S-pipe

Twisting is key, also sticking a nice long screwdriver between the hose and the S pipe and muffler inlet helps break the seal too. I used binding lube generously to lube the parts for reassembly.

Any suggestions about how to take the S-pipe off or put it on? When something seems obvious to me, it seems that it's more difficult than I thought and I missed a step to make it easier. Will the hoses slip on easily or should I use something like soap to help it slip on. I understand that there is a torque driver designed for hose clamps to avoid overtightening.

winniskier wrote: I had not thought about trying to fix it. It is cracked and leaks under where the hose clamp was overtighted. Seems to me that it would be vunerable to cracking again even after the fiberglass repair. Another thought would be to saw off the damaged portion so there is a clean strong rim and use a longer hose from the riser. Comments?

I had that exact same scenario. The hose clamp was overtightened, and perhaps at some point somebody let it run too hot, and it was cracked right there. I tried to slide the rubber exhaust hose between the riser and the down tube down a bit so that the clamps could grab some non-cracked tube. It did work but it still really bothered me that it was cracked, so I ordered a new one from Woody at SWCC. For 80.00, I figured it's probably literally the cheapest OEM part on the whole boat so I had them ship me a new one. I figured I had gotten out easy for an OEM CC part. Each side is a different part number.

And yes, cutting it and getting a longer hose would probably work but I thought it would look funny, etc. For 80, again, I just got the new part, which was refreshing.

Wish I had one to send you.

Jim,
Do you have the old one? How about repairing it?