet, but wondering if I'm getting beyond my pay grade since it's also possible that the hull isn't formed right anymore due to previous repair (can't tell for sure, but looking at strut area inside boat it isn't level and spacers of uneven sizes had been used for the strut bolts).

Court: This was my post. Try this not sure if it will work.

http://www.correctcraftfan.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=10322&KW=new+owner+problem

I just went threw the same thing. Luckily mine came relative easy. I used a screw driver and from the inside of the boat i catch the edge and tap it until it came out. My strut was in pretty bad shape. Somebody suggested Murphy's Propeller and I was extremely pleased with their job. They charged me $65 to get it straight. Also, I had them replace the strut bearing since I stripped the set screw. If you can't find anybody locally called them. They were really nice and the turn around was about a week. The communication with them was great.

After messing around with a few different methods, including a weak attempt at using some wire and wood chisel, I ended up going pretty basic. I used a knife to cut out as much of the adhesive as I could all around the base plate and then used a flathead screwdriver (very tip already broken off so slightly stronger) and continued to work around the edges until it started to come loose. The risk with this method of course is chipping the fiberglass of the hull but I went slowly and eventually it came off. Don't think this is a best practice of any sort but I'm hoping I don't have to do this so many times that I develop one soon!

I'll look into repair/replacement and see what I can find...

CCFcourt - That looks exactly like mine did!

It can be straightened. Others will pipe in with a good source, I am sure. I just got a new one from SkiDim & will have my bent one straightened some day for a spare.

You might want to check the strut mounting area inside & out for hairline cracks. Mine had some. Now is the time to fix them.

Good Luck!

Court - You also should check your shaft for straightness. It will be a PIA to remove it for measuring but you already have a repair job going so there is no reason not to be thorough now.

I got those crappy hose clamps cut and pulled the stuffing box hose up to see the shaft coming out of the log. It turns out the shaft turns best in the strut when sitting right on the bottom of the log slightly pressed into it. I think this is the source of the problem; I have no margin between the shaft in the log (right on the bottom) and the shaft in the strut (coming out right at the top, going forward). My thinking is that I need to take the strut off to have it looked at or at least try reseating it. It looks like it had been previously glued in. I unscrewed the bolts, but the strut isn't budging.

Am I going down the right road and how in the world do I get the strut loose?

boat dr wrote: The winter here is So Brutal..... .Billy/Karen

I'll bet Billy that the temps must get down to GL summer temps? Last weekend it was 70 out here,today it's 32

A word for the Dr. Your value to me is alo to include your vocabulary with the Southern humor. The well gone dry?
bj

Court,
The dampener isn't just a noise problem - it's the power transmission coupling between the engine and the trans! It must be looked at and for $100 put in a new one.

This is a easy project and doesn't require a hoist. Do a search for transmission removal and look for threads using two bottle jacks under the exhaust manifolds to tilt the aft end of the engine up.

at least when Hollywood is within 2 miles of my shop he stops by....we'll meet someday John

A Monday visit? come around lunch and you can buy   lol, I'll buy